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were so rough； that although we travelled very slowly； the
jolting occasioned such pain； to my uncle； that he was become
exceedingly peevish when we arrived at this place； which lies
about eight miles from the postroad； between Wetherby and
Boroughbridge。
Harrigate…water； so celebrated for its efficacy in the scurvy and
other distempers； is supplied from a copious spring； in the
hollow of a wild common； round which； a good many houses have
been built for the convenience of the drinkers； though few of
them are inhabited。 Most of the company lodge at some distance；
in five separate inns； situated in different parts of the
commons； from whence they go every morning to the well； in their
own carriages。 The lodgers of each inn form a distinct society；
that eat together； and there is a commodious public room； where
they breakfast in disabille； at separate tables； from eight
o'clock till eleven； as they chance or chuse to come in Here
also they drink tea in the afternoon； and play at cards or dance
in the evening。 One custom； however； prevails； which I looked
upon as a solecism in politeness。 The ladies treat with tea in
their turns； and even girls of sixteen are not exempted from this
shameful imposition There is a public ball by subscription every
night at one of the houses； to which all the company from the
others are admitted by tickets； and； indeed； Harrigate treads
upon the heels of Bath； in the articles of gaiety and
dissipation with this difference； however； that here we are more
sociable and familiar。 One of the inns is already full up to the
very garrets； having no less than fifty lodgers； and as many
servants。 Our family does not exceed thirty…six； and I should be
sorry to see the number augmented； as our accommodations won't
admit of much increase。
At present； the company is more agreeable than one could expect
from an accidental assemblage of persons； who are utter strangers
to one another There seems to be a general disposition among us
to maintain good…fellowship； and promote the purposes of
humanity； in favour of those who come hither on the score of
health。 I see several faces which we left at Bath； although the
majority are of the Northern counties； and many come from
Scotland for the benefit of these waters In such a variety；
there must be some originals； among whom Mrs Tabitha Bramble is
not the most inconsiderable No place where there is such an
intercourse between the sexes； can be disagreeable to a lady of
her views and temperament She has had some warm disputes at
table； with a lame parson from Northumberland； on the new birth；
and the insignificance of moral virtue； and her arguments have
been reinforced by an old Scotch lawyer； in a rye periwig； who；
though he has lost his teeth； and the use of his limbs； can still
wag his tongue with great volubility。 He has paid her such
fulsome compliments； upon her piety and learning； as seem to have
won her heart； and she； in her turn； treats him with such
attention as indicates a design upon his person； but； by all
accounts； he is too much of a fox to be inveigled into any snare
that she can lay for his affection。
We do not propose to stay long at Harrigate； though； at present；
it is our headquarters； from whence we shall make some
excursions； to visit two or three of our rich relations； who are
settled in this country。 Pray； remember me to all our friends of
Jesus； and allow me to be still
Yours affectionately；
J。 MELFORD
HARRIGATE； June 23。
To Dr LEWIS。
DEAR DOCTOR；
Considering the tax we pay for turnpikes； the roads of this
county constitute a most intolerable grievance。 Between Newark
and Weatherby； I have suffered more from jolting and swinging
than ever I felt in the whole course of my life； although the
carriage is remarkably commodious and well hung； and the
postilions were very careful in driving。 I am now safely housed
at the New Inn； at Harrigate； whither I came to satisfy my
curiosity； rather than with any view of advantage to my health；
and； truly； after having considered all the parts and particulars
of the place； I cannot account for the concourse of people one
finds here； upon any other principle but that of caprice； which
seems to be the character of our nation。
Harrigate is a wild common； bare and bleak； without tree or
shrub； or the least signs of cultivation； and the people who
come to drink the water； are crowded together in paltry inns；
where the few tolerable rooms are monopolized by the friends and
favourites of the house； and all the rest of the lodgers are
obliged to put up with dirty holes； where there is neither space；
air； nor convenience。 My apartment is about ten feet square； and
when the folding bed is down； there is just room sufficient to
pass between it and the fire。 One might expect； indeed； that
there would be no occasion for a fire at Midsummer； but here the
climate is so backward； that an ash tree； which our landlord
has planted before my window； is just beginning to put forth its
leaves； and I am fain to have my bed warmed every night。
As for the water； which is said to have effected so many
surprising cures； I have drank it once； and the first draught has
cured me of all desire to repeat the medicine。 Some people say
it smells of rotten eggs； and others compare it to the scourings
of a foul gun。 It is generally supposed to be strongly
impregnated with sulphur； and Dr Shaw； in his book upon mineral
water； says； he has seen flakes of sulphur floating in the well
Pace tanti viri； I； for my part； have never observed any thing
like sulphur； either in or about the well； neither do I find that
any brimstone has ever been extracted from the water。 As for the
smell； if I may be allowed to judge from my own organs； it is
exactly that of bilge…water； and the saline taste of it seems to
declare that it is nothing else than salt water putrified in the
bowels of the earth。 I was obliged to hold my nose with one hand；
while I advanced the glass to my mouth with the other； and after
I had made shift to swallow it； my stomach could hardly retain
what it had received。 The only effects it produced were
sickness； griping； and insurmountable disgust。 I can hardly
mention it without puking。 The world is strangely misled by the
affectation of singularity。 I cannot help suspecting； that this
water owes its reputation in a great measure to its being so
strikingly offensive。 On the same kind of analogy； a German
doctor has introduced hemlock and other poisons； as specifics；
into the materia medica。 I am persuaded； that all the cures
ascribed to the Harrigate water； would have been as
efficaciously； and infinitely more agreeably performed； by the
internal and external use of seawater。 Sure I am； this last is
much less nauseous to the taste and smell； and much more gentle
in its operation as a purge； as well as more extensive in its
medical qualities。
Two days ago we went across the country to visit 'squire Burdock；
who married a first cousin of my father； an heiress； who brought
him an estate of a thousand a…year。 This gentleman is a declared
opponent of the ministry in parliament； and having an opulent
fortune； piques himself upon living in the country； and
maintaining old English hospitality By the bye； this is a phrase
very much used by the English themselves both in words and
writing； but I never heard of it out of the island； except by way
of irony and sarcasm。 What the hospitality of our forefathers has
been I should be glad to see recorded； rather in the memoirs of
strangers who have visited our country； and were the proper
objects and judges of such hospitality； than in the discourse and
lucubrations of the modern English； who seem to describe it from
theory and conjecture。 Certain it is； we are generally looked
upon by foreigners； as a people totally destitute of this virtue；
and I never was in any country abroad； where I did not meet with
persons of distinction； who complained of having been
inhospitably used in Great Britain。 A gentleman of France； Italy；
or Germany； who has entertained and lodged an Englishman at his
house； when he afterwards meets with his guest at London； is
asked to dinner at the Saracen's…head； the Turk's…head； the
Boar's…head； or the Bear； eats raw beef and butter； drinks
execrable port； and is allowed to pay his share of the reckoning。
But to return from this digression； which my feeling for the
honour of my country obliged me to make our Yorkshire cousin has
been a mighty fox…hunter before the Lord； but now he is too fat
and unwieldy to leap ditches and five…bar gates； nevertheless； he
still keeps a pack of hounds； which are well exercised； and his
huntsman every night entertains him with the adventures of the
day's chace； which he recites in a tone and terms that are
extremely curious and significant。 In the mean time； his broad
brawn is scratched by one of his grooms。 This fellow； it
seems； having no inclination to curry any beast out of the
stable； was at great pains to scollop his nails in such a manner
that the blood followed at every stroke。 He was in hopes that he
would be dismissed from this disagreeable office； but the event
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