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material situation； whom they support with their slowly earned wages；
what claims they have on them from outside。 If she will also reflect on the
number of days in a year when she is 〃not herself；〃 when headaches or
disappointments ruffle her charming temper； she may come to the
conclusion that it is too much to expect all the virtues for twenty dollars a
month。
A little more human interest； my good friends； a little more indulgence；
and you will not risk finding yourself in the position of the lady who wrote
me that last summer she had been obliged to keep open house for 〃'Cook'
tourists！〃
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CHAPTER 22 … An English
Invasion of the Riviera
WHEN sixty years ago Lord Brougham； EN ROUTE for Italy； was
thrown from his travelling berline and his leg was broken； near the Italian
hamlet of Cannes； the Riviera was as unknown to the polite world as the
centre of China。 The GRAND TOUR which every young aristocrat made
with his tutor； on coming of age； only included crossing from France into
Italy by the Alps。 It was the occurrence of an unusually severe winter in
Switzerland that turned Brougham aside into the longer and less travelled
route VIA the Corniche； the marvellous Roman road at that time fallen
into oblivion； and little used even by the local peasantry。
During the tedious weeks while his leg was mending； Lord Brougham
amused himself by exploring the surrounding country in his carriage； and
was quick to realize the advantages of the climate； and appreciate the
marvellous beauty of that coast。 Before the broken member was whole
again； he had bought a tract of land and begun a villa。 Small seed； to
furnish such a harvest！ To the traveller of to…day the Riviera offers an
almost unbroken chain of beautiful residences from Marseilles to Genoa。
A Briton willingly follows where a lord leads； and Cannes became the
centre of English fashion； a position it holds to…day in spite of many
attractive rivals； and the defection of Victoria who comes now to Cimiez；
back of Nice； being unwilling to visit Cannes since the sudden death there
of the Duke of Albany。 A statue of Lord Brougham； the 〃discoverer〃 of the
littoral； has been erected in the sunny little square at Cannes； and the
English have in many other ways； stamped the city for their own。
No other race carry their individuality with them as they do。 They can
live years in a country and assimilate none of its customs； on the contrary；
imposing habits of their own。 It is just this that makes them such
wonderful colonizers； and explains why you will find little groups of
English people drinking ale and playing golf in the shade of the Pyramids
or near the frozen slopes of Foosiyama。 The real inwardness of it is that
they are a dull race； and； like dull people despise all that they do not
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understand。 To differ from them is to be in the wrong。 They cannot argue
with you； they simply know； and that ends the matter。
I had a discussion recently with a Briton on the pronunciation of a
word。 As there is no 〃Institute；〃 as in France； to settle matters of this kind；
I maintained that we Americans had as much authority for our
pronunciation of this particular word as the English。 The answer was
characteristic。
〃I know I am right；〃 said my Island friend； 〃because that is the way I
pronounce it！〃
Walking along the principal streets of Cannes to…day； you might
imagine yourself （except for the climate） at Cowes or Brighton； so British
are the shops and the crowd that passes them。 Every restaurant advertises
〃afternoon tea〃 and Bass's ale； and every other sign bears a London name。
This little matter of tea is particularly characteristic of the way the English
have imposed a taste of their own on a rebellious nation。 Nothing is further
from the French taste than tea…drinking； and yet a Parisian lady will now
invite you gravely to 〃five o'clocker〃 with her； although I can remember
when that beverage was abhorred by the French as a medicine； if you had
asked a Frenchman to take a cup of tea； he would have answered：
〃Why？ I am not ill！〃
Even Paris （that supreme and undisputed arbiter of taste） has
submitted to English influence； tailor…made dresses and low…heeled shoes
have become as 〃good form〃 in France as in London。 The last two
Presidents of the French Republic have taken the oath of office dressed in
frock…coats instead of the dress clothes to which French officials formerly
clung as to the sacraments。
The municipalities of the little Southern cities were quick to seize their
golden opportunity； and everything was done to detain the rich English
wandering down towards Italy。 Millions were spent in transforming their
cramped； dirty； little towns。 Wide boulevards bordered with palm and
eucalyptus spread their sunny lines in all directions； being baptized
PROMENADE DES ANGLAIS or BOULEVARD VICTORIA； in artful
flattery。 The narrow mountain roads were widened； casinos and theatres
built and carnival FETES organized； the cities offering 〃cups〃 for yacht…
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or horse…races； and giving grounds for tennis and golf clubs。 Clever
Southern people！ The money returned to them a hundredfold； and they
lived to see their wild coast become the chosen residence of the wealthiest
aristocracy in Europe； and the rocky hillsides blossom into terrace above
terrace of villa gardens； where palm and rose and geranium vie with the
olive and the mimosa to shade the white villas from the sun。 To…day； no
little town on the coast is without its English chapel； British club； tennis
ground； and golf links。 On a fair day at Monte Carlo； Nice； or Cannes； the
prevailing conversation is in English； and the handsome； well… dressed
sons of Albion lounge along beside their astonishing womankind as
thoroughly at home as on Bond Street。
Those wonderful English women are the source of unending marvel
and amusement to the French。 They can never understand them； and small
wonder； for with the exception of the small 〃set〃 that surrounds the Prince
of Wales； who are dressed in the Parisian fashion； all English women seem
to be overwhelmed with regret at not being born men； and to have spent
their time and ingenuity since； in trying to make up for nature's mistake。
Every masculine garment is twisted by them to fit the female figure； their
conversation； like that of their brothers； is about horses and dogs； their
hats and gloves are the same as the men's； and when with their fine； large
feet in stout shoes they start off； with that particular swinging gait that
makes the skirt seem superfluous； for a stroll of twenty miles or so；
Englishwomen do seem to the uninitiated to have succeeded in their
ambition of obliterating the difference between the sexes。
It is of an evening； however； when concealment is no longer possible；
that the native taste bursts forth； the Anglo…Saxon standing declared in all
her plainness。 Strong is the contrast here； where they are placed side by
side with all that Europe holds of elegant； and well…dressed Frenchwomen；
whether of the 〃world〃 or the 〃half…world；〃 are invariably marvels of
fitness and freshness； the simplest materials being converted by their
skilful touch into toilettes； so artfully adapted to the wearer's figure and
complexion； as to raise such 〃creations〃 to the level of a fine art。
An artist feels； he must fix on canvas that particular combination of
colors or that wonderful line of bust and hip。 It is with a shudder that he
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