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alone。 If you understand me no better than THAT； sir and madam；
let me alone。 You mean very well； I dare say； but I don't like it；
and I won't come here again to have any more of it。'
Whatever is done for the comfort and advancement of the working man
must be so far done by himself as that it is maintained by himself。
And there must be in it no touch of condescension； no shadow of
patronage。 In the great working districts； this truth is studied
and understood。 When the American civil war rendered it necessary；
first in Glasgow； and afterwards in Manchester； that the working
people should be shown how to avail themselves of the advantages
derivable from system； and from the combination of numbers； in the
purchase and the cooking of their food； this truth was above all
things borne in mind。 The quick consequence was； that suspicion
and reluctance were vanquished； and that the effort resulted in an
astonishing and a complete success。
Such thoughts passed through my mind on a July morning of this
summer； as I walked towards Commercial Street （not Uncommercial
Street）； Whitechapel。 The Glasgow and Manchester system had been
lately set a…going there； by certain gentlemen who felt an interest
in its diffusion； and I had been attracted by the following hand…
bill printed on rose…coloured paper：
SELF…SUPPORTING
COOKING DEPOT
FOR THE WORKING CLASSES
Commercial…street； Whitechapel；
Where Accommodation is provided for Dining comfortably
300 Persons at a time。
Open from 7 A。M。 till 7 P。M。
PRICES。
All Articles of the BEST QUALITY。
Cup of Tea or Coffee One Penny
Bread and Butter One Penny
Bread and Cheese One Penny
Slice of bread One half…penny or
One Penny
Boiled Egg One Penny
Ginger Beer One Penny
The above Articles always ready。
Besides the above may be had； from 12 to 3 o'clock；
Bowl of Scotch Broth One Penny
Bowl of Soup One Penny
Plate of Potatoes One Penny
Plate of Minced Beef Twopence
Plate of Cold Beef Twopence
Plate of Cold Ham Twopence
Plate of Plum Pudding or Rice One Penny
As the Economy of Cooking depends greatly upon the simplicity of
the arrangements with which a great number of persons can be served
at one time； the Upper Room of this Establishment will be
especially set apart for a
PUBLIC DINNER EVERY DAY
From 12 till 3 o'clock；
CONSISTING OF THE FOLLOWING DISHES；
Bowl of Broth； or Soup；
Plate of Cold Beef or Ham；
Plate of Potatoes；
Plum Pudding； or Rice。
FIXED CHARGE 4。5D。
THE DAILY PAPERS PROVIDED。
N。B。 … This Establishment is conducted on the strictest business
principles； with the full intention of making it self…supporting；
so that every one may frequent it with a feeling of perfect
independence。
The assistance of all frequenting the Depot is confidently expected
in checking anything interfering with the comfort； quiet； and
regularity of the establishment。
Please do not destroy this Hand Bill； but hand it to some other
person whom it may interest。
The Self…Supporting Cooking Depot （not a very good name； and one
would rather give it an English one） had hired a newly…built
warehouse that it found to let； therefore it was not established in
premises specially designed for the purpose。 But； at a small cost
they were exceedingly well adapted to the purpose： being light；
well ventilated； clean； and cheerful。 They consisted of three
large rooms。 That on the basement story was the kitchen； that on
the ground floor was the general dining…room； that on the floor
above was the Upper Room referred to in the hand…bill； where the
Public Dinner at fourpence…halfpenny a head was provided every day。
The cooking was done； with much economy of space and fuel； by
American cooking…stoves； and by young women not previously； brought
up as cooks； the walls and pillars of the two dining…rooms were
agreeably brightened with ornamental colours； the tables were
capable of accommodating six or eight persons each； the attendants
were all young women； becomingly and neatly dressed； and dressed
alike。 I think the whole staff was female； with the exception of
the steward or manager。
My first inquiries were directed to the wages of this staff；
because； if any establishment claiming to be self…supporting； live
upon the spoliation of anybody or anything； or eke out a feeble
existence by poor mouths and beggarly resources （as too many so…
called Mechanics' Institutions do）； I make bold to express my
Uncommercial opinion that it has no business to live； and had
better die。 It was made clear to me by the account books； that
every person employed was properly paid。 My next inquiries were
directed to the quality of the provisions purchased； and to the
terms on which they were bought。 It was made equally clear to me
that the quality was the very best； and that all bills were paid
weekly。 My next inquiries were directed to the balance…sheet for
the last two weeks … only the third and fourth of the
establishment's career。 It was made equally clear to me； that
after everything bought was paid for； and after each week was
charged with its full share of wages； rent and taxes； depreciation
of plant in use； and interest on capital at the rate of four per
cent。 per annum； the last week had yielded a profit of （in round
numbers） one pound ten； and the previous week a profit of six
pounds ten。 By this time I felt that I had a healthy appetite for
the dinners。
It had just struck twelve； and a quick succession of faces had
already begun to appear at a little window in the wall of the
partitioned space where I sat looking over the books。 Within this
little window； like a pay…box at a theatre； a neat and brisk young
woman presided to take money and issue tickets。 Every one coming
in must take a ticket。 Either the fourpence…halfpenny ticket for
the upper room （the most popular ticket； I think）； or a penny
ticket for a bowl of soup； or as many penny tickets as he or she
choose to buy。 For three penny tickets one had quite a wide range
of choice。 A plate of cold boiled beef and potatoes； or a plate of
cold ham and potatoes； or a plate of hot minced beef and potatoes；
or a bowl of soup； bread and cheese； and a plate of plum…pudding。
Touching what they should have； some customers on taking their
seats fell into a reverie … became mildly distracted … postponed
decision； and said in bewilderment； they would think of it。 One
old man I noticed when I sat among the tables in the lower room；
who was startled by the bill of fare； and sat contemplating it as
if it were something of a ghostly nature。 The decision of the boys
was as rapid as their execution； and always included pudding。
There were several women among the diners； and several clerks and
shopmen。 There were carpenters and painters from the neighbouring
buildings under repair； and there were nautical men； and there
were； as one diner observed to me； 'some of most sorts。' Some were
solitary； some came two together； some dined in parties of three or
four； or six。 The latter talked together； but assuredly no one was
louder than at my club in Pall…Mall。 One young fellow whistled in
rather a shrill manner while he waited for his dinner； but I was
gratified to observe that he did so in evident defiance of my
Uncommercial individuality。 Quite agreeing with him； on
consideration； that I had no business to be there； unless I dined
like the rest； 'I went in；' as the phrase is； for fourpence…
halfpenny。
The room of the fourpence…halfpenny banquet had； like the lower
room； a counter in it； on which were ranged a great number of cold
portions ready for distribution。 Behind this counter； the fragrant
soup was steaming in deep cans； and the best…cooked of potatoes
were fished out of similar receptacles。 Nothing to eat was touched
with his hand。 Every waitress had her own tables to attend to。 As
soon as she saw a new customer seat himself at one of her tables；
she took from the counter all his dinner … his soup； potatoes；
meat； and pudding … piled it up dexterously in her two hands； set
it before him； and took his ticket。 This serving of the whole
dinner at once； had been found greatly to simplify the business of
attendance； and was also popular with the customers： who were thus
enabled to vary the meal by varying the routine of dishes：
beginning with soup…to…day； putting soup in the middle to…morrow；
putting soup at the end the day after to…morrow； and ringing
similar changes on meat and pudding。 The rapidity with which every
new…comer got served； was remarkable； and the dexterity with which
the waitresses （quite new to the art a month before） disch