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It was the middle of January； at eleven o'clock at night； that we left Munich； on a mixed railway train； choosing that time； and the slowest of slow trains； that we might make the famous Brenner Pass by daylight。 It was no easy matter； at last； to pull up from the dear old city in which we had become so firmly planted； and to leave the German friends who made the place like home to us。 One gets to love Germany and the Germans as he does no other country and people in Europe。 There has been something so simple； honest； genuine； in our Munich life； that we look back to it with longing eyes from this land of fancy； of hand…organ music； and squalid splendor。 I presume the streets are yet half the day hid in a mountain fog； but I know the superb military bands are still playing at noon in the old Marian Platz and in the Loggie by the Residenz； that at half…past six in the evening our friends are quietly stepping in to hear the opera at the Hof Theater； where everybody goes to hear the music； and nobody for display； and that they will be at home before half…past nine； and have dispatched the servant for the mugs of foaming beer； I know that they still hear every week the choice conservatoire orchestral concerts in the Odeon； and； alas that experience should force me to think of it！ I have no doubt that they sip； every morning； coffee which is as much superior to that of Paris as that of Paris is to that of London； and that they eat the delicious rolls； in comparison with which those of Paris are tasteless。 I wonder； in this land of wine；and yet it must be so；if the beer…gardens are still filled nightly； and if it could be that I should sit at a little table there； a comely lass would； before I could ask for what everybody is presumed to want； place before me a tall glass full of amber liquid； crowned with creamy foam。 Are the handsome officers still sipping their coffee in the Caf？ Maximilian； and； on sunny days； is the crowd of fashion still streaming down to the Isar； and the high； sightly walks and gardens beyond？
As I said； it was eleven o'clock of a clear and not very severe night； for Munich had had no snow on the ground since November。 A deputation of our friends were at the station to see us off； and the farewells between the gentlemen were in the hearty fashion of the country。 I know there is a prejudice with us against kissing between men； but it is only a question of taste： and the experience of anybody will tell him that the theory that this sort of salutation must necessarily be desirable between opposite sexes is a delusion。 But I suppose it cannot be denied that kissing between men was invented in Germany before they wore full beards。 Well； our goodbyes said； we climbed into our bare cars。 There is no way of heating the German cars； except by tubes filled with hot water； which are placed under the feet； and are called foot…warmers。 As we slowly moved out over the plain； we found it was cold； in an hour the foot…warmers； not hot to start with； were stone cold。 You are going to sunny Italy； our friends had said： as soon as you pass the Brenner you will have sunshine and delightful weather。 This thought consoled us； but did not warm our feet。 The Germans； when they travel by rail； wrap themselves in furs and carry foot…sacks。
We creaked along； with many stoppings。 At two o'clock we were at Rosenheim。 Rosenheim is a windy place； with clear starlight； with a multitude of cars on a multiplicity of tracks； and a large； lighted refreshment…room； which has a glowing； jolly stove。 We stay there an hour； toasting by the fire and drinking excellent coffee。 Groups of Germans are seated at tables playing cards； smoking； and taking coffee。 Other trains arrive； and huge men stalk in； from Vienna or Russia； you would say； enveloped in enormous fur overcoats； reaching to the heels； and with big fur boots coming above the knees； in which they move like elephants。 Another start； and a cold ride with cooling foot…warmers； droning on to Kurfstein。 It is five o'clock when we reach Kurfstein； which is also a restaurant； with a hot stove； and more Germans going on as if it were daytime； but by this time in the morning the coffee had got to be wretched。
After an hour's waiting； we dream on again； and； before we know it； come out of our cold doze into the cold dawn。 Through the thick frost on the windows we see the faint outlines of mountains。 Scraping away the incrustation； we find that we are in the Tyrol； high hills on all sides； no snow in the valley； a bright morning； and the snow…peaks are soon rosy in the sunrise。 It is just as we expected；little villages under the hills； and slender church spires with brick…red tops。 At nine o'clock we are in Innsbruck； at the foot of the Brenner。 No snow yet。 It must be charming here in the summer。
