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civil； military； and diplomatic officials are present； and a
new…comer finds much difficulty in remembering their names。 There
are said to be four hundred Princes Galitzin in the empire； and I
personally knew three Counts Tolstoi who did not know each other；
but the great drawback is the fact that all these entertainments
are exactly alike； always the same thing： merely civil and
military functionaries and their families； and for strangers no
occupation save to dance； play cards； talk futilities； or simply
stare。
The Berlin court； though by no means so brilliant at first sight
and far smaller；since the most I ever saw in any gathering in
the Imperial Schloss at the German capital was about fifteen
hundred；was really much more attractive； its greater interest
arising from the presence of persons distinguished in every
field。 While at St。 Petersburg one meets only civil and military
functionaries； at Berlin one meets not only these； but the most
prominent men in politics； science； literature； art； and the
higher ranges of agriculture； commerce； and manufacture。 At St。
Petersburg； when I wished to meet such men； who added to the
peaceful glories of the empire； I went to their houses in the
university quarter； at Berlin I met them also at court。
As to court episodes during my stay； one especially dwells in my
memory。 On arriving rather early one evening； I noticed a large；
portly man； wearing the broad red ribbon of the Legion of Honor；
and at once saw that he could be no other than Prince Victor
Napoleon； the Bonaparte heir to the crown of France。 Though he
was far larger than the great Napoleon； and had the eyes of his
mother； Princess Clothilde； his likeness to his father； Prince
Napoleon （〃Plon…Plon〃）； whom I had seen years before at Paris；
was very marked。 Presently his brother； who had just arrived from
his regiment in the Caucasus； came up and began conversation with
him。 Both seemed greatly vexed at something。 On the arrival of
the Italian ambassador； he naturally went up and spoke to the
prince； who was the grandson of King Victor Emmanuel； but the
curious thing was that the French ambassador； Count de
Montebello； and the prince absolutely cut each other。 Neither
seemed to have the remotest idea that the other was in the room；
and this in spite of the fact that the Montebellos are descended
from Jean Lannes； the stable…boy whom Napoleon made a marshal of
France and Duke of Montebello； thus founding the family to which
the French ambassador belonged。 The show of coolness on the part
of the imperial family evidently vexed the French pretender。 He
was； indeed； allowed to enter the room behind the imperial train；
but he was not permitted to sit at the imperial table； being
relegated to a distant and very modest seat。 I was informed that；
though the Emperor could； and did； have the prince to dine with
him in private； he felt obliged； in view of the relations between
Russia and the French Republic； to carefully avoid any special
recognition of him in public。
A far more brilliant visitor was the Ameer of Bokhara。 I have
already spoken of the way in which he was placed upon the throne
by General Annenkof。 He now came to visit the Czar as his
suzerain； and with him came his eldest son and a number of his
great men。 The satrap himself was a singular combination of
splendor and stoicism； wearing a gorgeous dress covered with
enormous jewels； and observing the brilliant scenes about him
with hardly ever a word。 Even when he took his place at the table
beside the Empress he was very uncommunicative。 Facing the
imperial table sat his great men； and their embarrassment was
evident； one special source of it being clearly their small
acquaintance with European table utensils。 The Ameer brought to
St。 Petersburg splendid presents of gold and jewels； after the
Oriental fashion； and also the heir to his throne； whom he left
as a sort of hostage to be educated at the capital。
An eminent Russian who was in very close relations with the Ameer
gave me some account of this young man。 Although he was then
perhaps fourteen or fifteen years of age； he was； as regards
conduct； a mere baby； bursting out into loud boohooing the first
time he was presented to the Emperor； and showing himself very
immature in various ways。 Curiously enough； when he was taken to
the cadet school he was found to be unable to walk for any
considerable distance。 He had always been made to squat and be
carried； and the first thing to be done toward making him a
Russian officer was to train him in using his legs。 He took an
especial fancy to bicycles： in the park attached to the cadet
school he became very proficient in the use of them； and；
returning to Bokhara at his first vacation； he took with him； not
only a bicycle for himself； but another for his brother。 Shortly
after his home…coming； the Ameer and court being assembled； he
gave a display of his powers； but； to his great mortification；
the Ameer was disgusted： the idea that the heir to the throne
should be seen working his way in this fashion was contrary to
all the ideas of that potentate； and he ordered the bicycles to
be at once destroyed。 But on the young man's return to St。
Petersburg he bought another； resumed his exercises upon it； and
will； no doubt； when he comes to the throne； introduce that form
of locomotion into the Mohammedan regions of Northern Asia。
Among the greater displays of my final year were a wedding and a
funeral。 The former was that of the Emperor's eldest daughter；
the Grand Duchess Xenia； at Peterhof。 It was very brilliant； and
was conducted after the usual Russian fashion； its most curious
features being the leading of the couple about the altar and
their drinking out of the same cup。
Coming from the ceremony in the chapel； we of the diplomatic
corps found ourselves； at the foot of the great staircase； in a
crush。 But just at the side was a large door of plate…glass
opening upon an outer gallery communicating with other parts of
the palace； and standing guard at this door was one of the
〃Nubians〃 whom I had noticed； from time to time； at the Winter
Palacean enormous creature； very black； very glossy； with the
most brilliant costume possible。 I had heard much of these
〃Nubians；〃 and had been given to understand that they had been
brought from Central Africa by special command。 At great
assemblages in the imperial palaces； just before the doors were
flung open for the entrance of the Majesties and their cortege；
two great black hands were always to be seen put through the
doors； ready to open them in an instantthe hands of two of
these 〃Nubians。〃 I had built up in my mind quite a structure of
romance regarding them； and now found myself in the crush at the
foot of the grand staircase near one of them。 As I looked up at
him he said to me； with deferential compassion； 〃If you please；
sah； would n't you like to git out of de crowd； sah； through dis
yere doah？〃 By his dialect he was evidently one of my own
compatriots； and； though in a sort of daze at this discovery； I
mechanically accepted his invitation； whereupon he opened the
door； let us through； and kept back the crowd。
Splendid； too； in its way； was the funeral of the Grand Duchess
Catherine at the Fortress Church。 It was very impressive； almost
as much so as the funeral of the Emperor Nicholas； which I had
attended at the same place nearly forty years before。 The Emperor
Alexander III； with his brothers； had followed the hearse and
coffin on foot； and his Majesty was evidently greatly fatigued。
Soon he retired to take rest； and then it was that we began to
have the first suspicion of his fatal illness。 Up to that time
there had been skepticism。 Very few had thought it possible that
a man of such giant frame and strength could be seriously ill；
but now there could be no doubt of it。 Standing near him； I
noticed his pallor and evident fatigue； and was not surprised
that he twice left the place； in order； evidently； to secure
rest。 There was need of it。 In the Russian Church the rule is
that all must stand； and all of us stood from about ten in the
morning until half…past one in the afternoon； but two high
officials covered with gold lace and orders； bearing tapers by
the side of the grand duchess's coffin； toppled over from
exhaustion and were removed。
As to