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mission； had come hither in person At length； we set out for the
banks of Lough…Lomond； passing through the little borough of
Dumbarton； or （as my uncle will have it） Dunbritton； where there
is a castle； more curious than any thing of the kind I had ever
seen。 It is honoured with a particular description by the elegant
Buchanan； as an arx inexpugnabilis； and； indeed； it must have
been impregnable by the antient manner of besieging。 It is a rock
of considerable extent； rising with a double top； in an angle
formed by the confluence of two rivers； the Clyde and the Leven；
perpendicular and inaccessible on all sides； except in one place
where the entrance is fortified； and there is no rising ground in
the neighbourhood from whence it could be damaged by any kind of
battery。
From Dumbarton； the West Highlands appear in the form of huge；
dusky mountains； piled one over another； but this prospect is not
at all surprising to a native of Glamorgan We have fixed our
headquarters at Cameron； a very neat country…house belonging to
commissary Smollet； where we found every sort of accommodation we
could desire It is situated like a Druid's temple； in a grove of
oak； close by the side of Lough…Lomond； which is a surprising
body of pure transparent water； unfathomably deep in many places；
six or seven miles broad； four and twenty miles in length；
displaying above twenty green islands； covered with wood； some of
them cultivated for corn； and many of them stocked with red deer
They belong to different gentlemen； whose seats are scattered
along the banks of the lake； which are agreeably romantic beyond
all conception。 My uncle and I have left the women at Cameron； as
Mrs Tabitha would by no means trust herself again upon the water；
and to come hither it was necessary to cross a small inlet of the
sea； in an open ferry…boat This country appears more and more
wild and savage the further we advance； and the People are as
different from the Low…land Scots； in their looks； garb； and
language； as the mountaineers of Brecknock are from the
inhabitants of Herefordshire。
When the Lowlanders want to drink a chearupping…cup； they go to
the public house； called the Change…house； and call for a chopine
of two…penny； which is a thin； yeasty beverage； made of malt； not
quite so strong as the table…beer of England； This is brought in
a pewter stoop； shaped like a skittle； from whence it is emptied
into a quaff； that is； a curious cup made of different pieces of
wood； such as box and ebony； cut into little staves； joined
alternately； and secured with delicate hoops； having two cars or
handles It holds about a gill； is sometimes tipt round the mouth
with silver； and has a plate of the same metal at bottom； with
the landlord's cypher engraved。 The Highlanders； on the
contrary； despise this liquor； and regale themselves with whisky；
a malt spirit； as strong as geneva； which they swallow in great
quantities； without any signs of inebriation。 They are used to it
from the cradle； and find it an excellent preservative against
the winter cold； which must be extreme on these mountains I am
told that it is given with great success to infants； as a cordial
in the confluent smallpox； when the eruption seems to flag； and
the symptoms grow unfavourable The Highlanders are used to eat
much more animal food than falls to the share of their neighbours
in the Low…country They delight in hunting； have plenty of deer
and other game； with a great number of sheep； goats； and black…cattle
running wild； which they scruple not to kill as vension；
without being much at pains to ascertain the property。
Inverary is but a poor town； though it stands immediately under
the protection of the duke of Argyle； who is a mighty prince in
this part of Scotland。 The peasants live in wretched cabins； and
seem very poor； but the gentlemen are tolerably well lodged； and
so loving to strangers； that a man runs some risque of his life
from their hospitality It must be observed that the poor
Highlanders are now seen to disadvantage。 They have been not only
disarmed by act of parliament； but also deprived of their ancient
garb； which was both graceful and convenient； and what is a
greater hardship still； they are compelled to wear breeches； a
restraint which they cannot bear with any degree of patience：
indeed； the majority wear them； not in the proper place； but on
poles or long staves over their shoulders They are even debarred
the use of their striped stuff called Tartane； which was their
own manufacture； prized by them above all the velvets； brocades；
