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enough not to believe everything I see in the newspapers。〃
I quieted him as best I could； but on returning to his hotel he
indulged in some very boisterous conduct； one of the minor
features of which was throwing water in the faces of the waiters；
so that； fearing lest actions like this and his loud utterances
regarding the Emperor and Empress might get him into trouble； I
wrote a friendly letter to the prefect of St。 Petersburg； stating
the case； and asking that； if it was thought best to arrest the
man； he should be placed in some comfortable retreat for the
insane and be well cared for until I could communicate with his
friends in America。 Accordingly； a day or two afterward； a
handsome carriage drove up to the door of his hotel； bearing two
kindly gentlemen； who invited him to accompany them。 Taking it
for granted that he was to be escorted to the palace to meet his
Majesty； he went without making any objections； and soon found
himself in commodious rooms and most kindly treated。
It being discovered that he was an excellent pianist； a grand
piano was supplied him； and he was very happy in his musical
practice； and in the thought that he was lodged in the palace and
would soon communicate his message to the Emperor。 At various
times I called upon him and found him convinced that his great
mission would soon be accomplished； but after a week or ten days
he began to have doubts； and said to me that he distrusted the
Russians and would prefer to go on and deliver a message with
which he was charged to the Emperor of China。 On my showing him
sundry difficulties； he said that at any rate there was one place
where he would certainly be well receivedMarlborough House in
London； that he was sure the Prince of Wales would welcome him
heartily。 At last； means having been obtained from his friends； I
sought to forward him from St。 Petersburg； but； as no steamers
thence would take a lunatic； I sent my private secretary with him
to Helsingfors； and thence secured his passage to America。
A very curious feature in the case； as told me afterward by a
gentleman who traveled in the same steamer； was that this
American delighted the company day after day with his music； and
that no one ever saw anything out of the way in his utterances or
conduct。 He seemed to have forgotten all about his great missions
and to have become absorbed in his piano。
Among the things to which special and continued attention had to
be given by the legation was the Chicago Exposition。 I was
naturally desirous to see it a success； indeed； it was my duty to
do everything possible to promote it。 The magnificent plans which
the Chicago people had developed and were carrying out with such
wonderful energy interested thinking Russians。 But presently came
endeavors which might easily have brought the whole enterprise
into disrepute； for some of the crankish persons who always hang
on the skirts of such enterprises had been allowed to use
official stationery； and they had begun writing letters； and even
instructions； to American diplomatic agents abroad。
The first of these which attracted my attention was one
requesting me to ask the Empress to write a book in the shape of
a 〃Report on Women's Work in Russia；〃 careful instructions being
given as to how and at what length she must write it。
A letter also came from one of these quasi…officials at Chicago；
not requesting； but instructing； me to ask the Emperor to report
to his bureau on the condition of the empire； funnily enough；
this 〃instruction〃 was evidently one of several； and they had
been ground out so carelessly that the one which I was instructed
to deliver to the Emperor was addressed to the 〃King of Holland。〃
It was thus made clear that this important personage at Chicago；
who usurped the functions of the Secretary of State； had not even
taken the trouble to find out that there was no such person as a
〃King of Holland；〃 the personage whom he vaguely had in mind
being； no doubt； the Queen Regent of the Netherlands。
Soon there followed another of these quasi…instructions； showing
another type of crankishness。 Beginning with the weighty
statement that 〃the school…boys of every country are the future
men of that country；〃 it went on with a declaration that it had
been decided to hold a convention of the school…children of the
world at Chicago； in connection with the Exposition； and ended by
instructing me to invite to its deliberations the school…children
of Russia。 Of course I took especial care not to communicate any
of these things to any Russian： to have done so would have made
the Exposition； instead of the admiration； the laughing…stock of
the empire； but I wrote a letter to the assistant secretary of
state； Mr。 Quincy； who presently put an end to these vagaries。
One is greatly struck in Russia by the number of able and gifted
men and women scattered through Russian society； and at the
remarkable originality of some of them。 The causes of this
originality I touch in my chapter on Tolstoi。
It was a duty as well as a pleasure for me to keep up my
acquaintance with persons worth knowing； and； while many of the
visits thus made were perfunctory and tedious； some were
especially gratifying。 My rule was； after office hours in the
afternoon； to get into the open sledge； to make my visits； and as
a result； of course； to see and hear a vast deal of frivolity and
futility； but； from time to time； more important things。
The entertainments given by wealthy Russian nobles to the
diplomatic corps were by no means so frequent or so lavish as of
old。 Two reasons were assigned for this； one being the abolition
of the serf system； which had impoverished the nobility； and the
other the fact that the Emperor Alexander III had set the fashion
of paying less attention to foreigners than had formerly been the
custom。
The main hospitalities； so far as the Emperor and Empress were
concerned； were the great festivities at the Winter Palace；
beginning on the Russian New Year's day； which was twelve days
later than ours。 The scene was most brilliant。 The vast halls
were filled with civil and military officials from all parts of
the empire； in the most gorgeous costumes； an especially striking
effect being produced by the caftans； or long coats； of the
various Cossack regiments； the armor and helmets of the Imperial
Guards； and the old Russian costumes of the ladies。 All of the
latter； on this occasion； from the Empress down； wore these
costumes： there was great variety in these； but their main
features were the kakoshniks； or ornamental crowns； and the
tunics in bright colors。
The next of these great ceremonies at the Winter Palace was the
blessing of the waters upon the 8th of January。 The diplomatic
corps and other guests were allowed to take their places at the
palace windows looking out over the Neva； and thence could see
the entire procession； which； having gone down the ambassadors'
staircase； appeared at a temple which had been erected over an
opening in the ice of the river。 The Emperor； the grand dukes；
and the Archbishop of St。 Petersburg； with his suffragan bishops；
all took part in this ceremonial； and the music； which was
selected from the anthems of Bortniansky； was very solemn and
impressive。
During the winter came court balls； and； above all； the 〃palm
balls。〃 The latter were； in point of brilliancy； probably beyond
anything in any court of modern times。 After a reception； during
which the Emperor and Empress passed along the diplomatic circle；
speaking to the various members； dancing began； and was continued
until about midnight； then the doors were flung open into other
vast halls； which had been changed into palm…groves。 The palms
for this purpose are very large and beautiful； four series of
them being kept in the conservatories for this special purpose；
each series being used one winter and then allowed to rest for
three winters before it is brought out again。 Under these palms
the supper…tables are placed； and from fifteen hundred to two
thousand people sit at these as the guests of the Czar and
Czarina。 These entertainments seem carried to the extreme of
luxury； their only defect being their splendid monotony： only
civil； military； and diplomatic officials are present； and a
new…comer finds much difficul