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Worldly Ways and Byways
CHAPTER 4 … The Outer and the
Inner Woman
IT is a sad commentary on our boasted civilization that cases of
shoplifting occur more and more frequently each year； in which the
delinquents are women of education and refinement； or at least belong to
families and occupy positions in which one would expect to find those
qualities！ The reason； however； is not difficult to discover。
In the wake of our hasty and immature prosperity has come （as it does
to all suddenly enriched societies） a love of ostentation； a desire to dazzle
the crowd by displays of luxury and rich trappings indicative of crude and
vulgar standards。 The newly acquired money； instead of being expended
for solid comforts or articles which would afford lasting satisfaction； is
lavished on what can be worn in public； or the outer shell of display； while
the home table and fireside belongings are neglected。 A glance around our
theatres； or at the men and women in our crowded thoroughfares； is
sufficient to reveal to even a casual observer that the mania for fine clothes
and what is costly； PER SE； has become the besetting sin of our day and
our land。
The tone of most of the papers and of our theatrical advertisements
reflects this feeling。 The amount of money expended for a work of art or a
new building is mentioned before any comment as to its beauty or fitness。
A play is spoken of as 〃Manager So and So's thirty…thousand…dollar
production！〃 The fact that a favorite actress will appear in four different
dresses during the three acts of a comedy； each toilet being a special
creation designed for her by a leading Parisian house； is considered of
supreme importance and is dwelt upon in the programme as a special
attraction。
It would be astonishing if the taste of our women were different；
considering the way clothes are eternally being dangled before their eyes。
Leading papers publish illustrated supplements devoted exclusively to the
subject of attire； thus carrying temptation into every humble home； and
suggesting unattainable luxuries。 Windows in many of the larger shops
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Worldly Ways and Byways
contain life…sized manikins loaded with the latest costly and ephemeral
caprices of fashion arranged to catch the eye of the poorer class of women；
who stand in hundreds gazing at the display like larks attracted by a mirror！
Watch those women as they turn away； and listen to their sighs of
discontent and envy。 Do they not tell volumes about petty hopes and
ambitions？
I do not refer to the wealthy women whose toilets are in keeping with
their incomes and the general footing of their households； that they should
spend more or less in fitting themselves out daintily is of little importance。
The point where this subject becomes painful is in families of small means
where young girls imagine that to be elaborately dressed is the first
essential of existence； and； in consequence； bend their labors and their
intelligence towards this end。 Last spring I asked an old friend where she
and her daughters intended passing their summer。 Her answer struck me as
being characteristic enough to quote： 〃We should much prefer；〃 she said；
〃returning to Bar Harbor； for we all enjoy that place and have many
friends there。 But the truth is； my daughters have bought themselves very
little in the way of toilet this year； as our finances are not in a flourishing
condition。 So my poor girls will be obliged to make their last year's
dresses do for another season。 Under these circumstances； it is out of the
question for us to return a second summer to the same place。〃
I do not know how this anecdote strikes my readers。 It made me
thoughtful and sad to think that； in a family of intelligent and practical
women； such a reason should be considered sufficient to outweigh
enjoyment； social relations； even health； and allowed to change the plans
of an entire family。
As American women are so fond of copying English ways they should
be willing to take a few lessons on the subject of raiment from across the
water。 As this is not intended to be a dissertation on 〃How to Dress Well
on Nothing a Year；〃 and as I feel the greatest diffidence in approaching a
subject of which I know absolutely nothing； it will be better to sheer off
from these reefs and quicksands。 Every one who reads these lines will
know perfectly well what is meant； when reference is made to the good
sense and practical utility of English women's dress。
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Worldly Ways and Byways
What disgusts and angers me （when my way takes me into our surface
or elevated cars or into ferry boats and local trains） is the utter dissonance
between the outfit of most of the women I meet and their position and
occupation。 So universal is this； that it might almost be laid down as an
axiom； that the American woman； no matter in what walk of life you
observe her； or what the time or the place； is always persistently and
grotesquely overdressed。 From the women who frequent the hotels of our
summer or winter resorts； down all the steps of the social staircase to the
char…woman； who consents （spasmodically） to remove the dust and waste…
papers from my office； there seems to be the same complete disregard of
fitness。 The other evening； in leaving my rooms； I brushed against a portly
person in the half…light of the corridor。 There was a shimmer of （what
appeared to my inexperienced eyes as） costly stuffs； a huge hat crowned
the shadow itself； 〃topped by nodding plumes；〃 which seemed to account
for the depleted condition of my feather duster。
I found on inquiring of the janitor； that the dressy person I had met；
was the char…woman in street attire； and that a closet was set aside in the
building； for the special purpose of her morning and evening
transformations； which she underwent in the belief that her social position
in Avenue A would suffer； should she appear in the streets wearing
anything less costly than seal…skin and velvet or such imitations of those
expensive materials as her stipend would permit。
I have as tenants of a small wooden house in Jersey City； a bank clerk；
his wife and their three daughters。 He earns in the neighborhood of fifteen
hundred dollars a year。 Their rent （with which； by the way； they are always
in arrears） is three hundred dollars。 I am favored spring and autumn by a
visit from the ladies of that family； in the hope （generally futile） of
inducing me to do some ornamental papering or painting in their residence；
subjects on which they have by experience found my agent to be
unapproachable。 When those four women descend upon me； I am fairly
dazzled by the splendor of their attire； and lost in wonder as to how the
price of all that finery can have been squeezed out of the twelve remaining
hundreds of their income。 When I meet the father he is shabby to the outer
limits of the genteel。 His hat has； I am sure； supported the suns and
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snowstorms of a dozen seasons。 There is a threadbare shine on his apparel
that suggests a heartache in each whitened seam； but the ladies are mirrors
of fashion； as well as moulds of form。 What can remain for any creature
comforts after all those fine clothes have been paid for？ And how much is
put away for the years when the long…suffering money maker will be past
work； or saved towards the time when sickness or accident shall appear on
the horizon？ How those ladies had the 〃nerve〃 to enter a ferry boat or
crowd into a cable car； dressed as they were； has always been a marvel to
me。 A