and tissues of Europe and Asia。 They now lounge along in loose
great coats； of coarse russet； equally mean and cumbersome； and
betray manifest marks of dejection Certain it is； the government
could not have taken a more effectual method to break their
national spirit。
We have had princely sport in hunting the stag on these mountains。
These are the lonely hills of Morven； where Fingal and his heroes
enjoyed the same pastime； I feel an enthusiastic pleasure when I
survey the brown heath that Ossian wont to tread； and hear the
wind whistle through the bending grass When I enter our
landlord's hall； I look for the suspended harp of that divine
bard； and listen in hopes of hearing the aerial sound of his
respected spirit The poems of Ossian are in every mouth A
famous antiquarian of this country； the laird of Macfarlane； at
whose house we dined a few days ago； can repeat them all in the
original Gallick； which has a great affinity to the Welch； not
only in the general sound； but also in a great number of radical
words； and I make no doubt that they are both sprung from the
same origin。 I was not a little surprised； when asking a
Highlander one day； if he knew where we should find any game？ he
replied； 'hu niel Sassenagh'； which signifies no English： the
very same answer I should have received from a Welchman； and
almost in the same words。 The Highlanders have no other name for
the people of the Low…country； but Sassenagh； or Saxons； a strong
presumption； that the Lowland Scots and the English are derived
from the same stock The peasants of these hills strongly
resemble those of Wales in their looks； their manners； and
habitations； every thing I see ； and hear； and feel； seems Welch
The mountains； vales； and streams； the air and climate； the
beef； mutton； and game； are all Welch It must be owned； however；
that this people are better Provided than we in some articles
They have plenty of red deer and roebuck； which are fat and
delicious at this season of the year。 Their sea teems with amazing
quantities of the finest fish in the world。 and they find means
to procure very good claret at a very small expence。
Our landlord is a man of consequence in this part of the country；
a cadet from the family of Argyle and hereditary captain of one
of his castles His name； in plain English； is Dougal Campbell；
but as there is a great number of the same appellation； they are
distinguished （like the Welch） by patronimics； and as I have
known an antient Briton called Madoc ap…Morgan ap…Jenkin； ap…Jones；
our Highland chief designs himself Dou'l Mac…amish mac…'oul ichian；
signifying Dougal； the son of James； the son of
Dougal； the son of John。 He has travelled in the course of his
education； and is disposed to make certain alterations in his
domestic oeconomy； but he finds it impossible to abolish the
ancient customs of the family； some of which are ludicrous
enough His piper for example； who is an hereditary officer of
the household； will not part with the least particle of his
privileges。 He has a right to wear the kilt； or ancient Highland
dress； with the purse； pistol； and durk a broad yellow ribbon；
fixed to the chanter…pipe； is thrown over his shoulder； and
trails along the ground； while he performs the function of his
minstrelsy； and this； I suppose； is analogous to the pennon or
flag which was formerly carried before every knight in battle。
He plays before the laird every Sunday in his way to the kirk；
which he circles three times； performing the family march which
implies defiance to all the enemies of the clan； and every
morning he plays a full hour by the clock； in the great hall；
marching backwards and forwards all the time； with a solemn pace；
attended by the laird's kinsmen； who seem much delighted with the
music In this exercise； he indulges them with a variety of
pibrochs or airs； suited to the different passions； which he
would either excite or assuage。
Mr Campbell himself； who performs very well on the violin； has an
invincible antipathy to the sound of the Highland bagpipe； which
sings in the nose with a most alarming twang； and； indeed； is
quite intolerable to ears of common sensibility； when aggravated
by the echo of a vaulted hall He therefore begged the piper
would have some mercy upon him； and dispense with this part of
the morning service A consultation of the clan being held on
this occasion； it was unanimously agreed； that the laird's
request could not be granted without a dangerous encroachment
upon the customs of the family The piper declared； he could not
give up for a moment the