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declared; or to blow finally off; living in the meanwhile in 
a kind of children's hour of firelight and shadow and 
preposterous tales; the king seen at night galloping up our 
road upon unknown errands and covering his face as he passes 
our cook; Mataafa daily surrounded (when he awakes) with 
fresh 'white man's boxes' (query; ammunition?) and professing 
to be quite ignorant of where they come from; marches of 
bodies of men across the island; concealment of ditto in the 
bush; the coming on and off of different chiefs; and such a 
mass of ravelment and rag…tag as the devil himself could not 
unwind。
WEDNESDAY; 28TH JUNE。
Yesterday it rained with but little intermission; but I was 
jealous of news。  Graham and I got into the saddle about 1 
o'clock and off down to town。  In town; there was nothing but 
rumours going; in the night drums had been beat; the men had 
run to arms on Mulinuu from as far as Vaiala; and the alarm 
proved false。  There were no signs of any gathering in Apia 
proper; and the Secretary of State had no news to give。  I 
believed him; too; for we are brither Scots。  Then the 
temptation came upon me strong to go on to the ford and see 
the Mataafa villages; where we heard there was more afoot。  
Off we rode。  When we came to Vaimusu; the houses were very 
full of men; but all seemingly unarmed。  Immediately beyond 
is that river over which we passed in our scamper with Lady 
Jersey; it was all solitary。  Three hundred yards beyond is a 
second ford; and there … I came face to face with war。  Under 
the trees on the further bank sat a picket of seven men with 
Winchesters; their faces bright; their eyes ardent。  As we 
came up; they did not speak or move; only their eyes followed 
us。  The horses drank; and we passed the ford。  'Talofa!' I 
said; and the commandant of the picket said 'Talofa'; and 
then; when we were almost by; remembered himself and asked 
where we were going。  'To Faamuina;' I said; and we rode on。  
Every house by the wayside was crowded with armed men。  There 
was the European house of a Chinaman on the right…hand side: 
a flag of truce flying over the gate … indeed we saw three of 
these in what little way we penetrated into Mataafa's lines … 
all the foreigners trying to protect their goods; and the 
Chinaman's verandah overflowed with men and girls and 
Winchesters。  By the way we met a party of about ten or a 
dozen marching with their guns and cartridge…belts; and the 
cheerful alacrity and brightness of their looks set my head 
turning with envy and sympathy。  Arrived at Vaiusu; the 
houses about the MALAE (village green) were thronged with 
men; all armed。  On the outside of the council…house (which 
was all full within) there stood an orator; he had his back 
turned to his audience; and seemed to address the world at 
large; all the time we were there his strong voice continued 
unabated; and I heard snatches of political wisdom rising and 
falling。
The house of Faamuina stands on a knoll in the MALAE。  
Thither we mounted; a boy ran out and took our horses; and we 
went in。  Faamuina was there himself; his wife Pelepa; three 
other chiefs; and some attendants; and here again was this 
exulting spectacle as of people on their marriage day。  
Faamuina (when I last saw him) was an elderly; limping 
gentleman; with much of the debility of age; it was a bright…
eyed boy that greeted me; the lady was no less excited; all 
had cartridge…belts。  We stayed but a little while to smoke a 
sului; I would not have kava made; as I thought my escapade 
was already dangerous (perhaps even blameworthy) enough。  On 
the way back; we were much greeted; and on coming to the 
ford; the commandant came and asked me if there were many on 
the other side。  'Very many;' said I; not that I knew; but I 
would not lead them on the ice。  'That is well!' said he; and 
the little picket laughed aloud as we splashed into the 
river。  We returned to Apia; through Apia; and out to 
windward as far as Vaiala; where the word went that the men 
of the Vaimauga had assembled。  We met two boys carrying 
pigs; and saw six young men busy cooking in a cook…house; but 
no sign of an assembly; no arms; no blackened faces。  I 
forgot!  As we turned to leave Faamuina's; there ran forward 
a man with his face blackened; and the back of his lava…lava 
girded up so as to show his tattooed hips naked; he leaped 
