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and virtuous society in spite of the almost infinite distance of rank
and power；〃 where the monarch prides himself on being the perfect
master of a household。＇30＇ In fact； no drawing room was ever so well
kept up； nor so well calculated to retain its guests by every kind of
enjoyment； by the beauty； the dignity and the charm of its decoration；
by the selection of its company and by the interest of the spectacle。
Versailles is the only place to show oneself off； to make a figure； to
push one's way； to be amused； to converse or gossip at the head…
quarters of news； of activity and of public matters； with the élite of
the kingdom and the arbiters of fashion； elegance and taste。 〃Sire；〃
said M。 de Vardes to Louis XIV； 〃away from Your Majesty one not only
feels miserable but ridiculous。〃 None remain in the provinces except
the poor rural nobility； to live there one must be behind the age；
disheartened or in exile。 The king's banishment of a seignior to his
estates is the highest disgrace； to the humiliation of this fall is
added the insupportable weight of boredom。 The finest chateau on the
most beautiful site is a frightful 〃desert〃； nobody is seen there save
the grotesques of a small town or the village peasants。＇31＇
〃Exile alone；〃 says Arthur Young； 〃can force the French nobility to
do what the English prefer to do； and that is to live on their estates
and embellish them。〃
Saint…Simon and other court historians； on mentioning a ceremony；
repeatedly state that 〃all France was there〃； in fact； every one of
consequence in France is there； and each recognizes the other by this
sign。 Paris and the court become； accordingly； the necessary sojourn
of all fine people。 In such a situation departure begets departure；
the more a province is forsaken the more they forsake it。 〃There is
not in the kingdom；〃 says the Marquis de Mirabeau； 〃a single estate of
any size of which the proprietor is not in Paris and who；
consequently； neglects his buildings and chateaux。〃＇32＇ The lay grand
seigniors have their hotels in the capital； their entresol at
Versailles； and their pleasure…house within a circuit of twenty
leagues； if they visit their estates at long intervals； it is to hunt。
The fifteen hundred commendatory abbés and priors enjoy their
benefices as if they were so many remote farms。 The two thousand seven
hundred vicars and canons visit each other and dine out。 With the
exception of a few apostolic characters the one hundred and thirty…one
bishops stay at home as little as they can； nearly all of them being
nobles； all of them men of society； what could they do out of the
world； confined to a provincial town？ Can we imagine a grand seignior；
once a gay and gallant abbé and now a bishop with a hundred thousand
livres income； voluntarily burying himself for the entire year at
Mende； at Comminges； in a paltry cloister？ The interval has become too
great between the refined； varied and literary life of the great
center； and the monotonous； inert； practical life of the provinces。
Hence it is that the grand seignior who withdraws from the former
cannot enter into the latter； and he remains an absentee； at least in
feeling。
A country in which the heart ceases to impel the blood through its
veins presents a somber aspect。 Arthur Young； who traveled over France
between 1787 and 1789； is surprised to find at once such a vital
center and such dead extremities。 Between Paris and Versailles the
double file of vehicles going and coming extends uninterruptedly for
five leagues from morning till night。＇33＇ The contrast on other roads
is very great。 Leaving Paris by the Orleans road； says Arthur Young；
〃we met not one stage or diligence for ten miles； only two messageries
and very few chaises； not a tenth of what would have been met had we
been leaving London at the same hour。〃 On the highroad near Narbonne；
〃for thirty…six miles；〃 he says； 〃I came across but one cabriolet；
half a dozen carts and a few women leading asses。〃 Elsewhere； near St。
Girons； he notices that in two hundred and fifty miles he encountered
in all； 〃two cabriolets and three miserable things similar to our old
one…horse post chaise； and not one gentleman。〃 Throughout this country
the inns are execrable； it is impossible to hire a wagon； while in
England； even in a town of fifteen hundred or two thousand
inhabitants； there are comfortable hotels and every means of
