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〃My eyes ain't what they was。 For the Lord's sake keep a…lookin'；
boys。〃
〃That nigh hoss is deef。 There don't seem to be no use saying
WHOA to her。〃
〃Them brakes don't hold fer sour peanuts。 I been figgerin' on tackin'
on a new shoe for a week。〃
〃I never was over this road but onct； and then I was headed th' other
way。 I was driving of a cor？？e。〃
Then； after two hours of it； BING！ BANG！ SMASH！ our tongue
collided with a sheer black wall； no blacker than the atmosphere before it。
The trail here took a sharp V turn to the left。 We had left the face of the
precipice and henceforward would descend the bed of the canon。
Fortunately our collision had done damage to nothing but our nerves； so
we proceeded to do so。
The walls of the crevice rose thousands of feet above us。 They
seemed to close together； like the sides of a tent； to leave only a narrow
pale lucent strip of sky。 The trail was quite invisible； and even the sense
of its existence was lost when we traversed groves of trees。 One of us
had to run ahead of the horses； determining its general direction； locating
the sharper turns。 The rest depended on the instinct of the horses and
pure luck。
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It was pleasant in the cool of night thus to run down through the
blackness； shouting aloud to guide our followers； swinging to the slope；
bathed to the soul in mysteries of which we had no time to take
cognizance。
By and by we saw a little spark far ahead of us like a star。 The smell
of fresh wood smoke and stale damp fire came to our nostrils。 We gained
the star and found it to be a log smouldering； and up the hill other stars red
as blood。 So we knew that we had crossed the zone of an almost extinct
forest fire； and looked on the scattered camp…fires of an army of
destruction。
The moon rose。 We knew it by touches of white light on peaks
infinitely far above us； not at all by the relieving of the heavy velvet
blackness in which we moved。 After a time； I； running ahead in my turn；
became aware of the deep breathing of animals。 I stopped short and
called a warning。 Immediately a voice answered me。
〃Come on； straight ahead。 They're not on the road。〃
When within five feet I made out the huge freight wagons in which
were lying the teamsters； and very dimly the big freight mules standing
tethered to the wheels。
〃It's a dark night； friend； and you're out late。〃
〃A dark night；〃 I agreed； and plunged on。 Behind me rattled and
banged the abused buckboard； snorted the half…wild broncos； groaned the
unrepaired brake； softly cursed my companions。
Then at once the abrupt descent ceased。 We glided out to the
silvered flat； above which sailed the moon。
The hour was seen to be half past one。 We had missed our train。
Nothing was visible of human habitations。 The land was frosted with the
moonlight； enchanted by it； etherealized。 Behind us； huge and
formidable； loomed the black mass of the range we had descended。
Before us； thin as smoke in the magic lucence that flooded the world； rose
other mountains； very great； lofty as the sky。 We could not understand
them。 The descent we had just accomplished should have landed us on a
level plain in which lay our town。 But here we found ourselves in a
pocket valley entirely surrounded by mountain ranges through which there
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THE MOUNTAINS
seemed to be no pass less than five or six thousand feet in height。
We reined in the horses to figure it out。
〃I don't see how it can be；〃 said I。 〃We've certainly come far enough。
It would take us four hours at the very least to cross that range； even if the
railroad should happen to be on the other side of it。〃
〃I been through here only once；〃 repeated the driver；〃going the other
way。Then I drew a corpse。〃 He spat； and added as an afterthought；
〃BEAU…ti…ful Cal…if…or…nia！〃
We stared at the mountains that hemmed us in。 They rose above us
sheer and forbidding。 In the bright moonlight plainly were to be descried
the brush of the foothills； the timber； the fissures； the canons； the granites；
and the everlasting snows。 Almost we thought to make out a thread of a
waterfall high up where the clouds would be if the night had not been
clear。
〃We got off the trail somewhere；〃 hazarded the Tenderfoot。
〃Well； we're on a road； anyway；〃 I pointed out。 〃It's bound to go
somewhere。 We might as well give up the railroad and find a place to
turn…in。〃
〃It can't be far；' encouraged the Tenderfoot； 〃this valley can't be more
than a few miles across。〃
〃Gi dap！〃 remarked the driver。
We moved forward down the white wagon trail approaching the
mountains。 And then we were witnesses of the most marvelous
transformation。 For as we neared them； those impregnable mountains； as
though panic…stricken by our advance； shrunk back； dissolved； dwindled；
went to pieces。 Where had towered ten…thousand…foot peaks； perfect in
the regular succession from timber to snow； now were little flat hills on
which grew tiny bushes of sage。 A passage opened between them。 In a
hundred yards we had gained the open country； leaving behind us the
mighty but unreal necromancies of the moon。
Before us gleamed red and green lights。 The mass of houses showed
half distinguishable。 A feeble glimmer illuminated part of a white sign
above the depot。 That which remained invisible was evidently the name
of the town。 That which was revealed was the supplementary
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THE MOUNTAINS
information which the Southern Pacific furnishes to its patrons。 It read：
〃Elevation 482 feet。〃 We were definitely out of the mountains。
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XXII
THE LURE OF THE TRAIL
The trail's call depends not at all on your common sense。 You know
you are a fool for answering it； and yet you go。 The comforts of
civilization； to put the case on its lowest plane； are not lightly to be
renounced： the ease of having your physical labor done for you； the joy of
cultivated minds； of theatres； of books； of participation in the world's
progress； these you leave behind you。 And in exchange you enter a life
where there is much long hard work of the handswork that is really hard
and long； so that no man paid to labor would consider it for a moment； you
undertake to eat simply； to endure much； to lie on the rack of anxiety； you
voluntarily place yourself where cold； wet； hunger； thirst； heat； monotony；
danger； and many discomforts will wait upon you daily。 A thousand
times in the course of a woods life even the stoutest…hearted will tell
himself softlyvery softly if he is really stout…hearted； so that others may
not be annoyedthat if ever the fates permit him to extricate himself he
will never venture again。
These times come when long continuance has worn on the spirit。
You beat all day to windward against the tide toward what should be but
an hour's sail： the sea is high and the spray cold； there are sunken rocks；
and food there is none； chill gray evening draws dangerously near； and
there is a foot of water in the bilge。 You have swallowed your tongue
twenty times on the alkali； and the sun is melting hot； and the dust dry and