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THE MOUNTAINS
VIII
THE PINES
I do not know exactly how to make you feel the charm of that first
camp in the big country。 Certainly I can never quite repeat it in my
own experience。
Remember that for two months we had grown accustomed to the
brown of the California landscape； and that for over a week we had
traveled in the Inferno。 We had forgotten the look of green grass； of
abundant water； almost had we forgotten the taste of cool air。 So
invariably had the trails been dusty； and the camping…places hard and
exposed； that we had come subconsciously to think of such as typical of
the country。 Try to put yourself in the frame of mind those conditions
would make。
Then imagine yourself climbing in an hour or so up into a high ridge
country of broad cup…like sweeps and bold outcropping ledges。 Imagine
a forest of pine…trees bigger than any pines you ever saw before；pines
eight and ten feet through； so huge that you can hardly look over one of
their prostrate trunks even from the back of your pony。 Imagine； further；
singing little streams of ice…cold water； deep refreshing shadows； a soft
carpet of pine…needles through which the faint furrow of the trail runs as
over velvet。 And then； last of all； in a wide opening； clear as though
chopped and plowed by some back… woodsman； a park of grass； fresh
grass； green as a precious stone。
This was our first sight of the mountain meadows。 From time to time
we found others； sometimes a half dozen in a day。 The rough country
came down close about them； edging to the very hair…line of the magic
circle； which seemed to assure their placid sunny peace。 An upheaval of
splintered granite often tossed and tumbled in the abandon of an
unrestrained passion that seemed irresistibly to overwhelm the sanities of a
whole region； but somewhere； in the very forefront of turmoil； was like to
slumber one of these little meadows； as unconscious of anything but its
own flawless green simplicity as a child asleep in mid…ocean。 Or；
away up in the snows； warmed by the fortuity of reflected heat； its
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THE MOUNTAINS
emerald eye looked bravely out to the heavens。 Or； as here； it rested
confidingly in the very heart of the austere forest。
Always these parks are green； always are they clear and open。 Their
size varies widely。 Some are as little as a city lawn； others； like the great
Monache；＇2＇ are miles in extent。 In them resides the possibility of your
traveling the high country； for they supply the feed for your horses。
＇2＇ Do not fail to sound the final e。
Being desert…weary； the Tenderfoot and I cried out with the joy of it；
and told in extravagant language how this was the best camp we had ever
made。
〃It's a bum camp；〃 growled Wes。 〃If we couldn't get better camps
than this； I'd quit the game。〃
He expatiated on the fact that this particular meadow was somewhat
boggy； that the feed was too watery； that there'd be a cold wind down
through the pines； and other small and minor details。 But we； our backs
propped against appropriately slanted rocks； our pipes well aglow； gazed
down the twilight through the wonderful great columns of the trees to
where the white horses shone like snow against the unaccustomed relief of
green； and laughed him to scorn。 What did weor the horses for that
matter care for trifling discomforts of the body？ In these intangible
comforts of the eye was a great refreshment of the spirit。
The following day we rode through the pine forests growing on the
ridges and hills and in the elevated bowl…like hollows。 These were not
the so… called 〃big trees；〃with those we had to do later； as you shall see。
They were merely sugar and yellow pines； but never anywhere have I seen
finer specimens。 They were planted with a grand sumptuousness of
space； and their trunks were from five to twelve feet in diameter and
upwards of two hundred feet high to the topmost spear。 Underbrush；
ground growth； even saplings of the same species lacked entirely； so that
we proceeded in the clear open aisles of a tremendous and spacious
magnificence。
This very lack of the smaller and usual growths； the generous plan of
spacing； and the size of the trees themselves necessarily deprived us of a
standard of comparison。 At first the forest seemed immense。 But after
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THE MOUNTAINS
a little our eyes became accustomed to its proportions。 We referred it
back to the measures of long experience。 The trees； the wood…aisles； the
extent of vision shrunk to the normal proportions of an Eastern pinery。
And then we would lower our gaze。 The pack…train would come into
view。 It had become lilliputian； the horses small as white mice； the men
like tin soldiers； as though we had undergone an enchantment。 But in a
moment； with the rush of a mighty transformation； the great trees would
tower huge again。
In the pine woods of the mountains grows also a certain close…clipped
parasitic moss。 In color it is a brilliant yellow…green； more yellow than
green。 In shape it is crinkly and curly and tangled up with itself like very
fine shavings。 In consistency it is dry and brittle。 This moss girdles the
trunks of trees with innumerable parallel inch…wide bands a foot or so
apart； in the manner of old…fashioned striped stockings。 It covers entirely
sundry twigless branches。 Always in appearance is it fantastic；
decorative； almost Japanese； as though consciously laid in with its vivid
yellow…green as an intentional note of a tone scheme。 The somberest
shadows； the most neutral twilights； the most austere recesses are lighted
by it as though so many freakish sunbeams had severed relations with the
parent luminary to rest quietly in the coolnesses of the ancient forest。
Underfoot the pine…needles were springy beneath the horse's hoof。
The trail went softly； with the courtesy of great gentleness。 Occasionally
we caught sight of other ridges；also with pines；across deep sloping
valleys； pine filled。 The effect of the distant trees seen from above was
that of roughened velvet； here smooth and shining； there dark with rich
shadows。 On these slopes played the wind。 In the level countries it
sang through the forest progressively： here on the slope it struck a
thousand trees at once。 The air was ennobled with the great voice； as a
church is ennobled by the tones of a great organ。 Then we would drop
back again to the inner country； for our way did not contemplate the
descents nor climbs； but held to the general level of a plateau。
Clear fresh brooks ran in every ravine。 Their water was snow…white
against the black rocks； or lay dark in bank…shadowed pools。 As our
horses splashed across we could glimpse the rainbow trout flashing to
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cover。 Where the watered hollows grew lush were thickets full of birds；
outposts of the aggressively and cheerfully worldly in this pine…land of
spiritual detachment。 Gorgeous bush…flowers； great of petal as magnolias；
with perfume that lay on the air like a heavy drowsiness； l