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crowd into a cable car； dressed as they were； has always been a marvel to
me。 A landau and two liveried servants would barely have been in keeping
with their appearance。
Not long ago； a great English nobleman； who is also famous in the
yachting world； visited this country accompanied by his two daughters；
high…bred and genial ladies。 No self…respecting American shop girl or
fashionable typewriter would have condescended to appear in the
inexpensive attire which those English women wore。 Wherever one met
them； at dinner； FETE； or ball； they were always the most simply dressed
women in the room。 I wonder if it ever occurred to any of their gorgeously
attired hostesses； that it was because their transatlantic guests were so sure
of their position； that they contented themselves with such simple toilets
knowing that nothing they might wear could either improve or alter their
standing
In former ages； sumptuary laws were enacted by parental governments；
in the hope of suppressing extravagance in dress； the state of affairs we
deplore now； not being a new development of human weakness； but as old
as wealth。
The desire to shine by the splendor of one's trappings is the first idea
of the parvenu； especially here in this country； where the ambitious are
denied the pleasure of acquiring a title； and where official rank carries
with it so little social weight。 Few more striking ways present themselves
to the crude and half…educated for the expenditure of a new fortune than
the purchase of sumptuous apparel； the satisfaction being immediate and
material。 The wearer of a complete and perfect toilet must experience a
delight of which the uninitiated know nothing； for such cruel sacrifices are
made and so many privations endured to procure this satisfaction。 When I
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see groups of women； clad in the latest designs of purple and fine linen；
stand shivering on street corners of a winter night； until they can crowd
into a car； I doubt if the joy they get from their clothes； compensates them
for the creature comforts they are forced to forego； and I wonder if it never
occurs to them to spend less on their wardrobes and so feel they can afford
to return from a theatre or concert comfortably； in a cab； as a foreign
woman； with their income would do。
There is a stoical determination about the American point of view that
compels a certain amount of respect。 Our countrywomen will deny
themselves pleasures； will economize on their food and will remain in
town during the summer； but when walking abroad they must be clad in
the best； so that no one may know by their appearance if the income be
counted by hundreds or thousands。
While these standards prevail and the female mind is fixed on this
subject with such dire intent； it is not astonishing that a weaker sister is
occasionally tempted beyond her powers of resistance。 Nor that each day a
new case of a well…dressed woman thieving in a shop reaches our ears。
The poor feeble…minded creature is not to blame。 She is but the reflexion
of the minds around her and is probably like the lady Emerson tells of；
who confessed to him 〃that the sense of being perfectly well…dressed had
given her a feeling of inward tranquillity which religion was powerless to
bestow。〃
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CHAPTER 5 … On Some Gilded
Misalliances
A DEAR old American lady； who lived the greater part of her life in
Rome； and received every body worth knowing in her spacious drawing…
rooms； far up in the dim vastnesses of a Roman palace； used to say that
she had only known one really happy marriage made by an American girl
abroad。
In those days； being young and innocent； I considered that remark
cynical； and in my heart thought nothing could be more romantic and
charming than for a fair compatriot to assume an historic title and retire to
her husband's estates； and rule smilingly over him and a devoted tenantry；
as in the last act of a comic opera； when a rose… colored light is burning
and the orchestra plays the last brilliant chords of a wedding march。
There seemed to my perverted sense a certain poetic justice about the
fact that money； gained honestly but prosaically； in groceries or gas；
should go to regild an ancient blazon or prop up the crumbling walls of
some stately palace abroad。
Many thoughtful years and many cruel realities have taught me that
my gracious hostess of the 〃seventies〃 was right； and that marriage under
these conditions is apt to be much more like the comic opera after the
curtain has been rung down； when the lights are out； the applauding public
gone home； and the weary actors brought slowly back to the present and
the positive； are wondering how they are to pay their rent or dodge the
warrant in ambush around the corner。
International marriages usually come about from a deficient
knowledge of the world。 The father becomes rich； the family travel abroad；
some mutual friend （often from purely interested motives） produces a
suitor for the hand of the daughter； in the shape of a 〃prince〃 with a title
that makes the whole simple American family quiver with delight。
After a few visits the suitor declares himself； the girl is flattered； the
father loses his head； seeing visions of his loved daughter hob…nobbing
with royalty； and （intoxicating thought！） snubbing the 〃swells〃 at home
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who had shown reluctance to recognize him and his family。
It is next to impossible for him to get any reliable information about
his future son…in…law in a country where； as an American； he has few
social relations； belongs to no club； and whose idiom is a sealed book to
him。 Every circumstance conspires to keep the flaws on the article for sale
out of sight and place the suitor in an advantageous light。 Several weeks'
〃courting〃 follows； paterfamilias agrees to part with a handsome share of
his earnings； and a marriage is 〃arranged。〃
In the case where the girl has retained some of her self…respect the
suitor is made to come to her country for the ceremony。 And； that the
contrast between European ways and our simple habits may not be too
striking； an establishment is hastily got together； with hired liveries and
new…bought carriages； as in a recent case in this state。 The sensational
papers write up this 〃international union；〃 and publish 〃faked〃 portraits of
the bride and her noble spouse。 The sovereign of the groom's country
（enchanted that some more American money is to be imported into his
land） sends an economical present and an autograph letter。 The act ends。
Limelight and slow music！
In a few years rumors of dissent and trouble float vaguely back to the
girl's family。 Finally； either a great scandal occurs； and there is one
dishonored home the more in the world； or an expatriated woman；
thousands of miles from the friends and relatives who might be of some
comfort to her； makes up her mind to accept 〃anything〃 for the sake of her
children； and attempts to build up some sort of an existence out of the
remains of her lost illusions； and the father wakes up from his dream to
realize that his wealth has only served to ruin what he loved best in all the
world。
Sometimes the conditions are delightfully comic； as in a well…known
case； where the daughter； who married into an indolent； happy…go… lucky
Italian family； had inherited her father's business push and energy along
with his fortune； and immediately set about 〃running〃 her husband's estate
as she had seen her father do his bank。 She tried to revive a half…forgotten
industry in the district； scraped and whitewashed t