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a marvellously handsome couple to follow the two dowdy little sovereigns
who preceded them。 The writer had by bribery succeeded in getting places
in an ENTRESOL window under the archway； and was greatly impressed
to see those four great ones laughing and joking together over Eugenie's
trouble in getting her hoops into the narrow chair！
What changes have come to that laughing group！ Two are dead； one
dying in exile and disgrace； and it would be hard to find in the two
rheumatic old ladies whom one sees pottering about the Riviera now； any
trace of those smiling wives。 In France it is as if a tidal wave had swept
over Napoleon's court。 Only the old palace stood severely back from the
Champs Elysees； as if guarding its souvenirs。 The pick of the mason has
brought down the proud gateway which its imperial builder fondly
imagined was to last for ages。 The Tuileries preceded it into oblivion。 The
Alpha and Omega of that gorgeous pageant of the fifties vanished like a
mirage！
It is not here alone one finds Paris changing。 A railway is being
brought along the quais with its depot at the Invalides。 Another is to find
its terminus opposite the Louvre； where the picturesque ruin of the Cour
des Comptes has stood half…hidden by the trees since 1870。 A line of
electric cars crosses the Rond Point； in spite of the opposition of all the
neighborhood； anxious to keep； at least that fine perspective free from
such desecration。 And； last but not least； there is every prospect of an
immense system of elevated railways being inaugurated in connection
with the coming world's fair。 The direction of this kind of improvement is
entirely in the hands of the Municipal Council； and that body has become
（here in Paris） extremely radical； not to say communistic； and takes
pleasure in annoying the inhabitants of the richer quarters of the city；
under pretext of improvements and facilities of circulation。
It is easy to see how strong the feeling is against the aristocratic class。
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Nor is it much to be wondered at！ The aristocracy seem to try to make
themselves unpopular。 They detest the republic； which has shorn them of
their splendor； and do everything in their power （socially and
diplomatically their power is still great） to interfere with and frustrate the
plans of the government。 Only last year they seized an opportunity at the
funerals of the Duchesse d'Alencon and the Duc d'Aumale to make a
royalist manifestation of the most pronounced character。 The young
Duchesse d'Orleans was publicly spoken of and treated as the 〃Queen of
France；〃 at the private receptions given during her stay in Paris the same
ceremonial was observed as if she had been really on the throne。 The
young Duke； her husband； was not present； being in exile as a pretender；
but armorial bearings of the 〃reigning family；〃 as their followers insist on
calling them； were hung around the Madeleine and on the funeral…cars of
both the illustrious dead。
The government is singularly lenient to the aristocrats。 If a poor man
cries 〃Long live the Commune！〃 in the street； he is arrested。 The police；
however； stood quietly by and let a group of the old nobility shout 〃Long
live the Queen！〃 as the train containing the young Duchesse d'Orleans
moved out of the station。 The secret of this leniency toward the
〃pretenders〃 to the throne； is that they are very little feared。 If it amuses a
set of wealthy people to play at holding a court； the strong government of
the republic cares not one jot。 The Orleans family have never been popular
in France； and the young pretender's marriage to an Austrian Archduchess
last year has not improved matters。
It is the fashion in the conservative Faubourg St。 Germain； to ridicule
the President； his wife and their bourgeois surroundings； as forty years ago
the parents of these aristocrats affected to despise the imperial
PARVENUS。 The swells amused themselves during the official visit of the
Emperor and Empress of Russia last year （which was gall and wormwood
to them） by exaggerating and repeating all the small slips in etiquette that
the President； an intelligent； but simple…mannered gentleman； was
supposed to have made during the sojourn of his imperial guests。
Both M。 and Mme。 Faure are extremely popular with the people； and
are heartily cheered whenever they are seen in public。 The President is the
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despair of the lovers of routine and etiquette； walking in and out of his
Palais of the Elysee； like a private individual； and breaking all rules and
regulations。 He is fond of riding； and jogs off to the Bois of a morning
with no escort； and often of an evening drops in at the theatres in a casual
way。 The other night at the Francais he suddenly appeared in the FOYER
DES ARTISTES （A beautiful greenroom； hung with historical portraits of
great actors and actresses； one of the prides of the theatre） in this informal
manner。 Mme。 Bartet； who happened to be there alone at the time； was so
impressed at such an unprecedented event that she fainted； and the
President had to run for water and help revive her。 The next day he sent
the great actress a beautiful vase of Sevres china； full of water； in souvenir。
To a lover of old things and old ways any changes in the Paris he has
known and loved are a sad trial。 Henri Drumont； in his delightful MON
VIEUX PARIS； deplores this modern mania for reform which has done
such good work in the new quarters but should； he thinks； respect the
historic streets and shady squares。
One naturally feels that the sights familiar in youth lose by being
transformed and doubts the necessity of such improvements。
The Rome of my childhood is no more！ Half of Cairo was ruthlessly
transformed in sixty…five into a hideous caricature of modern Paris。 Milan
has been remodelled； each city losing in charm as it gained in
convenience。
So far Paris has held her own。 The spirit of the city has not been lost；
as in the other capitals。 The fair metropolis of France； in spite of many
transformations； still holds her admirers with a dominating sway。 She
pours out for them a strong elixir that once tasted takes the flavor out of
existence in other cities and makes her adorers； when in exile； thirst for
another draught of the subtle nectar。
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CHAPTER 25 … Contentment
AS the result of certain ideal standards adopted among us when this
country was still in long clothes； a time when the equality of man was the
new 〃fad〃 of many nations； and the prizes of life first came within the
reach of those fortunate or unscrupulous enough to seize them； it became
the fashion （and has remained so down to our day） to teach every little boy
attending a village school to look upon himself as a possible future
President； and to assume that every girl was preparing herself for the
position of first lady in the land。 This is very well in theory； and practice
has shown that； as Napoleon said； 〃Every private may carry a marshal's
baton in his knapsack。〃 Alongside of the good such incentive may produce；
it is only fair； however； to consider also how much harm may lie in this
way of presenting life to a child's mind。
As a first result of such tall talking we find in America； more than in
any other country； an inclination among all classes to leave the
surroundings where they were born and bend their energies to struggling
out of the position in life occupied by their parents。 There are not wanting
theorists who hold that this is a quality in a nation； and that it leads to
great results。 A proposition open to discussion。
It is doubtless satisfactory to designate