按键盘上方向键 ← 或 → 可快速上下翻页，按键盘上的 Enter 键可回到本书目录页，按键盘上方向键 ↑ 可回到本页顶部！
————未阅读完？加入书签已便下次继续阅读！
ut of the bear。
After a struggle of five hours we emerged from the balsams and briers into a lovely open meadow； of lush clover； timothy； and blue grass。 We unsaddled the horses and turned them loose to feed in it。 The meadow sloped up to a belt of balsams and firs； a steep rocky knob； and climbing that on foot we stood upon the summit of Mitchell at one o'clock。 We were none too soon； for already the clouds were preparing for what appears to be a daily storm at this season。
The summit is a nearly level spot of some thirty or forty feet in extent either way； with a floor of rock and loose stones。 The stunted balsams have been cut away so as to give a view。 The sweep of prospect is vast； and we could see the whole horizon except in the direction of Roan； whose long bulk was enveloped in cloud。 Portions of six States were in sight； we were told； but that is merely a geographical expression。 What we saw； wherever we looked； was an inextricable tumble of mountains； without order or leading line of direction；domes； peaks； ridges； endless and countless； everywhere； some in shadow； some tipped with shafts of sunlight； all wooded and green or black； and all in more softened contours than our Northern hills； but still wild； lonesome； terrible。 Away in the southwest； lifting themselves up in a gleam of the western sky； the Great Smoky Mountains loomed like a frowning continental fortress； sullen and remote。 With Clingman and Gibbs and Holdback peaks near at hand and apparently of equal height； Mitchell seemed only a part and not separate from the mighty congregation of giants。
In the center of the stony plot on the summit lie the remains of Mitchell。 To dig a grave in the rock was impracticable； but the loose stones were scooped away to the depth of a foot or so； the body was deposited； and the stones were replaced over it。 It was the original intention to erect a monument； but the enterprise of the projectors of this royal entombment failed at that point。 The grave is surrounded by a low wall of loose stones； to which each visitor adds one； and in the course of ages the cairn may grow to a good size。 The explorer lies there without name or headstone to mark his awful resting…place。 The mountain is his monument。 He is alone with its majesty。 He is there in the clouds； in the tempests； where the lightnings play； and thunders leap； amid the elemental tumult； in the occasional great calm and silence and the pale sunlight。 It is the most majestic； the most lonesome grave on earth。
As we sat there； awed a little by this presence； the clouds were gathering from various quarters and drifting towards us。 We could watch the process of thunder…storms and the manufacture of tempests。 I have often noticed on other high mountains how the clouds； forming like genii released from the earth； mount into the upper air； and in masses of torn fragments of mist hurry across the sky as to a rendezvous of witches。 This was a different display。 These clouds came slowly sailing from the distant horizon； like ships on an aerial voyage。 Some were below us； some on our level； they were all in well…defined； distinct masses； molten silver on deck； below trailing rain； and attended on earth by gigantic shadows that moved with them。 This strange fleet of battle…ships； drifted by the shifting currents； was maneuvering for an engagement。 One after another； as they came into range about our peak of observation； they opened fire。 Sharp flashes of lightning darted from one to the other； a jet of flame from one leaped across the interval and was buried in the bosom of its adversary； and at every discharge the boom of great guns echoed through the mountains。 It was something more than a royal salute to the tomb of the mortal at our feet； for the masses of cloud were rent in the fray； at every discharge the rain was precipitated in increasing torrents； and soon the vast hulks were trailing torn fragments and wreaths of mist； like the shot…away shrouds and sails of ships in battle。 Gradually； from this long…range practice with single guns and exchange of broadsides； they drifted into closer conflict； rushed together； and we lost sight of the individual combatants in the general tumult of this aerial war。
