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hearty intercourse； at the Foreign Office and elsewhere； with
Count von Bulow。 Sundry German papers； indeed； attacked him as
yielding to much to me； and sundry American papers attacked me
for yielding too much to him； but both of us exerted ourselves to
do the best possible； each for his own country； and at the same
time to preserve peace and increase good feeling。
Interesting was it to me； from my first to my last days in
Berlin； to watch him in the discharge of his great duties；
especially in his dealings with hostile forces in Parliament。 No
contrast could be more marked than that between his manner and
that of his great predecessor； the iron chancellor。 To begin
with； no personalities could be more unlike。 In the place of an
old man； big； rumbling； heavy； fiery； minatory； objurgatory；
there now stood a young man； quiet； self…possessed； easy in
speech； friendly in manner； 〃sweet reasonableness〃 apparently his
main characteristic； bubbling at times with humor； quick to turn
a laugh on a hostile bungler； but never cruel； prompt in
returning a serious thrust； but never venomous。 Many of his
speeches were masterpieces in their way of handling opponents。 An
attack which Bismarck would have met with a bludgeon； Bulow
parried with weapons infinitely lighter； but in some cases really
more effective。 A very good example was on an occasion when the
old charge of 〃Byzantinism〃 was flung at the present regime； to
which he replied； not by a historical excursus or political
disquisition； but by humorously deprecating a comparison of the
good； kindly； steady…going； hard…working old privy councilors and
other state officials of Berlin with fanatics； conspirators； and
assassins who played leading parts at Constantinople during the
decline of the Eastern Empire。 In the most stormy discussions I
never saw him other than serene； under real provocation he
remained kindly； more than one bitter opponent he disarmed with a
retort； but there were no poisoned wounds。 The German Parliament；
left to itself； can hardly be a peaceful body。 The lines of
cleavage between parties are many； and some of them are old
chasms of racial dislike and abysses of religious and social
hate； but the appearance of the young chancellor at his desk
seemed； even on the darkest days； to bring sunshine。
Occasionally； during my walks in the Thiergarten； I met him on
his way to Parliament； and； no matter how pressing public
business might be； he found time to extend his walk and prolong
our discussions。 On one of these walks I alluded to a hot debate
of the day before and to his suavity under provocation； when he
answered： 〃Old ； many years ago； gave me two counsels； and I
have always tried to mind them。 These were： 'Never worry； never
lose your temper。' 〃
A pet phrase among his critics is that he is a diplomatist and
not a statesman。 Like so many antitheses； this is misleading。 It
may be just to say that his methods are； in general； those of a
diplomatist rather than of a statesman； but certain it is that in
various debates of my time he showed high statesmanlike
qualities； and notably at the beginning of the war with China and
in sundry later contests with the agrarians and socialists。 Even
his much criticized remark during the imbroglio between Turkey
and Greece； picturing Germany as laying down her flute and
retiring from the 〃European Concert；〃 which to many seemed mere
persiflage； was the humorous presentation of a policy dictated by
statesmanship。 Nor were all his addresses merely light and
humorous； at times； when some deep sentiment had been stirred； he
was eloquent； rising to the height of great arguments and taking
broad views。
No one claims that he is a Richelieu； a William Pitt； or a
Cavour； but the work of such men is not what the German Empire
just now requires。 The man needed at present is the one who can
keep things GOING； who can minimize differences； resist
extremists； turn aside marplots； soothe doctrinaires； and thus
give the good germs in the empire a chance to grow。 For this work
it would be hard to imagine a better man than the present
chancellor。 His selection and retention by the Emperor prove that
the present monarch has inherited two of the best qualities of
his illustrious grandfather： skill in recognizing the right man
and firmness in standing by him。
The next thing which an ambassador is expected to do； after
visiting the great representatives of the empire； is to become
acquainted with the official world in general。
But he must make acquaintance with these under his own roof。 On
his arrival he is expected to visit the Emperor and the princes
of his family； the imperial chancellor； and the minister of
foreign affairs； but all others are expected to visit him； hence
the most pressing duty on my arrival was to secure a house； and；
during three months following； all the time that I could possibly
spare； and much that I ought not to have spared； was given to
excursions into all parts of the city to find it。 No house； no
ambassador。 A minister plenipotentiary can live during his first
year in a hotel or in a very modest apartment； an ambassador
cannot。 He must have a spacious house fully furnished before he
can really begin his duties； for； as above stated； one of the
first of these duties is to make the acquaintance of the official
world；the ministers of the crown； the diplomatic corps； the
members of the Imperial Parliament； the members of the Prussian
legislature； the foremost men in the army and navy； and the
leaders in public life generally；and to this end he must give
three very large receptions； at which all those personages visit
him。 This is a matter of which the court itself takes charge； so
far as inviting and presenting the guests is concerned； high
court officials being sent to stand by the side of the ambassador
and ambassadress and make the introductions to them； but； as
preliminary to all this； the first thing is to secure a residence
fit for such receptions and for entertainments in connection with
them。
Under the rules of European nations generally； these receptions
must be held at the ambassador's permanent residence； but；
unfortunately； such a thing as a large furnished apartment
suitable for a foreign representative is rarely to be found in
Berlin。 In London and Paris such apartments are frequently
offered； but in Berlin hardly ever。 Every other nation which
sends an ambassador to Berlinand the same is true as regards
the other large capitals of Europeowns a suitable house； or at
least holds a long lease of a commodious apartment； but； although
President Cleveland especially recommended provision for such
residence in one of his messages； nothing has yet been done by
the American Congress； and the consequence is that every
ambassador has to lose a great amount of valuable time； effort；
and money in securing proper quarters； while his country loses
much of its proper prestige and dignity by constant changes in
the location of its embassy； and by the fact that the American
representative is not infrequently obliged to take up his
residence in unfit apartments and in an unsuitable part of the
town。
After looking at dozens of houses； the choice was narrowed down
to two； but； as one was nearly three miles from the center of the
city； selection was made of the large apartment which I occupied
during nearly four years； and which was bought from under my feet
by one of the smallest governments in Europe as the residence for
its minister。 Immediately after my lease was signed there began a
new series of troubles。 Everything must be ready for the three
receptions by the eighth day of January； and； being at the mercy
of my landlord； I was at a great disadvantage。 Though paying
large rent for the apartment； I was obliged； at my own expense；
to put it thoroughly in order； introducing electric light；
perfecting heating apparatus； getting walls and floors in order；
and doing a world of work which； under other circumstances； would
have been done by the proprietor himself。 As to furnishing； a
peculiar difficulty arose。 Berlin furnishers； as a rule； have
only samples in stock； and a long time is required for completing
sets。 My former experience； when； as minister； I had been obliged
to go through a similar ordeal； had shown me that the Berlin
makers could