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hospitality of these unsophisticated people； that I worked my way； by slow
degrees； chiefly on foot； into the part of the country I desired to visit； and I
trust that I in a measure repaid them for it by the stores of information
which I imparted to them； and of which they stood much in need； and by
little sketches of their homes and the surrounding scenery； with which I
presented them。 I was； indeed； dependent in some measure for hospitality
of this description； as I had taken no money with me； partly because； to
tell the truth； I had scarcely got any； and partly because I was afraid of
being robbed by brigands of the little I had。 I therefore eschewed the
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character of a /milordo Inglese/； but I never succeeded in dispelling all
suspicion that I might not be a nephew of the Queen； or at least a very near
relative of Palmerston in disguise。 It was so natural； seeing what a deep
interest both her Majesty and the Prime Minister took in Italy； that they
should send some one incognito whom they could trust to tell them all
about it。
Meantime； I was not surprised； when I came to know the disposition of
the inhabitants； at the success of brigandage。 It has never been my fortune
before or since to live among such a timid population。 One day at a large
town a leading landed proprietor received notice that if he did not pay a
certain sum in blackmail；I forget at this distance of time the exact
amount；his farm or /masseria/ would be robbed。 This farm； which was in
fact a handsome country house； was distant about ten miles from the town。
He therefore made an appeal to the citizens that they should arm
themselves and help him to defend his property； as he had determined not
to pay； and had taken steps to be informed as to the exact date when the
attack was to be made in default of payment。 More than three hundred
citizens enrolled themselves as willing to turn out in arms。 On the day
preceding the attack by the brigands； a rendezvous was given to these
three hundred on the great square for five in the morning； and thither I
accordingly repaired； unable； however； to induce my host to accompany
me； although he had signed as a volunteer。 On reaching the rendezvous； I
found the landed proprietor and a friend who was living with him； and
about ten minutes afterward two other volunteers strolled up。 Five was all
we could muster out of three hundred。 It was manifestly useless to attempt
anything with so small a force； and no arguments could induce any of the
others to turn out； so the unhappy gentleman had the satisfaction of
knowing that the brigands had punctually pillaged his place； carrying off
all his live stock on the very day and at the very hour they said they would。
As for the inhabitants venturing any distance from town； except under
military escort； such a thing was unknown； and all communication with
Naples was for some time virtually intercepted。 I was regarded as a sort of
monomaniac of recklessness because I ventured on a solitary walk of a
mile or two in search of a sketchan act of no great audacity on my part；
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for I had walked through various parts of the country without seeing a
brigand； and found it difficult to realise that there was any actual danger in
strolling a mile from a moderately large town。
Emboldened by impunity； I was tempted one day to follow up a most
romantic glen in search of a sketch； when I came upon a remarkably
handsome peasant girl； driving a donkey before her loaded with wood。 My
sudden appearance on the narrow path made the animal shy against a
projecting piece of rock； off which he rebounded to the edge of the path；
which； giving way； precipitated him and his load down the ravine。 He was
brought up unhurt against a bush some twenty feet below； the fagots of
wood being scattered in his descent in all directions。 For a moment the
girl's large； fierce eyes flashed upon me with anger； but the impetuosity
with which I went headlong after the donkey； with a view of repairing my
error； and the absurd attempts I made to reverse the position of his feet；
which were in the air； converted her indignation into a hearty fit of
laughter； as； seeing that the animal was apparently uninjured； she
scrambled down to my assistance。 By our united efforts we at last
succeeded in hoisting the donkey up to the path； and then I collected the
wood and helped her to load it againan operation which involved a
frequent meeting of hands and of the eyes； which had now lost the ferocity
that had startled me at first； and seemed getting more soft and beaming
every time I glanced at them； till at last； producing my sketch…book； I
ventured to remark； 〃Ah； signorina； what a picture you would make！ Now
that the ass is loaded； let me draw you before we part； that I may carry
away the recollection of the loveliest woman I have seen。〃
〃First draw the donkey；〃 she replied； 〃that I may carry away a
recollection of the /galantuomo/ who first upset him over the bank； and
then helped me to load him。〃
Smiling at this ambiguous compliment； I gave her the sketch she
desired； and was about to claim my reward； when she abruptly remarked：
〃There is not time now； it is getting late； and I must not linger； as I
have still an hour to go before reaching home。 How is it that you are not
afraid to be wandering in this solitary glen by yourself？ Do you not know
the risks？〃
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〃I have heard of them； but I do not believe in them；〃 I said； 〃besides； I
should be poor plunder for robbers。〃
〃But you have friends； who would pay to ransom you； I suppose； if
you were captured？〃
〃My life is not worth a hundred scudi to any of them；〃 I replied；
laughing； 〃but I am willing to forego the please of drawing you now；
/bellissima/； if you will tell me where you live； and let me come and paint
you there at my leisure。〃
〃You're a brave one；〃 she said； with a little laugh； 〃there is not another
man in all Ascoli who would dare to pay me a visit without an escort of
twenty soldiers。 But I am too grateful for your amiability to let you run
such a risk。 /Addio/； Signor Inglese。 There are many reasons why I can't
let you draw my picture； but I am not ungrateful； see！〃and she offered
me her cheek； on which I instantly imprinted a chaste and fraternal salute。
〃Don't think that you've seen the last of me； /carrissima/；〃 I called out；
as she turned away。 〃I shall live on the memory of that kiss till I have an
opportunity of repeating it。〃
And as I watched her retreating figure with an artist's eye； I was struck
with its grace and suppleness； combined； as I had observed while she was
helping me to lead the donkey； with an unusual degree of muscular
strength for a woman。
The spot at which this episode had taken place was so romantic that I
determined to make a sketch of it； and the shades of evening were closing
in so fast that they warned me to hurry if I would reach the town before
dark。 I had just finished it and was stooping to pick up by air…gun； when I
heard a sudden rush； and before I had time to look up I was thrown
violently forward on my face； and found myself struggling in the embrace
of a powerful grasp； from which I had nearly succeeded in freeing myself；
when the arms which were clasping me were reinforced by several more
pairs； and I felt a rope being passed round my body。
〃All right； signors！〃 I exclaimed。 〃I yield to superior numbers。 You
need not pull so hard； let me get up； and I promise to go with you quietly。〃
And by this time I ha