We had barely twenty minutes for our observations； when it was time to go； and had scarcely left the peak when the clouds enveloped it。 We hastened down under the threatening sky to the saddles and the luncheon。 Just off from the summit； amid the rocks； is a complete arbor； or tunnel； of rhododendrons。 This cavernous place a Western writer has made the scene of a desperate encounter between Big Tom and a catamount； or American panther； which had been caught in a trap and dragged it there； pursued by Wilson。 It is an exceedingly graphic narrative； and is enlivened by the statement that Big Tom had the night before drunk up all the whisky of the party which had spent the night on the summit。 Now Big Tom assured us that the whisky part of the story was an invention； he was not （which is true） in the habit of using it； if he ever did take any； it might be a drop on Mitchell； in fact； when he inquired if we had a flask； he remarked that a taste of it would do him good then and there。 We regretted the lack of it in our baggage。 But what inclined Big Tom to discredit the Western writer's story altogether was the fact that he never in his life had had a difficulty with a catamount； and never had seen one in these mountains。
Our lunch was eaten in haste。 Big Tom refused the chicken he had provided for us； and strengthened himself with slices of raw salt pork； which he cut from a hunk with his clasp…knife。 We caught and saddled our horses； who were reluctant to leave the rich feed； enveloped ourselves in waterproofs； and got into the stony path for the descent just as the torrent came down。 It did rain。 It lightened； the thunder crashed； the wind howled and twisted the treetops。 It was as if we were pursued by the avenging spirits of the mountains for our intrusion。 Such a tempest on this height had its terrors even for our hardy guide。 He preferred to be lower down while it was going on。 The crash and reverberation of the thunder did not trouble us so much as the swish of the wet branches in our faces and the horrible road； with its mud； tripping roots； loose stones； and slippery rocks。 Progress was slow。 The horses were in momentary danger of breaking their legs。 In the first hour there was not much descent。 In the clouds we were passing over Clingman； Gibbs； and Holdback。 The rain had ceased； but the mist still shut off all view； if any had been attainable； and bushes and paths were deluged。 The descent was more uncomfortable than the ascent； and we were compelled a good deal of the way to lead the jaded horses down the slippery rocks。
》From the peak to the Widow Patten's； where we proposed to pass the night； is twelve miles； a distance we rode or scrambled down； every step of the road bad； in five and a half hours。 Halfway down we came out upon a cleared place； a farm； with fruit…trees and a house in ruins。 Here had been a summer hotel much resorted to before the war； but now abandoned。 Above it we turned aside for the view from Elizabeth rock； named from the daughter of the proprietor of the hotel； who often sat here； said Big Tom； before she went out of this world。 It is a bold rocky ledge； and the view from it； looking south； is unquestionably the finest； the most pleasing and picture… like； we found in these mountains。 In the foreground is the deep gorge of a branch of the Swannanoa； and opposite is the great wall of the Blue Ridge （the Blue Ridge is the most capricious and inexplicable system） making off to the Blacks。 The depth of the gorge； the sweep of the sky line； and the reposeful aspect of the scene to the sunny south made this view both grand and charming。 Nature does not always put the needed dash of poetry into her extensive prospects。
Leaving this clearing and the now neglected spring； where fashion used to slake its thirst； we zigzagged down the mountain…side through a forest of trees growing at every step larger and nobler； and at length struck a small stream； the North Fork of the Swannanoa； which led us to the first settlement。 Just at night；it was nearly seven o'clock；we entered one of the most stately forests I have ever seen； and rode for some distance in an alley of rhododendrons that arched overhead and made a bower。 It was like an aisle in a temple； high overhead was the somber； leafy roof； supported by gigantic columns。 Few widows have such an avenue of approach to their domain as the Widow Patten has。
Cheering as this outcome was from the day's struggle and storm； the Professor seemed sunk in a profound sadness。 The auguries which the Friend drew from these signs of civilization of a charming inn and a royal supper did not lighten the melancholy of his mind。 〃Alas；〃 he said；
〃Why didst thou promise such a beauteous day； And make me travel forth without my cloak； To let base clouds o'ertake me in my way； Hiding thy bravery in their rotten smoke？ 'T is not enough that through the cloud thou break； To dry the rain on my storm…beaten face； For no man wel