transport。 This proves that in France 〃there is no circulation。〃 It is
only in very large towns that there is any civilization and comfort。
At Nantes there is a superb theater 〃twice as large as Drury…Lane and
five times as magnificent。 Mon Dieu！ I cried to myself； do all these
wastes； moors； and deserts； that I have passed for 300 miles lead to
this spectacle？ 。 。 。 In a single leap you pass from misery to
extravagance； 。。。the country deserted； or if a gentleman in it； you
find him in some wretched hole to save that money which is lavished
with profusion in the luxuries of a capital。〃 〃A coach；〃 says M。 de
Montlosier； 〃set out weekly from the principal towns in the provinces
for Paris and was not always full； which tells us about the activity
in business。 There was a single journal called the Gazette de France；
appearing twice a week； which represents the activity of minds。〃＇34＇
Some magistrates of Paris in exile at Bourges in 1753 and 1754 give
the following picture of that place：
〃A town in which no one can be found with whom you can talk at
your ease on any topic whatever； reasonably or sensibly。 The nobles；
three…fourths of them dying of hunger； rotting with pride of birth；
keeping apart from men of the robe and of finance； and finding it
strange that the daughter of a tax…collector； married to a counselor
of the parliament of Paris； should presume to be intelligent and
entertain company。 The citizens are of the grossest ignorance； the
sole support of this species of lethargy in which the minds of most of
the inhabitants are plunged。 Women； bigoted and pretentious； and much
given to play and to gallantry。〃＇35＇
In this impoverished and benumbed society； among these Messieurs
Thibaudeau； the counselor； and Harpin； the tax…collector； among these
vicomtes de Sotenville and Countesses d'Escarbagnas； lives the
Archbishop； Cardinal de Larochefoucauld； grand almoner to the king；
provided with four great abbeys； possessing five hundred thousand
livres income； a man of the world； generally an absentee； and when at
home； finding amusement in the embellishing of his gardens and palace；
in short； the golden pheasant of an aviary in a poultry yard of
geese。＇36＇ Naturally there is an entire absence of political thought。
〃You cannot imagine；〃 says the manuscript； 〃a person more indifferent
to all public matters。〃 At a later period； in the very midst of events
of the gravest character； and which most nearly concern them； there is
the same apathy。 At Chateau…Thierry on the 4th of July； 1789；＇37＇
there is not a café in which a new paper can be found； there is but
one at Dijon； at Moulins； the 7th of August； 〃in the best café in the
town； where I found near twenty tables set for company； but as for a
newspaper I might as well have demanded an elephant。〃 Between
Strasbourg and Besan？on there is not a gazette。 At Besan？on there is
〃nothing but the Gazette de France； for which； this period； a man of
common sense would not give one sol； 。 。 。 and the Courier de l'Europe
a fortnight old； and well…dressed people are now talking of the news
of two or three weeks past； and plainly by their discourse know
nothing of what is passing。 At Clermont 〃I dined； or supped； five
times at the table d'h？te with from twenty to thirty merchants； trade
men； officers； etc。； and it is not easy for me to express the
insignificance； … the inanity of their conversation。 Scarcely any
politics are mentioned at a moment when every bosom ought to beat with
none but political sensations。 The ignorance or the stupidity of these
people must be absolutely incredible； not a week passes without their
country abounding with events＇38＇ that are analyzed an debated by the
carpenters and blacksmiths of England。〃 The cause of this inertia is
manifest； interrogated on their opinions； all reply： 〃We are of the
provinces and we must wait to know what is going on in Paris。〃 Never
having acted； they do no know how to act。 But； thanks to this inertia；
they let themselves be driven。 The provinces form an immense stagnant
pond； which； by a terrible inundation； may be emptied exclusively on
one side； and suddenly； the fault lies with the engineers who failed
to provide it with either dikes or outlets。
Such is the languor or； rather； the prostration； into which local
life falls when the local chiefs deprive it of their presence； action
or sympathy。 I find only three or four grand seigniors taking a part
in it； practical philanthropists following the examp