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gaze； the expression began to change； he had the exact air of
closing one eye； dropping his jaw； and drawing down his nose；
had the thing not been so imposing； I could have smiled； and
then almost in a moment； a shoulder of leaden…coloured bank
drove in front and blotted it。 My attention spread to the
rest of the cloud； and it was a thing to worship。 It rose
from the horizon； and its top was within thirty degrees of
the zenith； the lower parts were like a glacier in shadow；
varying from dark indigo to a clouded white in exquisite
gradations。 The sky behind； so far as I could see； was all
of a blue already enriched and darkened by the night； for the
hill had what lingered of the sunset。 But the top of my
Titanic cloud flamed in broad sunlight； with the most
excellent softness and brightness of fire and jewels；
enlightening all the world。 It must have been far higher
than Mount Everest； and its glory； as I gazed up at it out of
the night； was beyond wonder。 Close by rode the little
crescent moon； and right over its western horn； a great
planet of about equal lustre with itself。 The dark woods
below were shrill with that noisy business of the birds'
evening worship。 When I returned； after eight； the moon was
near down； she seemed little brighter than before； but now
that the cloud no longer played its part of a nocturnal sun；
we could see that sight； so rare with us at home that it was
counted a portent； so customary in the tropics； of the dark
sphere with its little gilt band upon the belly。 The planet
had been setting faster； and was now below the crescent。
They were still of an equal brightness。
I could not resist trying to reproduce this in words； as a
specimen of these incredibly beautiful and imposing meteors
of the tropic sky that make so much of my pleasure here；
though a ship's deck is the place to enjoy them。 O what
AWFUL scenery； from a ship's deck； in the tropics！ People
talk about the Alps； but the clouds of the trade wind are
alone for sublimity。
Now to try and tell you what has been happening。 The state
of these islands； and of Mataafa and Laupepa （Malietoa's
AMBO） had been much on my mind。 I went to the priests and
sent a message to Mataafa； at a time when it was supposed he
was about to act。 He did not act； delaying in true native
style； and I determined I should go to visit him。 I have
been very good not to go sooner； to live within a few miles
of a rebel camp； to be a novelist； to have all my family
forcing me to go； and to refrain all these months； counts for
virtue。 But hearing that several people had gone and the
government done nothing to punish them； and having an errand
there which was enough to justify myself in my own eyes； I
half determined to go； and spoke of it with the half…caste
priest。 And here （confound it） up came Laupepa and his
guards to call on me； we kept him to lunch； and the old
gentleman was very good and amiable。 He asked me why I had
not been to see him？ I reminded him a law had been made； and
told him I was not a small boy to go and ask leave of the
consuls； and perhaps be refused。 He told me to pay no
attention to the law but come when I would； and begged me to
name a day to lunch。 The next day （I think it was） early in
the morning； a man appeared； he had metal buttons like a
policeman … but he was none of our Apia force； he was a rebel
policeman； and had been all night coming round inland through
the forest from Malie。 He brought a letter addressed
I LAUA SUSUGA To his Excellency
MISI MEA。 Mr。 Thingumbob。
（So as not to compromise me）。 I can read Samoan now； though
not speak it。 It was to ask me for last Wednesday。 My
difficulty was great； I had no man here who was fit； or who
would have cared to write for me； and I had to postpone the
visit。 So I gave up half…a…day with a groan； went down to
the priests； arranged for Monday week to go to Malie； and
named Thursday as my day to lunch with Laupepa。 I was
sharply ill on Wednesday； mail day。 But on Thursday I had to
trail down and go through the dreary business of a feast； in
the King's wretched shanty； full in view of the President's
fine new house； it made my heart burn。
This gave me my chance to arrange a private interview with
the King； and I decided to ask Mr。 Whitmee； one of our
missionaries； to be my interpreter。 On Friday； being too
much exhausted to go down； I begged him to come up。 He did；
I told him the heads of what I meant to say； and he not only
consented； but said； if we got on well with the King； he
would even proceed with me to Malie。 Yesterday； in
consequence； I rode down to W。's house by eight in the
morning； waited till ten； received a message that the King
was stopped by a meeting with the President and FAIPULE； made
another engagement for seven at night； came up； went down；
waited till eight； and came away again； BREDOUILLE； and a
dead body。 The poor； weak； enslaved King had not dared to
come to me even in secret。 Now I have to…day for a rest； and
to…morrow to Malie。 Shall I be suffered to embark？ It is
very doubtful； they are on the trail。 On Thursday； a
policeman came up to me and began that a boy had been to see
him； and said I was going to see Mataafa。 … 'And what did
you say？' said I。 … 'I told him I did not know about where
you were going；' said he。 … 'A very good answer；' said I； and
turned away。 It is lashing rain to…day； but to…morrow； rain
or shine； I must at least make the attempt； and I am so
weary； and the weather looks so bad。 I could half wish they
would arrest me on the beach。 All this bother and pother to
try and bring a little chance of peace； all this opposition
and obstinacy in people who remain here by the mere
forbearance of Mataafa； who has a great force within six
miles of their government buildings； which are indeed only
the residences of white officials。 To understand how I have
been occupied； you must know that 'Misi Mea' has had another
letter； and this time had to answer himself； think of doing
so in a language so obscure to me； with the aid of a Bible；
concordance and dictionary！ What a wonderful Baboo
compilation it must have been！ I positively expected to hear
news of its arrival in Malie by the sound of laughter。 I
doubt if you will be able to read this scrawl； but I have
managed to scramble somehow up to date； and to…morrow； one
way or another； should be interesting。 But as for me； I am a
wreck； as I have no doubt style and handwriting both testify。
8 P。M。
Wonderfully rested； feel almost fit for to…morrow's dreary
excursion … not that it will be dreary if the weather favour；
but otherwise it will be death； and a native feast； and I
fear I am in for a big one； is a thing I loathe。 I wonder if
you can really conceive me as a politician in this extra…
mundane sphere … presiding at public meetings； drafting
proclamations； receiving mis…addressed letters that have been
carried all night through tropical forests？ It seems strange
indeed； and to you； who know me really； must seem stranger。
I do not say I am free from the itch of meddling； but God
knows this is no tempting job to meddle in； I smile at
picturesque circumstances like the Misi Mea （MONSIEUR CHOSE
is the exact equivalent） correspondence； but the business as
a whole bores and revolts me。 I do nothing and say nothing；
and then a day comes； and I say 'this can go on no longer。'
9。30 P。 M。
The wretched native dilatoriness finds me out。 News has just
come that we must embark at six to…morrow； I have divided the
night in watches； and hope to be called to…morrow at four and
get under way by five。 It is a great chance if it be
managed； but I have given directions and lent my own clock to
the boys； and hope the best。 If I get called at four we
shall do it nicely。 Good…night； I must turn in。
MAY 3RD。
Well； we did get off by about 5。30； or； by'r lady！ quarter of
six： myself on Donald； the huge grey cart…horse； with a ship…
bag across my saddle bow； Fanny on Musu and Belle on Jack。
We were all feeling pretty tired and sick； and I looked like
heaven knows what on the cart horse： 'death on the pale
horse；' I suggested … and young Hunt the missionary； who met
me to…day on the same charger； squinted up at my perch and
remarked； 'There's a sweet little cherub that sits up aloft。'
The boat was ready and we set off down the lagoon about
seven； four oars； and Talolo； my cook； steering。
MAY 9TH （MONDAY ANYWAY）。
And see what good resolutions came to！ Here is all this time
past； and no speed made。 Well； we got to Malie and were
received with the most friendly consideration by the rebel
chief。 Belle and Fanny were obviously t