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lows that the number of the house indicates the exact block of houses in which it is situated。 I do not like the right´angled building of these towns�察�nor do I like the sound of Twentieth Street and Thirtieth Street�察�but I must acknowledge that the arrangement in Philadelphia has its convenience。 In New York I found it by no means an easy thing to arrive at the desired locality。 They boast in Philadelphia that they have half a million inhabitants。 If this be taken as a true calculation�察�Philadelphia is in size the fourth city in the worldputting out of the question the cities of China�察�as to which we have heard so much and believe so little。 But in making this calculation the citizens include the population of a district on some sides ten miles distant from Philadelphia。 It takes in other towns�察�connected with it by railway but separated by large spaces of open country。 American cities are very proud of their population�察�but if they all counted in this way�察�there would soon be no rural population left at all。 There is a very fine bank at Philadelphia�察�and Philadelphia is a town somewhat celebrated in its banking history。 My remarks here�察�however�察�apply simply to the external building�察�and not to its internal honesty and wisdom�察�or to its commercial credit。 In Philadelphia also stands the old house of Congressthe house in which the Congress of the United States was held previous to 1800�察�when the government and the Congress with it were moved to the new City of Washington。 I believe�察�however�察�that the first Congress�察�properly so called�察�was assembled at New York in 1789�察�the date of the inauguration of the first President。 It was�察�however�察�here in this building at Philadelphia that the independence of the Union was declared in 1776�察�and that the Constitution of the United States was framed。 Pennsylvania�察�with Philadelphia for its capital�察�was once the leading State of the Union�察�leading by a long distance。 At the end of the last century it beat all the other States in population�察�but has since been surpassed by New York in all respectsin population�察�commerce�察�wealth�察�and general activity。 Of course it is known that Pennsylvania was granted to William Penn�察�the Quaker�察�by Charles II。 I cannot completely understand what was the meaning of such grantshow far they implied absolute possession in the territory�察�or how far they confirmed simply the power of settling and governing a colony。 In this case a very considerable property was confirmed�察�as the claim made by Penn's children�察�after Penn's death�察�was bought up by the commonwealth of Pennsylvania for 130��000l。�察�which�察�in those days�察�was a large price for almost any landed estate on the other side of the Atlantic。 Pennsylvania lies directly on the borders of slave land�察�being immediately north of Maryland。 Mason and Dixon's line�察�of which we hear so often�察�and which was first established as the division between slave soil and free soil�察�runs between Pennsylvania and Maryland。 The little State of Delaware�察�which lies between Maryland and the Atlantic�察�is also tainted with slavery�察�but the stain is not heavy nor indelible。 In a population of a hundred and twelve thousand�察�there are not two thousand slaves�察�and of these the owners generally would willingly rid themselves if they could。 It is�察�however�察�a point of honor with these owners�察�as it is also in Maryland�察�not to sell their slaves�察�and a man who cannot sell his slaves must keep them。 Were he to enfranchise them and send them about their business�察�they would come back upon his hands。 Were he to enfranchise them and pay them wages for work�察�they would get the wages�察�but he would not get the work。 They would get the wages�察�but at the end of three months they would still fall back upon his hands in debt and distress�察�looking to him for aid and comfort as a child looks for it。 It is not easy to get rid of a slave in a slave State。 That question of enfranchising slaves is not one to be very readily solved。 In Pennsylvania the right of voting is confined to free white men。 In New York the colored free men have the right to vote�察�providing they have a certain small property qualification�察�and have been citizens for three years in the State�察�whereas a white man need have been a citizen but for ten days�察�and need have no property qualificationfrom which it is seen that the position of the negro becomes worse�察�or less like that of a white man�察�as the border of slave land is more nearly reached。 But�察�in the teeth of this embargo on colored men�察�the constitution of Pennsylvania asserts broadly that all men are born equally free and independent。 One cannot conceive how two clauses can have found their way into the same document so absolutely contradictory to each other。 The first clause says that white men shall vote�察�and that black men shall notwhich means that all political action shall be confined to white men。 The second clause says that all men are born equally free and independent。 In Philadelphia I for the first time came across live secessionistssecessionists who pronounced themselves to be such。 I will not say that I had met in other cities men who falsely declared themselves true to the Union�察�but I had fancied�察�in regard to some�察�that their words were a little stronger than their feelings。 When a man's breadand�察�much more�察�when the bread of his wife and childrendepends on his professing a certain line of political conviction�察�it is very hard for him to deny his assent to the truth of the argument。 One feels that a man�察�under such circumstances�察�is bound to be convinced�察�unless he be in a position which may make a stanch adherence to opposite politics a matter of grave public importance。 In the North I had fancied that I could sometimes read a secessionist tendency under a cloud of Unionist protestations。 But in Philadelphia men did not seem to think it necessary to have recourse to such a cloud。 I generally found�察�in mixed society�察�that even there the discussion of secession was not permitted�察�but in society that was not mixed I heard very strong opinions expressed on each side。 With the Unionists nothing was so strong as the necessity of keeping of Slidell and Mason�察�when I suggested that the English government would probably require their surrender�察�I was talked down and ridiculed。 ;Never thatcome what may。; Then�察�within half an hour�察�I would be told by a secessionist that England must demand reparation if she meant to retain any place among the great nations of the world�察�but he also would declare that the men would not be surrendered。 ;She must make the demand�察─�the secessionists would say�察 �and then there will be war�察�and after that we shall see whose ports will be blockaded� ─ �The Southerner has ever looked to England for some breach of the blockade quite as strongly as the North has looked to England for sympathy and aid in keeping it。 The railway from Philadelphia to Baltimore passes along the top of Chesapeake Bay and across the Susquehanna River�察�at least the railway cars do so。 On one side of that river they are run on to a huge ferry´boat�察�and are again run off at the other side。 Such an operation would seem to be one of difficulty to us under any circumstances�察�but as the Susquehanna is a tidal river�察�rising and falling a considerable number of feet�察�the natural impediment in the way of such an enterprise would�察�I think�察�have staggered us。 We should have built a bridge costing two or three millions sterling�察�on which no conceivable amount of traffic would pay a fair dividend。 Here�察�in crossing the Susquehanna�察�the boat is so constructed that its deck shall be level with the line of the railway at half tide�察�so that the inclined plane from the shore down to the boat�察�or from the shore up to the boat�察�shall never exceed half the amount of the rise or fall。 One would suppose that the most intricate machinery would have been necessary for such an arrangement�察�but it was all rough and simple�察�and apparently managed by two negroes。 We would employ a small corps of engineers to conduct such an operation�察�and men and women would be detained in their carriages under all manner of threats as to the peril of life and limb�察�but here everybody was expected to look out for himself。 The cars were dragged up the inclined plane by a hawser attached to an engine�察�which hawser�察�had the stress broken it�察�as I could not but fancy probable�察�would have flown back and cut to pieces a lot of us who were standing in front of the car。 But I do not think that any such accident would have caused very much attention。 Life and limbs are not held to be so precious here as they are in England。 It may be a question whether with us they are not almost too precious。 Regarding railways in America generally�察�as to the relative safety of which�察�when compared with our own�察�we have not in England a high opinion�察�I must say that I never saw any accident or in any way became conversant with one。 It is said that large numbers of men and women are slaughtered from time to time on different lines�察�but if it be so�察�the newspapers make very light of such cases。 I myself have seen no such slaughter�察�nor have I even found myself in the vicinity of a broken bone。 Beyond the Susquehanna we passed over a creek of Chesapeake Bay on a long
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