During the night we have got out of Bavaria。 The waiter at the restaurant wants us to pay him ninety kreuzers for our coffee； which is only six kreuzers a cup in Munich。 Remembering that it takes one hundred kreuzers to make a gulden in Austria； I launch out a Bavarian gulden； and expect ten kreuzers in change。 I have heard that sixty Bavarian kreuzers are equal to one hundred Austrian； but this waiter explains to me that my gulden is only good for ninety kreuzers。 I； in my turn； explain to the waiter that it is better than the coffee； but we come to no understanding； and I give up； before I begin； trying to understand the Austrian currency。 During the day I get my pockets full of coppers； which are very convenient to take in change； but appear to have a very slight purchasing； power in Austria even； and none at all elsewhere； and the only use for which I have found is to give to Italian beggars。 One of these pieces satisfies a beggar when it drops into his hat； and then it detains him long enough in the examination of it； so that your carriage has time to get so far away that his renewed pursuit is usually unavailing。
The Brenner Pass repaid us for the pains we had taken to see it； especially as the sun shone and took the frost from our windows； and we encountered no snow on the track； and； indeed； the fall was not deep； except on the high peaks about us。 Even if the engineering of the road were not so interesting； it was something to be again amidst mountains that can boast a height of ten thousand feet。 After we passed the summit； and began the zigzag descent； we were on a sharp lookout for sunny Italy。 I expected to lay aside my heavy overcoat； and sun myself at the first station among the vineyards。 Instead of that； we bade good…by to bright sky； and plunged into a snowstorm； and； so greeted； drove down into the narrow gorges； whose steep slopes we could see were terraced to the top； and planted with vines。 We could distinguish enough to know that； with the old Roman ruins； the churches and convent towers perched on the crags； and all； the scenery in summer must be finer than that of the Rhine； especially as the vineyards here are picturesque；the vines being trained so as to hide and clothe the ground with verdure。
It was four o'clock when we reached Trent； and colder than on top of the Brenner。 As the Council； owing to the dead state of its members for now three centuries； was not in session； we made no long tarry。 We went into the magnificent large refreshment…room to get warm； but it was as cold as a New England barn。 I asked the proprietor if we could not get at a fire； but he insisted that the room was warm； that it was heated with a furnace； and that he burned good stove…coal； and pointed to a register high up in the wall。 Seeing that I looked incredulous； he insisted that I should test it。 Accordingly； I climbed upon a table； and reached up my hand。 A faint warmth came out； and I gave it up； and congratulated the landlord on his furnace。 But the register had no effect on the great hall。 You might as well try to heat the dome of St。 Peter's with a lucifer…match。 At dark； Allah be praised！ we reached Ala； where we went through the humbug of an Italian custom…house； and had our first glimpse of Italy in the picturesque…looking idlers in red…tasseled caps； and the jabber of a strange tongue。 The snow turned into a cold rain： the foot…warmers； we having reached the sunny lands； could no longer be afforded； and we shivered along till nine o'clock； dark and rainy； brought us to Verona。 We emerged from the station to find a crowd of omnibuses； carriages； drivers； runners； and people anxious to help us； all vociferating in the highest key。 Amidst the usual Italian clamor about nothing； we gained our hotel omnibus； and sat there for ten minutes watching the dispute over our luggage； and serenely listening to the angry vituperations of policemen and drivers。 It sounded like a revolution； but it was only the ordinary Italian way of doing things； and we were at last rattling away over the broad pavements。
Of course； we stopped at a palace turned hotel； drove into a court with double flights of high stone and marble stairways； and were hurried up to the marble…mosaic landing by an active boy； and； almost before we could ask for rooms； were shown into a suite of magnificent apartments。 I had a glimpse of a garden in the rear；flowers and plants； and a