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the most graphic and sympathetic picture of Syrian travel ever written
one that will never become antiquated or obsolete so long as human nature
remains unchanged。 From beginning to end the tale is rarely； reverently
told。 Its closing paragraph has not been surpassed in the voluminous
literature of that solemn land：
Palestine sits in sackcloth and ashes。 Over it broods the spell of
a curse that has withered its fields and fettered its energies。
Where Sodom and Gomorrah reared their domes and towers that solemn
sea now floods the plain； in whose bitter waters no living thing
existsover whose waveless surface the blistering air hangs
motionless and deadabout whose borders nothing grows but weeds and
scattering tufts of cane； and that treacherous fruit that promises
refreshment to parching lips； but turns to ashes at the touch。
Nazareth is forlorn； about that ford of Jordan where the hosts of
Israel entered the Promised Land with songs of rejoicing one finds
only a squalid camp of fantastic Bedouins of the desert； Jericho the
accursed lies a moldering ruin today； even as Joshua's miracle left
it more than three thousand years ago； Bethlehem and Bethany； in
their poverty and their humiliation； have nothing about them now to
remind one that they once knew the high honor of the Saviour's
presence； the hallowed spot where the shepherds watched their flocks
by night； and where the angels sang Peace on earth； goodwill to men；
is untenanted by any living creature； and unblessed by any feature
that is pleasant to the eye。 Renowned Jerusalem itself； the
stateliest name in history； has lost all its ancient grandeur； and
is become a pauper village； the riches of Solomon are no longer
there to compel the admiration of visiting Oriental queens； the
wonderful temple which was the pride and the glory of Israel is
gone； and the Ottoman crescent is lifted above the spot where； on
that most memorable day in the annals of the world； they reared the
Holy Cross。 The noted Sea of Galilee； where Roman fleets once rode
at anchor and the disciples of the Saviour sailed in their ships；
was long ago deserted by the devotees of war and commerce； and its
borders are a silent wilderness； Capernaum is a shapeless ruin；
Magdala is the home of beggared Arabs； Bethsaida and Chorazin have
vanished from the earth； and the 〃desert places〃 round about them
where thousands of men once listened to the Saviour's voice and ate
the miraculous bread sleep in the hush of a solitude that is
inhabited only by birds of prey and skulking foxes。
Palestine is desolate and unlovely。 And why should it be otherwise？
Can the curse of the Deity beautify a land？
It would be easy to quote pages herea pictorial sequence from Gibraltar
to Athens； from Athens to Egypt； a radiant panoramic march。 In time he
would write technically better。 He would avoid solecism； he would become
a greater master of vocabulary and phrase； but in all the years ahead he
would never match the lambent bloom and spontaneity of those fresh； first
impressions of Mediterranean lands and seas。 No need to mention the
humor； the burlesque； the fearless； unrestrained ridicule of old masters
and of sacred relics； so called。 These we have kept familiar with much
repetition。 Only； the humor had grown more subtle； more restrained； the
burlesque had become impersonal and harmless； the ridicule so frank and
good…natured； that even the old masters themselves might have enjoyed it；
while the most devoted churchman； unless blinded by bigotry； would find
in it satisfaction； rather than sacrilege。
The final letter was written for the New York Herald after the arrival；
and was altogether unlike those that preceded it。 Gaily satirical and
personalinclusively soit might better have been left unwritten； for
it would seem to have given needless offense to a number of goodly
people； whose chief sin was the sedateness of years。 However； it is all
past now； and those who were old then； and perhaps queer and pious and
stingy； do not mind any more； and those who were young and frivolous have
all grown old too； and most of them have set out on the still farther
voyage。 Somewhere； it may be； they gather； now； and then； and lightly；
tenderly recall their old…time journeying。
LXIII
IN WASHINGTONA PUBLISHING PROPOSITION
Clemens remained but one day in New York。 Senator Stewart had written；
