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ge of Assmannshausen； on the hills back of which is grown the famous red wine of that name。 On the bank walked in line a dozen peasants； men and women； in picturesque dress； towing； by a line passed from shoulder to shoulder； a boat filled with marketing for Rudesheim。 We were bound up the Niederwald； the mountain opposite Bingen； whose noble crown of forest attracted us。 At the landing； donkeys awaited us； and we began the ascent； a stout； good…natured German girl acting as guide and driver。 Behind us； on the opposite shore； set round about with a wealth of foliage； was the Castle of Rheinstein； a fortress more pleasing in its proportions and situation than any other。 Our way was through the little town which is jammed into the gorge； and as we clattered up the pavement； past the church； its heavy bell began to ring loudly for matins； the sound reverberating in the narrow way； and following us with its benediction when we were far up the hill； breathing the fresh； inspiring morning air。 The top of the Niederwald is a splendid forest of trees； which no impious Frenchman has been allowed to trim； and cut into allees of arches； taking one in thought across the water to the free Adirondacks。 We walked for a long time under the welcome shade； approaching the brow of the hill now and then； where some tower or hermitage is erected； for a view of the Rhine and the Nahe； the villages below； and the hills around； and then crossed the mountain； down through cherry orchards； and vine yards； walled up； with images of Christ on the cross on the angles of the walls； down through a hot road where wild flowers grew in great variety； to the quaint village of Rudesheim； with its queer streets and ancient ruins。 Is it possible that we can have too many ruins？ 〃Oh dear！〃 exclaimed the jung…frau as we sailed along the last day； 〃if there is n't another castle！〃
HEIDELBERG
If you come to Heidelberg； you will never want to go away。 To arrive here is to come into a peaceful state of rest and content。 The great hills out of which the Neckar flows； infold the town in a sweet security； and yet there is no sense of imprisonment； for the view is always wide open to the great plains where the Neckar goes to join the Rhine； and where the Rhine runs for many a league through a rich and smiling land。 One could settle down here to study； without a desire to go farther； nor any wish to change the dingy； shabby old buildings of the university for anything newer and smarter。 What the students can find to fight their little duels about I cannot see； but fight they do； as many a scarred cheek attests。 The students give life to the town。 They go about in little caps of red； green； and blue； many of them embroidered in gold； and stuck so far on the forehead that they require an elastic； like that worn by ladies； under the back hair； to keep them on； and they are also distinguished by colored ribbons across the breast。 The majority of them are well…behaved young gentlemen； who carry switch…canes； and try to keep near the fashions； like students at home。 Some like to swagger about in their little skull…caps； and now and then one is attended by a bull…dog。
I write in a room which opens out upon a balcony。 Below it is a garden； below that foliage； and farther down the town with its old speckled roofs； spires； and queer little squares。 Beyond is the Neckar； with the bridge； and white statues on it； and an old city gate at this end； with pointed towers。 Beyond that is a white road with a wall on one side； along which I see peasant women walking with large baskets balanced on their heads。 The road runs down the river to Neuenheim。 Above it on the steep hillside are vineyards； and a winding path goes up to the Philosopher's Walk； which runs along for a mile or more； giving delightful views of the castle and the glorious woods and hills back of it。 Above it is the mountain of Heiligenberg； from the other side of which one looks off toward Darmstadt and the famous road； the Bergstrasse。 If I look down the stream； I see the narrow town； and the Neckar flowing out of it into the vast level plain； rich with grain and trees and grass； with many spires and villages； Mannheim to the northward； shining when the sun is low； the Rhine gleaming here and there near the horizon； and the Vosges Mountains； purple in the last distance： on my right； and so near that I could throw a stone into them； the ruined tower and battlements of the northwest corner of the castle； half hidden in foliage； with statues framed in ivy； and the garden terrace； built for Elizabeth Stuart when she came here the bride of the Elector Frederick； where giant trees grow。 Under the walls a steep path goes down into the town； along which little houses cling to the hillside。 High above the castle rises the noble Konigstuhl； whence the whole of this part of Germany is visible； and； in a clear day； Strasburg Minster； ninety miles away。
