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upon the customs of the family The piper declared； he could not
give up for a moment the privilege he derived from his ancestors；
nor would the laird's relations forego an entertainment which
they valued above all others There was no remedy； Mr Campbell；
being obliged to acquiesce； is fain to stop his ears with cotton；
to fortify his head with three or four night…caps and every
morning retire into the penetralia of his habitation； in order to
avoid this diurnal annoyance。 When the music ceases； he produces
himself at an open window that looks into the courtyard； which is
by this time filled with a crowd of his vassals and dependents；
who worship his first appearance； by uncovering their heads； and
bowing to the earth with the most humble prostration。 As all
these people have something to communicate in the way of
proposal； complaint； or petition； they wait patiently till the
laird comes forth； and； following him in his walks； are favoured
each with a short audience in his turn。 Two days ago； he
dispatched above an hundred different sollicitors； in walking
with us to the house of a neighbouring gentleman； where we dined
by invitation。 Our landlord's housekeeping is equally rough and
hospitable； and savours much of the simplicity of ancient times：
the great hall； paved with flat stones； is about forty…five feet
by twenty…two； and serves not only for a dining…room； but also
for a bedchamber； to gentlemen…dependents and hangers…on of the
family。 At night； half a dozen occasional beds are ranged on each
side along the wall。 These are made of fresh heath； pulled up by
the roots； and disposed in such a manner as to make a very
agreeable couch； where they lie； without any other covering than
the plaid My uncle and I were indulged with separate chambers
and down beds which we begged to exchange for a layer of heath；
and indeed I never slept so much to my satisfaction。 It was not
only soft and elastic； but the plant； being in flower； diffused
an agreeable fragrance； which is wonderfully refreshing and
restorative。
Yesterday we were invited to the funeral of an old lady； the
grandmother of a gentleman in this neighbourhood； and found
ourselves in the midst of fifty people； who were regaled with a
sumptuous feast； accompanied by the music of a dozen pipers。 In
short； this meeting had all the air of a grand festival； and the
guests did such honour to the entertainment； that many of them
could not stand when we were reminded of the business on which
we had met。 The company forthwith taking horse； rode in a very
irregular cavalcade to the place of interment； a church； at the
distance of two long miles from the castle。 On our arrival；
however； we found we had committed a small oversight； in leaving
the corpse behind； so we were obliged to wheel about； and met the
old gentlewoman half way； being carried upon poles by the nearest
relations of her family； and attended by the coronach； composed
of a multitude of old hags； who tore their hair； beat their
breasts； and howled most hideously。 At the grave； the orator； or
senachie； pronounced the panegyric of the defunct； every period
being confirmed by a yell of the coronach。 The body was committed
to the earth； the pipers playing a pibroch all the time； and all
the company standing uncovered。 The ceremony was closed with the
discharge of pistols； then we returned to the castle； resumed the
bottle； and by midnight there was not a sober person in the
family； the females excepted。 The 'squire and I were； with some
difficulty； permitted to retire with our landlord in the evening；
but our entertainer was a little chagrined at our retreat； and
afterwards seemed to think it a disparagement to his family； that
not above a hundred gallons of whisky had been drunk upon such a
solemn occasion。 This morning we got up by four； to hunt the
roebuck； and； in half an hour； found breakfast ready served in
the hall。 The hunters consisted of Sir George Colquhoun and me；
as strangers （my uncle not chusing to be of the party）； of the
laird in person； the laird's brother； the laird's brother's son；
the laird's sister's son； the laird's father's brother's son； and
all their foster brothers； who are counted parcel of the family：
but we were attended by an infinite number of Gaelly's； or ragged
Highlanders without shoes or stockings。
The following articles formed our morning's repast： one kit of
boiled eggs； a second； full of butter； a third full of cream； an
entire cheese； made of goat's milk； a large earthen pot full of
honey； the best part of a ham； a cold venison pasty； a bushel of