about the time of the departure of the Quaker City； offering him the
position of private secretarya position which was to give him leisure
for literary work； with a supporting salary as well。 Stewart no doubt
thought it would be considerably to his advantage to have the brilliant
writer and lecturer attached to his political establishment； and Clemens
likewise saw possibilities in the arrangement。 From Naples； in August；
he had written accepting Stewart's offer； he lost no time now in
discussing the matter in person。 ＇In a letter home； August 9th； he
referred to the arrangement： 〃I wrote to Bill Stewart to…day accepting
his private secretaryship in Washington； next winter。〃＇
There seems to have been little difficulty in concluding the arrangement。
When Clemens had been in Washington a week we find him writing：
DEAR FOLKS； Tired and sleepybeen in Congress all day and making
newspaper acquaintances。 Stewart is to look up a clerkship in the
Patent Office for Orion。 Things necessarily move slowly where there
is so much business and such armies of office…seekers to be attended
to。 I guess it will be all right。 I intend it shall be all right。
I have 18 invitations to lecture； at 100 each； in various parts
of the Unionhave declined them all。 I am for business now。
Belong on the Tribune Staff； and shall write occasionally。 Am
offered the same berth to…day on the Herald by letter。 Shall write
Mr。 Bennett and accept； as soon as I hear from Tribune that it will
not interfere。 Am pretty well known nowintend to be better known。
Am hobnobbing with these old Generals and Senators and other humbugs
for no good purpose。 Don't have any more trouble making friends
than I did in California。 All serene。 Good…by。 Shall continue on
the Alta。
Yours affectionately；
SAM。
P。S。I room with Bill Stewart and board at Willard's Hotel。
But the secretary arrangement was a brief matter。 It is impossible to
conceive of Mark Twain as anybody's secretary； especially as the
secretary of Senator Stewart。
＇In Senator Stewart's memoirs he refers unpleasantly to Mark Twain； and
after relating several incidents that bear only strained relations to the
truth； states that when the writer returned from the Holy Land he
（Stewart） offered him a secretaryship as a sort of charity。 He adds that
Mark Twain's behavior on his premises was such that a threat of a
thrashing was necessary。 The reason for such statements becomes
apparent； however； when he adds that in 'Roughing It' the author accuses
him of cheating； prints a picture of him with a hatch over his eye； and
claims to have given him a sound thrashing； none of which statements；
save only the one concerning the picture （an apparently unforgivable
offense to his dignity）； is true； as the reader may easily ascertain for
himself。＇
Within a few weeks he was writing humorous accounts of 〃My Late
Senatorial Secretaryship；〃 〃Facts Concerning the Recent Resignation；〃
etc。； all good…natured burlesque； but inspired； we。 may believe； by the
change： These articles appeared in the New York Tribune； the New York
Citizen； and the Galaxy Magazine。
There appears to have been no ill…feeling at this time between Clemens
and Stewart。 If so； it is not discoverable in any of the former's
personal or newspaper correspondence。 In fact； in his article relating
to his 〃late senatorial secretaryship〃 he puts the joke； so far as it is
a joke； on Senator James W。 Nye； probably as an additional punishment for
Nye's failure to appear on the night of his lecture。 He established
headquarters with a brilliant newspaper correspondent named Riley。 〃One
of the best men in Washingtonor elsewhere；〃 he tells us in a brief
sketch of that person。 ＇See Riley； newspaper correspondent。 Sketches
New and Old。＇ He had known Riley in San Francisco； the two were
congenial； and settled down to their several undertakings。
Clemens was chiefly concerned over two things： he wished to make money
and he wished to secure a government appointment for Orion。 He had used
up the most of his lecture accumulations； and was moderately in debt。
His work was in demand at good rates； for those days； and with working
opportunity he could presently dispose of his financial problem。 The
Tribune was anxious for letters； the Enterprise and Alta were waiting for
them； the Herald； the Chicago Tribune； the magazinesall had solicited
contributions； the lecture bureaus pursued him。 Personally his