I have only to go a few steps up a narrow； steep street； lined with the queerest houses； where is an ever…running pipe of good water； to which all the neighborhood resorts； and I am within the grounds of the castle。 I scarcely know where to take you； for I never know where to go myself； and seldom do go where I intend when I set forth。 We have been here several days； and I have not yet seen the Great Tun； nor the inside of the show…rooms； nor scarcely anything that is set down as a 〃sight。〃 I do not know whether to wander on through the extensive grounds； with splendid trees； bits of old ruin； overgrown； cozy nooks； and seats where； through the foliage； distant prospects open into quiet retreats that lead to winding walks up the terraced hill； round to the open terrace overlooking the Neckar； and giving the best general view of the great mass of ruins。 If we do； we shall be likely to sit in some delicious place； listening to the band playing in the 〃Restauration；〃 and to the nightingales； till the moon comes up。 Or shall we turn into the garden through the lovely Arch of the Princess Elizabeth； with its stone columns cut to resemble tree…trunks twined with ivy？ Or go rather through the great archway； and under the teeth of the portcullis； into the irregular quadrangle； whose buildings mark the changing style and fortune of successive centuries； from 1300 down to the seventeenth century？ There is probably no richer quadrangle in Europe： there is certainly no other ruin so vast； so impressive； so ornamented with carving； except the Alhambra。 And from here we pass out upon the broad terrace of masonry； with a splendid flanking octagon tower； its base hidden in trees； a rich facade for a background； and below the town the river； and beyond；the plain and floods of golden sunlight。 What shall we do？ Sit and dream in the Rent Tower under the lindens that grow in its top？ The day passes while one is deciding how to spend it； and the sun over Heiligenberg goes down on his purpose。
ALPINE NOTES
ENTERING SWITZERLAND BERNE ITS BEAUTIES AND BEARS
If you come to Bale； you should take rooms on the river； or stand on the bridge at evening； and have a sunset of gold and crimson streaming down upon the wide and strong Rhine； where it rushes between the houses built plumb up to it； or you will not care much for the city。 And yet it is pleasant on the high ground； where are some stately buildings； and where new gardens are laid out； and where the American consul on the Fourth of July flies our flag over the balcony of a little cottage smothered in vines and gay with flowers。 I had the honor of saluting it that day； though I did not know at the time that gold had risen two or three per cent。 under its blessed folds at home。 Not being a shipwrecked sailor； or a versatile and accomplished but impoverished naturalized citizen； desirous of quick transit to the land of the free； I did not call upon the consul； but left him under the no doubt correct impression that he was doing a good thing by unfolding the flag on the Fourth。
You have not journeyed far from Bale before you are aware that you are in Switzerland。 It was showery the day we went down； but the ride filled us with the most exciting expectations。 The country recalled New England； or what New England might be； if it were cultivated and adorned； and had good roads and no fences。 Here at last； after the dusty German valleys； we entered among real hills； round which and through which； by enormous tunnels； our train slowly went： rocks looking out of foliage； sweet little valleys； green as in early spring； the dark evergreens in contrast； snug cottages nestled in the hillsides； showing little else than enormous brown roofs that come nearly to the ground； giving the cottages the appearance of huge toadstools； fine harvests of grain； thrifty apple…trees； and cherry… trees purple with luscious fruit。 And this shifting panorama continues until； towards evening； behold； on a hill； Berne； shining through showers； the old feudal round tower and buildings overhanging the Aar； and the tower of the cathedral over all。 From the balcony of our rooms at the Bellevue； the long range of the Bernese Oberland shows its white summits for a moment in the slant sunshine； and then the clouds shut down； not to lift aga