oat meal； made in thin cakes and bannocks； with a small wheaten
loaf in the middle for the strangers； a large stone bottle full
of whisky； another of brandy； and a kilderkin of ale。 There was
a ladle chained to the cream kit； with curious wooden bickers to
be filled from this reservoir。 The spirits were drank out of a
silver quaff； and the ale out of hems： great justice was done to
the collation by the guest in general； one of them in particular
ate above two dozen of hard eggs； with a proportionable quantity
of bread； butter； and honey； nor was one drop of liquor left upon
the board。 Finally； a large roll of tobacco was presented by way
of desert； and every individual took a comfortable quid； to
prevent the bad effects of the morning air。 We had a fine chace
over the mountains； after a roebuck； which we killed； and I got
home time enough to drink tea with Mrs Campbell and our 'squire。
To…morrow we shall set out on our return for Cameron。 We propose
to cross the Frith of Clyde； and take the towns of Greenock and
Port…Glasgow in our way。 This circuit being finished； we shall
turn our faces to the south； and follow the sun with augmented
velocity； in order to enjoy the rest of the autumn in England；
where Boreas is not quite so biting as he begins already to be on
the tops of these northern hills。 But our progress from place to
place shall continue to be specified in these detached journals of
Yours always；
J。 MELFORD
ARGYLSHIRE； Sept。 3。
To Dr LEWIS。
DEAR DICK；
About a fortnight is now elapsed； since we left the capital of
Scotland； directing our course towards Stirling； where we lay。 The
castle of this place is such another as that of Edinburgh； and
affords a surprising prospect of the windings of the river Forth；
which are so extraordinary； that the distance from hence to Alloa
by land； is but forty miles； and by water it is twenty…four。
Alloa is a neat thriving town； that depends in a great measure on
the commerce of Glasgow； the merchants of which send hither
tobacco and other articles； to be deposited in warehouses for
exportation from the Frith of Forth。 In our way hither we visited
a flourishing iron…work； where； instead of burning wood； they use
coal； which they have the art of clearing in such a manner as
frees it from the sulphur； that would otherwise render the metal
too brittle for working。 Excellent coal is found in almost every
part of Scotland。
The soil of this district produces scarce any other grain but
oats； lid barley； perhaps because it is poorly cultivated； and
almost altogether uninclosed。 The few inclosures they have
consist of paultry walls of loose stones gathered from the
fields； which indeed they cover； as if they had been scattered on
purpose。 When I expressed my surprize that the peasants did not
disencumber their grounds of these stones； a gentleman； well
acquainted with the theory as well as practice of farming；
assured me that the stones； far from being prejudicial； were
serviceable to the crop。 This philosopher had ordered a field of
his own to be cleared； manured and sown with barley； and the
produce was more scanty than before。 He caused the stones to be
replaced； and next year the crop was as good as ever。 The stones
were removed a second time； and the harvest failed； they were
again brought back； and the ground retrieved its fertility。 The
same experiment has been tried in different parts of Scotland
with the same successAstonished at this information； I desired
to know in what manner he accounted for this strange phenomenon；
and he said there were three ways in which the stones might be
serviceable。 They might possibly restrain an excess in the
perspiration of the earth； analogous to colliquative sweats； by
which the human body is sometimes wasted and consumed。 They might
act as so many fences to protect the tender blade from the
piercing winds of the spring； or； by multiplying the reflexion of
the sun； they might increase the warmth； so as to mitigate the
natural chilness of the soil and climate But； surely this
excessive perspiration might be more effectually checked by
different kinds of manure； such as ashes； lime； chalk； or marl；
of which last it seems there are many pits in this kingdom： as
for the warmth； it would be much more equally obtained by
inclosures； the cultivation would require less labour； and the
ploughs； harrows； and horses； would not suffer half the damage
which they now sustain。
These north…western parts are by no means fertile in corn。 The
ground is naturally barren and moorish。 The peasants are poorly
lodged； meagre in their