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THE MOUNTAINS
We cocked ironical eyes at the sheer cliff of old Mount Tunemah； very
much as a man would cock his eye at a tiger in a cage。
Already the meat…hawks； the fluffy Canada jays； had found us out； and
were prepared to swoop down boldly on whatever offered to their
predatory skill。 We had nothing for them yet；there were no remains of
the lunch；but the fire…irons were out； and ribs of venison were roasting
slowly over the coals in preparation for the evening meal。 Directly
opposite； visible through the lattice of the trees； were two huge mountain
peaks； part of the wall that shut us in； over against us in a height we had
not dared ascribe to the sky itself。 By and by the shadow of these
mountains rose on the westerly wall。 It crept up at first slowly；
extinguishing color； afterwards more rapidly as the sun approached the
horizon。 The sunlight disappeared。 A moment's gray intervened； and
then the wonderful golden afterglow laid on the peaks its enchantment。
Little by little that too faded； until at last； far away； through a rift in the
ranks of the giants； but one remained gilded by the glory of a dream that
continued with it after the others。 Heretofore it had seemed to us an
insignificant peak； apparently overtopped by many； but by this token we
knew it to be the highest of them all。
Then ensued another pause； as though to give the invisible scene…
shifter time to accomplish his work； followed by a shower of evening
coolness； that seemed to sift through the trees like a soft and gentle rain。
We ate again by the flicker of the fire； dabbing a trifle uncertainly at the
food； wondering at the distant mountain on which the Day had made its
final stand； shrinking a little before the stealthy dark that flowed down the
canon in the manner of a heavy smoke。
In the notch between the two huge mountains blazed a star；accurately
in the notch； like the front sight of a rifle sighted into the marvelous depths
of space。 Then the moon rose。
First we knew of it when it touched the crest of our two mountains。
The night has strange effects on the hills。 A moment before they had
menaced black and sullen against the sky； but at the touch of the moon
their very substance seemed to dissolve； leaving in the upper atmosphere
the airiest； most nebulous； fragile； ghostly simulacrums of themselves you
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could imagine in the realms of fairy…land。 They seemed actually to float；
to poise like cloud…shapes about to dissolve。 And against them were cast
the inky silhouettes of three fir…trees in the shadow near at hand。
Down over the stones rolled the river； crying out to us with the voices
of old accustomed friends in another wilderness。 The winds rustled。
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XIII
TROUT； BUCKSKIN； AND PROSPECTORS
As I have said； a river flows through the canon。 It is a very good
river with some riffles that can be waded down to the edges of black pools
or white chutes of water； with appropriate big trees fallen slantwise into it
to form deep holes； and with hurrying smooth stretches of some breadth。
In all of these various places are rainbow trout。
There is no use fishing until late afternoon。 The clear sun of the high
altitudes searches out mercilessly the bottom of the stream； throwing its
miniature boulders； mountains； and valleys as plainly into relief as the
buttes of Arizona at noon。 Then the trout quite refuse。 Here and there；
if you walk far enough and climb hard enough over all sorts of
obstructions； you may discover a few spots shaded by big trees or rocks
where you can pick up a half dozen fish； but it is slow work。 When；
however； the shadow of the two huge mountains feels its way across the
stream； then； as though a signal had been given； the trout begin to rise。
For an hour and a half there is noble sport indeed。
The stream fairly swarmed with them； but of course some places were
better than others。 Near the upper reaches the water boiled like seltzer
around the base of a tremendous tree。 There the pool was at least ten feet
deep and shot with bubbles throughout the whole of its depth； but it was
full of fish。 They rose eagerly to your gyrating fly；and took it away
with them down to subaqueous chambers and passages among the roots of
that tree。 After which you broke your leader。 Royal Coachman was the
best lure； and therefore valuable exceedingly were Royal Coachmen。
Whenever we lost one we lifted up our voices in lament； and went away
from there； calling to mind that there were other pools； many other pools；
free of obstruction and with fish in them。 Yet such is the perversity of
fishermen； we were back losing more Royal Coachmen the very next day。
In all I managed to disengage just three rather small trout from that pool；
and in return decorated their ancestral halls with festoons of leaders and
the brilliance of many flies。
Now this was foolishness。 All you had to do was to walk through a
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grove of cottonwoods； over a brook； through another grove of pines； down
a sloping meadow to where one of the gigantic pine…trees had obligingly
spanned the current。 You crossed that； traversed another meadow； broke
through a thicket； slid down a steep grassy bank； and there you were。 A
great many years before a pine…tree had fallen across the current。 Now
its whitened skeleton lay there； opposing a barrier for about twenty…five
feet out into the stream。 Most of the water turned aside； of course； and
boiled frantically around the end as though trying to catch up with the rest
of the stream which had gone on without it； but some of it dived down
under and came up on the other side。 There； as though bewildered； it
paused in an uneasy pool。 Its constant action had excavated a very deep
hole； the debris of which had formed a bar immediately below。 You
waded out on the bar and cast along the length of the pine skeleton over
the pool。
If you were methodical； you first shortened your line； and began near
the bank； gradually working out until you were casting forty…five feet to
the very edge of the fast current。 I know of nothing pleasanter for you to
do。 You see； the evening shadow was across the river； and a beautiful
grass slope at your back。 Over the way was a grove of trees whose birds
were very busy because it was near their sunset； while towering over them
were mountains； quite peaceful by way of contrast because THEIR sunset
was still far distant。 The river was in a great hurry； and was talking to
itself like a man who has been detained and is now at last making up time
to his important engagement。 And from the deep black shadow beneath
the pine skeleton； occasionally flashed white bodies that made concentric
circles where they broke the surface of the water； and which fought you to
a finish in the glory of battle。 The casting was against the current； so
your flies could rest but the briefest possible moment on the surface of the
stream。 That moment was enough。 Day after day you could catch your
required number from an apparently inexhaustible supply。
I might inform you further of the gorge downstream； where you lie flat
on your stomach ten feet above the river； and with one hand cautiously
extended over the edge cast accurately into the angle of the cliff。 Then
when you get your strike； you tow him downstream； clamber
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