before us; cut a wonderful caper; and flung his knife high in 
the air; and caught it。  It was strangely savage and 
fantastic and high…spirited。  I have seen a child doing the 
same antics long before in a dance; so that it is plainly an 
ACCEPTED SOLEMNITY。  I should say that for weeks the children 
have been playing with spears。  Up by the plantation I took a 
short cut; which shall never be repeated; through grass and 
weeds over the horses' heads and among rolling stones; I 
thought we should have left a horse there; but fortune 
favoured us。  So home; a little before six; in a dashing 
squall of rain; to a bowl of kava and dinner。  But the 
impression on our minds was extraordinary; the sight of that 
picket at the ford; and those ardent; happy faces whirls in 
my head; the old aboriginal awoke in both of us and knickered 
like a stallion。
It is dreadful to think that I must sit apart here and do 
nothing; I do not know if I can stand it out。  But you see; I 
may be of use to these poor people; if I keep quiet; and if I 
threw myself in; I should have a bad job of it to save 
myself。  There; I have written this to you; and it is still 
but 7。30 in the day; and the sun only about one hour up; can 
I go back to my old grandpapa; and men sitting with 
Winchesters in my mind's eye?  No; war is a huge 
ENTRAINEMENT; there is no other temptation to be compared to 
it; not one。  We were all wet; we had been about five hours 
in the saddle; mostly riding hard; and we came home like 
schoolboys; with such a lightness of spirits; and I am sure 
such a brightness of eye; as you could have lit a candle at!
THURSDAY 29TH。
I had two priests to luncheon yesterday: the Bishop and Pere 
Remy。  They were very pleasant; and quite clean too; which 
has been known sometimes not to be … even with bishops。  
Monseigneur is not unimposing; with his white beard and his 
violet girdle he looks splendidly episcopal; and when our 
three waiting lads came up one after another and kneeled 
before him in the big hall; and kissed his ring; it did me 
good for a piece of pageantry。  Remy is very engaging; he is 
a little; nervous; eager man; like a governess; and brimful 
of laughter and small jokes。  So is the bishop indeed; and 
our luncheon party went off merrily … far more merrily than 
many a German spread; though with so much less liquor。  One 
trait was delicious。  With a complete ignorance of the 
Protestant that I would scarce have imagined; he related to 
us (as news) little stories from the gospels; and got the 
names all wrong!  His comments were delicious; and to our 
ears a thought irreverent。  'AH! IL CONNAISSAIT SON MONDE; 
ALLEZ!'  'IL ETAIT FIN; NOTRE SEIGNEUR!' etc。
FRIDAY。
Down with Fanny and Belle; to lunch at the International。  
Heard there about the huge folly of the hour; all the Mulinuu 
ammunition having been yesterday marched openly to vaults in 
Matafele; and this morning; on a cry of protest from the 
whites; openly and humiliatingly disinterred and marched back 
again。  People spoke of it with a kind of shrill note that 
did not quite satisfy me。  They seemed not quite well at 
ease。  Luncheon over; we rode out on the Malie road。  All was 
quiet in Vaiusu; and when we got to the second ford; alas! 
there was no picket … which was just what Belle had come to 
sketch。  On through quite empty roads; the houses deserted; 
never a gun to be seen; and at last a drum and a penny 
whistle playing in Vaiusu; and a cricket match on the MALAE!  
Went up to Faamuina's; he is a trifle uneasy; though he gives 
us kava。  I cannot see what ails him; then it appears that he 
has an engagement with the Chief Justice at half…past two to 
sell a piece of land。  Is this the reason why war has 
disappeared?  We ride back; stopping to sketch here and there 
the fords; a flag of truce; etc。  I ride on to Public Hall 
Committee and pass an hour with my committees very heavily。  
To the hotel to dinner; then to the ball; and home by eleven; 
very tired。  At the ball I heard some news; of how the chief 
of Letonu said that I was the source of all this trouble; and 
should be punished; and my family as well。  This; and the 
rudeness of the man at the ford of the Gase…gase; looks but 
ill; I should have said that Faamuina; as he approached the 
first ford; was spoken to by a girl; and immediately said 
goodbye and plunged into the bush; the girl had tol