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azy to stretch out their hands。 Within the gate is a large paved square； with the government offices and the tobacco…shop on one side； and the church opposite； between them； up a flight of broad stone steps； is the Hotel Tiberio。 Our donkeys walk up them and into the hotel。 The church and hotel are six hundred years old； the hotel was a villa belonging to Joanna II。 of Naples。 We climb to the roof of the quaint old building； and sit there to drink in the strange oriental scene。 The landlord says it is like Jaffa or Jerusalem。 The landlady； an Irish woman from Devonshire； says it is six francs a day。 In what friendly intercourse the neighbors can sit on these flat roofs！ How sightly this is； and yet how sheltered！ To the east is the height where Augustus； and after him Tiberius； built palaces。 To the west； up that vertical wall； by means of five hundred steps cut in the face of the rock； we go to reach the tableland of Anacapri； the primitive village of that name； hidden from view here； the medieval castle of Barbarossa； which hangs over a frightful precipice； and the height of Monte Solaro。 The island is everywhere strewn with Roman ruins； and with faint traces of the Greeks。
Capri turns out not to be a barren rock。 Broken and picturesque as it is； it is yet covered with vegetation。 There is not a foot； one might say a point； of soil that does not bear something； and there is not a niche in the rock； where a scrap of dirt will stay； that is not made useful。 The whole island is terraced。 The most wonderful thing about it； after all； is its masonry。 You come to think； after a time； that the island is not natural rock； but a mass of masonry。 If the labor that has been expended here； only to erect platforms for the soil to rest on； had been given to our country； it would have built half a dozen Pacific railways； and cut a canal through the Isthmus。
But the Blue Grotto？ Oh； yes！ Is it so blue？ That depends upon the time of day； the sun； the clouds； and something upon the person who enters it。 It is frightfully blue to some。 We bend down in our rowboat； slide into the narrow opening which is three feet high； and passing into the spacious cavern； remain there for half an hour。 It is； to be sure； forty feet high； and a hundred by a hundred and fifty in extent； with an arched roof； and clear water for a floor。 The water appears to be as deep as the roof is high； and is of a light； beautiful blue； in contrast with the deep blue of the bay。 At the entrance the water is illuminated； and there is a pleasant； mild light within： one has there a novel subterranean sensation； but it did not remind me of anything I have seen in the 〃Arabian Nights。〃 I have seen pictures of it that were much finer。
As we rowed close to the precipice in returning； I saw many similar openings； not so deep； and perhaps only sham openings； and the water…line was fretted to honeycomb by the eating waves。 Beneath the water…line； and revealed here and there when the waves receded； was a line of bright red coral。
THE STORY OF FIAMMETTA
At vespers on the fete of St。 Antonino； and in his church； I saw the Signorina Fiammetta。 I stood leaning against a marble pillar near the altar…steps； during the service； when I saw the young girl kneeling on the pavement in act of prayer。 Her black lace veil had fallen a little back from her head； and there was something in her modest attitude and graceful figure that made her conspicuous among all her kneeling companions； with their gay kerchiefs and bright gowns。 When she rose and sat down； with folded hands and eyes downcast； there was something so pensive in her subdued mien that I could not take my eyes from her。 To say that she had the rich olive complexion； with the gold struggling through； large； lustrous black eyes； and harmonious features； is only to make a weak photograph； when I should paint a picture in colors and infuse it with the sweet loveliness of a maiden on the way to sainthood。 I was sure that I had seen her before； looking down from the balcony of a villa just beyond the Roman wall； for the face was not one that even the most unimpressible idler would forget。 I was sure that； young as she was； she had already a history； had lived her life； and now walked amid these groves and old streets in a dream。 The story which I heard is not long。
In the drawing…room of the Villa Nardi was shown； and offered for sale； an enormous counterpane； crocheted in white cotton。 Loop by loop； it must have been an immense labor to knit it； for it was fashioned in pretty devices； and when spread out was rich and showy enough for the royal bed of a princess。 It had been crocheted by Fiammetta for her marriage； the only portion the poor child could bring to that sacrament。 Alas！ the wedding was never to be； and the rich work； into which her delicate fingers had knit so many maiden dreams and hopes and fears； was offered for sale in the resort of strangers。 It could not have been want only that induced her to put this piece of work in the market； but the feeling； also； that the time never again could return when she would have need of it。 I had no desire to purchase such a melancholy coverlet； but I could well enough fancy why she would wish to part with what must be rather a pall than a decoration in her little chamber。
Fiammetta lived with her mother in a little villa； the roof of which is in sight from my sunny terrace in the Villa Nardi； just to the left of the square old convent tower； rising there out of the silver olive…boughs；a tumble…down sort of villa； with a flat roof and odd angles and parapets； in the midst of a thrifty but small grove of lemons and oranges。 They were poor enough； or would be in any country where physical wants are greater than here； and yet did not belong to that lowest class； the young girls of which are little more than beasts of burden； accustomed to act as porters； bearing about on their heads great loads of stone； wood； water； and baskets of oranges in the shipping season。 She could not have been forced to such labor； or she never would have had the time to work that wonderful coverlet。
Giuseppe was an honest and rather handsome young fellow of Sorrento； industrious and good…natured； who did not bother his head much about learning。 He was； however； a skillful workman in the celebrated inlaid and mosaic woodwork of the place； and； it is said； had even invented some new figures for the inlaid pictures in colored woods。 He had a little fancy for the sea as well； and liked to pull an oar over to Capri on occasion； by which he could earn a few francs easier than he could saw them out of the orangewood。 For the stupid fellow； who could not read a word in his prayer…book； had an idea of thrift in his head； and already； I suspect； was laying up liras with an object。 There are one or two dandies in Sorrento who attempt to dress as they do in Naples。 Giuseppe was not one of these； but there was not a gayer or handsomer gallant than he on Sunday； or one more looked at by the Sorrento girls； when he had on his clean suit and his fresh red Phrygian cap。 At least the good Fiammetta thought so； when she met him at church； though I feel sure she did not allow even his handsome figure to come between her and the Virgin。 At any rate； there can be no doubt of her sentiments after church； when she and her mother used to walk with him along the winding Massa road above the sea； and stroll down to the shore to sit on the greensward over the Temple of Hercules； or the Roman Baths； or the remains of the villa of C。 Fulvius Cunctatus Cocles； or whatever those ruins subterranean are； there on the Capo di Sorrento。 Of course； this is mere conjecture of mine。 They may have gone on the hills behind the town instead； or they may have stood leaning over the garden…wall of her mother's little villa； looking at the passers…by in the deep lane； thinking about nothing in the world； and talking about it all the sunny afternoon； until Ischia was purple with the last light； and the olive terraces behind them began to lose their gray bloom。 All I do know is； that they were in love； blossoming out in it as the almond…trees do here in February； and that all the town knew it； and saw a wedding in the future； just as plain as you can see Capri from the heights above the town。
It was at this time that the wonderful counterpane began to grow； to the continual astonishment of Giuseppe； to whom it seemed a marvel of skill and patience； and who saw what love and sweet hope Fiammetta was knitting into it with her deft fingers。 I declare； as I think of it； the white cotton spread out on her knees； in such contrast to the rich olive of her complexion and her black shiny hair； while she knits away so merrily； glancing up occasionally with those liquid； laughing eyes to Giuseppe； who is watching her as if she were an angel right out of the blue sky； I am tempted not to tell this story further； but to leave the happy two there at the open gate of life； and to believe that they entered in。
This was about the time of the change of government； after this region had come to be a part of the Kingdom of Italy。 After the first excitement was over； and the simple people found they were not all