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speculation that turned all Rome upside down in the years following 1870
and Italian unity； when they naively imagined their new capital was to
become again after seventeen centuries the metropolis of the world。 Whole
quarters of new houses were run up for a population that failed to appear；
these houses now stand empty and are fast going to ruin。 So that little in
the way of entertaining is to be expected from the bankrupts。 They are a
genial race； these Italian nobles； and welcome rich strangers and marry
them with much enthusiasm … just a shade too much； perhaps … the girl
counting for so little and her DOT for so much in the matrimonial scale。 It
is only necessary to keep open house to have the pick of the younger ones
as your guests。 They will come to entertainments at American houses and
bring all their relations； and dance； and dine； and flirt with great good
humor and persistency； but if there is not a good solid fortune in the
background； in the best of securities； the prettiest American smiles never
tempt them beyond flirtation； the season over； they disappear up into their
mountain villas to wait for a new importation from the States。
In Rome； as well as in the other Italian cities； there are； of course； still
to be found Americans in some numbers （where on the Continent will you
not find them？）； living quietly for study or economy。 But they are not
numerous or united enough to form a society； and are apt to be involved in
bitter strife among themselves。
Why； you ask； should Americans quarrel among themselves？
Some years ago I was passing the summer months on the Rhine at a
tiny German watering…place； principally frequented by English； who were
all living together in great peace and harmony； until one fatal day； when an
Earl appeared。 He was a poor Irish Earl； very simple and unoffending； but
he brought war into that town； heart… burnings； envy； and backbiting。 The
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English colony at once divided itself into two camps； those who knew the
Earl and those who did not。 And peace fled from our little society。 You
will find in every foreign capital among the resident Americans； just such
a state of affairs as convulsed that German spa。 The native 〃swells〃 have
come to be the apple of discord that divides our good people among
themselves。 Those who have been successful in knowing the foreigners
avoid their compatriots and live with their new friends； while the other
group who； from laziness； disinclination； or principle （？） have remained
true to their American circle； cannot resist calling the others snobs； and
laughing （a bit enviously； perhaps） at their upward struggles。
It is the same in Florence。 The little there was left of an American
society went to pieces on that rock。 Our parents forty years ago seem to
me to have been much more self…respecting and sensible。 They knew
perfectly well that there was nothing in common between themselves and
the Italian nobility； and that those good people were not going to put
themselves out to make the acquaintance of a lot of strangers； mostly of
another religion； unless it was to be materially to their advantage。 So they
left them quietly alone。 I do not pretend to judge any one's motives； but
confess I cannot help regarding with suspicion a foreigner who leaves his
own circle to mingle with strangers。 It resembles too closely the
amiabilities of the wolf for the lamb； or the sudden politeness of a school…
boy to a little girl who has received a box of candies。
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CHAPTER 37 … The Newport of the
Past
FEW of the 〃carriage ladies and gentlemen〃 who disport themselves
in Newport during the summer months； yachting and dancing through the
short season； then flitting away to fresh fields and pastures new； realize
that their daintily shod feet have been treading historic ground； or care to
cast a thought back to the past。 Oddly enough； to the majority of people
the past is a volume rarely opened。 Not that it bores them to read it； but
because they； like children； want some one to turn over its yellow leaves
and point out the pictures to them。 Few of the human motes that dance in
the rays of the afternoon sun as they slant across the little Park； think of
the fable which asserts that a sea…worn band of adventurous men； centuries
before the Cabots or the Genoese discoverer thought of crossing the
Atlantic； had pushed bravely out over untried seas and landed on this
rocky coast。 Yet one apparent evidence of their stay tempts our thoughts
back to the times when it is said to have been built as a bower for a king's
daughter。 Longfellow； in the swinging verse of his 〃Skeleton in Armor；〃
breathing of the sea and the Norseman's fatal love； has thrown such a
glamour of poetry around the tower； that one would fain believe all he
relates。 The hardy Norsemen； if they ever came here； succumbed in their
struggle with the native tribes； or； discouraged by death and hardships；
sailed away； leaving the clouds of oblivion to close again darkly around
this continent； and the fog of discussion to circle around the 〃Old Mill。〃
The little settlement of another race； speaking another tongue； that
centuries later sprang up in the shadow of the tower； quickly grew into a
busy and prosperous city； which； like New York； its rival； was captured
and held by the English。 To walk now through some of its quaint； narrow
streets is to step back into Revolutionary days。 Hardly a house has
changed since the time when the red coats of the British officers
brightened the prim perspectives； and turned loyal young heads as they
passed。
At the corner of Spring and Pelham Streets； still stands the residence
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of General Prescott； who was carried away prisoner by his opponents； they
having rowed down in whale…boats from Providence for the attack。
Rochambeau； our French ally； lodged lower down in Mary Street。 In the
tower of Trinity； one can read the epitaph of the unfortunate Chevalier de
Ternay； commander of the sea forces； whose body lies near by。 Many years
later his relative； the Duc de Noailles； when Minister to this country； had
this simple tablet repaired and made a visit to the spot。
A long period of prosperity followed the Revolution； during which
Newport grew and flourished。 Our pious and God…fearing 〃forbears；〃
having secured personal and religious liberty； proceeded to inaugurate a
most successful and remunerative trade in rum and slaves。 It was a
triangular transaction and yielded a three…fold profit。 The simple
population of that day； numbering less than ten thousand souls； possessed
twenty distilleries； finding it a physical impossibility to drink ALL the rum；
they conceived the happy thought of sending the surplus across to the
coast of Africa； where it appears to have been much appreciated by the
native chiefs； who eagerly exchanged the pick of their loyal subjects for
that liquid。 These poor brutes were taken to the West Indies and exchanged
for sugar； laden with which； the vessels returned to Newport。
Having introduced the dusky chieftains to the charms of delirium
tremens and their subjects to life…long slavery； one can almost see these
pious deacons proceeding to church to offer up thanks for the return of
their successful vessels。 Alas！ even 〃the best laid schemes of mice and
men〃 come to an end。 The War of 1812； the opening of the Erie Canal and
sundry railways struck a blow at Newport commerce； from which it never
recovered。 The city sank into oblivion； and for over thirty years not a