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Russian city could hardly be conceived； and measures had been
proposed for improving this system； but he could see no use in
them。 The existing system was thoroughly Russian； and that was
enough。 It appealed to his conservatism。 The droshky…drivers；
with their Russian caps； their long hair and beards； their
picturesque caftans； and their deferential demeanor； satisfied
his esthetic sense。
What seemed to me a clash between his orthodox conservatism on
one side； and his Russian pride on the other； I discovered on my
return from a visit to Moscow； in which I had sundry walks and
talks with Tolstoi。 On my alluding to this； he showed some
interest。 It was clear that he was separated by a whole orb of
thought from the great novelist； yet it was none the less evident
that he took pride in him。 He naturally considered Tolstoi as
hopelessly wrong in all his fundamental ideas； and yet was
himself too much of a man of letters not to recognize in his
brilliant countryman one of the glories of Russia。
But the most curiousindeed； the most amazingrevelation of the
man I found in his love for American literature。 He is a wide
reader； and； in the whole breadth of his reading； American
authors were evidently among those he preferred。 Of these his
favorites were Hawthorne； Lowell； and； above all； Emerson。
Curious； indeed； was it to learn that this 〃arch…persecutor；〃
this 〃Torquemada of the nineteenth century；〃 this man whose hand
is especially heavy upon Catholics and Protestants and dissenters
throughout the empire； whose name is spoken with abhorrence by
millions within the empire and without it； still reads； as his
favorite author； the philosopher of Concord。 He told me that the
first book which he ever translated into Russian was Thomas a
Kempis's 〃Imitation of Christ〃； and of that he gave me the Latin
original from which he made his translation； with a copy of the
translation itself。 But he also told me that the next book he
translated was a volume of Emerson's 〃Essays；〃 and he added that
for years there had always lain open upon his study table a
volume of Emerson's writings。
There is； thus clearly； a relation of his mind to the literature
of the Western world very foreign to his feelings regarding
Western religious ideas。 This can be accounted for perhaps by his
own character as a man of letters。 That he has a distinct
literary gift is certain。 I have in my possession sundry articles
of his； and especially a poem in manuscript； which show real
poetic feeling and a marked power of expression。 It is a curious
fact that； though so addicted to English and American literature；
he utterly refuses to converse in our language。 His medium of
communication with foreigners is always French。 On my asking him
why he would not use our language in conversation； he answered
that he had learned it from books； and that his pronunciation of
it would expose him to ridicule。
In various circles in St。 Petersburg I heard him spoken of as a
hypocrite； but a simple sense of justice compels me to declare
this accusation unjust。 He indeed retires into a convent for a
portion of every year to join the monks in their austerities； but
this practice is； I believe； the outgrowth of a deep religious
feeling。 On returning from one of these visits； he brought to my
wife a large Easter egg of lacquered work； exquisitely
illuminated。 I have examined； in various parts of Europe；
beautiful specimens of the best periods of mediaeval art； but in
no one of them have I found anything in the way of illumination
more perfect than this which he brought from his monkish
brethren。 In nothing did he seem to unbend more than in his
unfeigned love for religious art as it exists in Russia。 He
discussed with me one evening sundry photographs of the new
religious paintings in the cathedral of Kieff in a spirit which
revealed this feeling for religious art as one of the deepest
characteristics of his nature。
He was evidently equally sensitive to the beauties of religious
literature。 Giving me various books containing the services of
the Orthodox Church； he dwelt upon the beauty of the Slavonic
version of the Psalms and upon the church hymnology。
The same esthetic side of his nature was evident at various great
church ceremonies。 It has happened to me to see Pius IX celebrate
mass； both at the high altar of St。 Peter's and in the Sistine
Chapel； and to witness the ceremonies of Holy Week and of Easter
at the Roman basilicas； and at the time it was hard to conceive
anything of the kind more impressive； but I have never seen any
church functions； on the whole； more imposing than the funeral
service of the Emperor Nicholas during my first visit to Russia；
and various imperial weddings； funerals； name…days； and the like；
during my second visit。 On such occasions Pobedonostzeff
frequently came over from his position among the ministers of the
crown to explain to us the significance of this or that feature
in the ritual of music。 It was plain that these things touched
what was deepest in him； it must be confessed that his attachment
to the church is sincere。
Nor were these impressions made upon me alone。 It fell to my lot
to present to him one of the most eminent journalists our country
has producedCharles A。 Dana； a man who could discuss on even
terms with any European statesman all the leading modern
questions。 Dana had been brought into close contact with many
great men； but it was plain to seewhat he afterward
acknowledged to methat he was very deeply impressed by this
eminent Russian。 The talk of two such men threw new light upon
the characteristics of Pobedonostzeff； and strengthened my
impression of his intellectual sincerity。
In regard to the relation of the Russo…Greek Church to other
churches I spoke to him at various times； and found in him no
personal feeling of dislike to them。 The nearest approach to such
a feeling appeared； greatly to my surprise； in sundry references
to the Greek Church as it exists in Greece。 In these he showed a
spirit much like that which used to be common among High…church
Episcopalians in speaking of Low…church 〃Evangelicals。〃 Mindful
of the earnest efforts made by the Anglican communion to come
into closer relations with the Russian branch of the Eastern
Church； I at various times broached that subject； and the
glimpses I obtained of his feeling regarding it surprised me。
Previously to these interviews I had supposed that the main
difficulty in the way to friendly relations between these two
branches of the church universal had its origin in the 〃filioque〃
clause of the Nicene Creed。 As is well known； the Eastern Church
adheres to that creed in its original form；the form in which
the Holy Ghost is represented as 〃proceeding from the
Father；〃whereas the Western Church adopts the additional words；
〃and from the Son。〃 That the Russo…Greek Church is very tenacious
of its position in this respect； and considers the position of
the Western ChurchCatholic and Protestantas savoring of
blasphemy； is well known； and there was a curious evidence of
this during my second stay in Russia。 Twice during that time I
heard the 〃Missa Solennis〃 of Beethoven。 It was first given by a
splendid choir in the great hall of the University of
Helsingfors。 That being in Finland； which is mainly Lutheran； the
Creed was sung in its Western form。 Naturally； on going to hear
it given by a great choir at St。 Petersburg； I was curious to
know how this famous clause would be dealt with。 In various parts
of the audience were priests of the Russo…Greek faith； yet there
were very many Lutherans and Calvinists； and I watched with some
interest the approach of the passage containing the disputed
words； but when we reached this it was wholly omitted。 Any
allusion to the 〃procession〃 was evidently forbidden。 Great；
therefore； was my surprise when； on my asking Pobedonostzeff；＇5＇
as the representative of the Emperor in the Synod of the
empire；the highest assemblage in the church； and he the most
influential man in it； really controlling archbishops and bishops
throughout the empire；whether the 〃filioque〃 clause is an
insurmountable obstacle to union； he replied； 〃Not at all； that
is simply a question of dialectics。 But with whom are we to
unite？ Shall it be with the High…churchmen； the Broad…churchmen；
or the L