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ebig； so that we can have our feelings analyzed whenever it is desirable。 When we had set up our household gods； and a fire was kindled in the tall white porcelain family monument； which is called here a stove； and which； by the way； is much more agreeable than your hideous black and air…scorching cast…iron stoves；and seen that the feather…beds under which we were expected to lie were thick enough to roast the half of the body； and short enough to let the other half freeze； we determined to try for a season the regular German cookery； our table heretofore having been served with food cooked in the English style with only a slight German flavor。 A week of the experiment was quite enough。 I do not mean to say that the viands served us were not good； only that we could not make up our minds to eat them。 The Germans eat a great deal of meat； and we were obliged to take meat when we preferred vegetables。 Now； when a deep dish is set before you wherein are chunks of pork reposing on stewed potatoes； and another wherein a fathomless depth of sauerkraut supports coils of boiled sausage； which； considering that you are a mortal and responsible being； and have a stomach； will you choose？ Herein Munich； nearly all the bread is filled with anise or caraway seed； it is possible to get； however； the best wheat bread we have eaten in Europe； and we usually have it； but one must maintain a constant vigilance against the inroads of the fragrant seeds。 Imagine； then； our despair； when one day the potato； the one vegetable we had always eaten with perfect confidence； appeared stewed with caraway seeds。 This was too much for American human nature； constituted as it is。 Yet the dish that finally sent us back to our ordinary and excellent way of living is one for which I have no name。 It may have been compounded at different times； have been the result of many tastes or distastes： but there was； after all； a unity in it that marked it as the composition of one master artist； there was an unspeakable harmony in all its flavors and apparently ununitable substances。 It looked like a terrapin soup； but it was not。 Every dive of the spoon into its dark liquid brought up a different object；a junk of unmistakable pork； meat of the color of roast hare； what seemed to be the neck of a goose； something in strings that resembled the rags of a silk dress； shreds of cabbage； and what I am quite willing to take my oath was a bit of Astrachan fur。 If Professor Liebig wishes to add to his reputation； he could do so by analyzing this dish； and publishing the result to the world。
And； while we are speaking of eating； it may be inferred that the Germans are good eaters； and although they do not begin early； seldom taking much more than a cup of coffee before noon； they make it up by very substantial dinners and suppers。 To say nothing of the extraordinary dishes of meats which the restaurants serve at night； the black bread and odorous cheese and beer which the men take on board in the course of an evening would soon wear out a cast…iron stomach in America； and yet I ought to remember the deadly pie and the corroding whisky of my native land。 The restaurant life of the people is； of course； different from their home life； and perhaps an evening entertainment here is no more formidable than one in America； but it is different。 Let me give you the outlines of a supper to which we were invited the other night： it certainly cannot hurt you to read about it。 We sat down at eight。 There were first courses of three sorts of cold meat； accompanied with two sorts of salad； the one； a composite； with a potato basis； of all imaginable things that are eaten。 Beer and bread were unlimited。 There was then roast hare； with some supporting dish； followed by jellies of various sorts； and ornamented plates of something that seemed unable to decide whether it would be jelly or cream； and then came assorted cake and the white wine of the Rhine and the red of Hungary。 We were then surprised with a dish of fried eels； with a sauce。 Then came cheese； and； to crown all； enormous； triumphal…looking loaves of cake； works of art in appearance； and delicious to the taste。 We sat at the table till twelve o'clock； but you must not imagine that everybody sat still all the time； or that； appearances to the contrary notwithstanding； the principal object of the entertainment was eating。 The songs that were sung in Hungarian as well as German； the poems that were recited； the burlesques of actors and acting； the imitations that were inimitable； the take…off of table…tipping and of prominent musicians； the wit and constant flow of fun； as constant as the good…humor and free hospitality； the unconstrained ease of the whole evening； these things made the real supper which one remembers when the grosser meal has vanished； as all substantial things do vanish。
CHRISTMAS TIME…MUSIC
For a month Munich has been preparing for Christmas。 The shop windows have had a holiday look all December。 I see one every day in which are displayed all the varieties of fruits； vegetables； and confectionery possible to be desired for a feast； done in wax；a most dismal exhibition； and calculated to make the adjoining window； which has a little fountain and some green plants waving amidst enormous pendent sausages and pigs' heads and various disagreeable hashes of pressed meat； positively enticing。 And yet there are some vegetables here that I should prefer to have in wax；for instance； sauerkraut。 The toy windows are worthy of study； and next to them the bakers'。 A favorite toy of the season is a little crib； with the Holy Child； in sugar or wax； lying in it in the most uncomfortable attitude。 Babies here are strapped upon pillows； or between pillows； and so tied up and wound up that they cannot move a muscle； except； perhaps； the tongue； and so； exactly like little mummies； they are carried about the street by the nurses；poor little things； packed away so； even in the heat of summer； their little faces looking out of the down in a most pitiful fashion。 The popular toy is a representation； in sugar or wax； of this period of life。 Generally the toy represents twins； so swathed and bound； and； not infrequently； the bold conception of the artist carries the point of the humor so far as to introduce triplets； thus sporting with the most dreadful possibilities of life。
The German bakers are very ingenious； and if they could be convinced of this great error； that because things are good separately； they must be good in combination； the produce of their ovens would be much more eatable。 As it is； they make delicious cake； and of endless variety； but they also offer us conglomerate formations that may have a scientific value； but are utterly useless to a stomach not trained in Germany。 Of this sort； for the most part； is the famous Lebkuchen； a sort of gingerbread manufactured in Nurnberg； and sent all over Germany： 〃age does not ＇seem to＇ impair； nor custom stale its infinite variety。〃 It is very different from our simple cake of that name； although it is usually baked in flat cards。 It may contain nuts or fruit； and is spoiled by a flavor of conflicting spices。 I should think it might be sold by the cord； it is piled up in such quantities； and as it grows old and is much handled； it acquires that brown； not to say dirty； familiar look； which may； for aught I know； be one of its chief recommendations。 The cake； however； which prevails at this season of the year comes from the Tyrol； and as the holidays approach； it is literally piled up on the fruit…stands。 It is called Klatzenbrod； and is not a bread at all； but and amalgamation of fruits and spices。 It is made up into small round or oblong forms； and the top is ornamented in various patterns； with split almond meats。 The color is a faded black； as if it had been left for some time in a country store； and the weight is just about that of pig…iron。 I had formed a strong desire； mingled with dread； to taste it； which I was not likely to gratify；one gets so tired of such experiments after a timewhen a friend sent us a ball of it。 There was no occasion to call in Professor Liebig to analyze the substance： it is a plain case。 The black mass contains； cut up and pressed together； figs； citron； oranges； raisins； dates； various kinds of nuts； cinnamon） nutmeg； cloves； and I know not what other spices； together with the inevitable anise and caraway seeds。 It would make an excellent cannon…ball； and would be specially fatal if it hit an enemy in the stomach。 These seeds invade all dishes。 The cooks seem possessed of one of the rules of whist；in case of doubt； play a trump： in case of doubt； they always put in anise seed。 It is sprinkled profusely in the blackest rye bread； it gets into all the vegetables； and even into the holiday cakes。
The extensive Maximilian Platz has suddenly grown up into booths and shanties； and looks very much like a temporary Western village。 There are shops for the sale of Christmas articles； toys； cakes； and gimcracks； and there are； besides； places of amusement； if one of the sorry menageries of sick beasts with their hair half worn off can be so classed。 One portion of the platz is now a lively and picturesque f