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o miss any of the shows of the day。 People were talking； chattering； and greeting each other as they might do in the street。 Here and there somebody was kneeling on the pavement； unheeding the passing throng。 At several of the chapels； services were being conducted； and there was a large congregation； an ordinary church full； about each of them。 But the most of those present seemed to regard it as a spectacle only； and as a display of dress； costumes； and nationalities it was almost unsurpassed。 There are few more wonderful sights in this world than an Englishwoman in what she considers full dress。 An English dandy is also a pleasing object。 For my part； as I have hinted； I like almost as well as anything the big footmen；those in scarlet breeches and blue gold…embroidered coats。 I stood in front of one of the fine creations for some time； and contemplated him as one does the Farnese Hercules。 One likes to see to what a splendor his species can come； even if the brains have all run down into the calves of the legs。 There were also the pages； the officers of the pope's household； in costumes of the Middle Ages； the pope's Swiss guard in the showy harlequin uniform designed by Michael Angelo； the foot…soldiers in white short…clothes； which threatened to burst； and let them fly into pieces； there were fine ladies and gentlemen； loafers and loungers； from every civilized country； jabbering in all the languages； there were beggars in rags； and boors in coats so patched that there was probably none of the original material left； there were groups of peasants from the Campagna； the men in short jackets and sheepskin breeches with the wool side out； the women with gay…colored folded cloths on their heads； and coarse woolen gowns； a squad of wild…looking Spanish gypsies； burning…eyed； olive…skinned； hair long； black； crinkled； and greasy； as wild in raiment as in face； priests and friars； Zouaves in jaunty light gray and scarlet； rags and velvets； silks and serge cloths；a cosmopolitan gathering poured into the world's great place of meeting；a fine religious Vanity Fair on Sunday。
There came an impressive moment in all this confusion； a point of august solemnity。 Up to that instant； what with chanting and singing the many services； and the noise of talking and walking； there was a wild babel。 But at the stroke of the bell and the elevation of the Host； down went the muskets of the guard with one clang on the marble； the soldiers kneeled； the multitude in the nave； in the aisles； at all the chapels； kneeled； and for a minute in that vast edifice there was perfect stillness： if the whole great concourse had been swept from the earth； the spot where it lately was could not have been more silent。 And then the military order went down the line； the soldiers rose； the crowd rose； and the mass and the hum went on。
It was all over before one； and the pope was borne out again； and the vast crowd began to discharge itself。 But it was a long time before the carriages were all filled and rolled off。 I stood for a half hour watching the stream go by；the pompous soldiers； the peasants and citizens； the dazzling equipages； and jaded； exhausted women in black； who had sat or stood half a day under the dome； and could get no carriage； and the great state coaches of the cardinals； swinging high in the air； painted and gilded； with three noble footmen hanging on behind each； and a cardinal's broad face in the window。
VESUVIUS
CLIMBING A VOLCANO
Everybody who comes to Naples；that is； everybody except the lady who fell from her horse the other day at Resina and injured her shoulder； as she was mounting for the ascent；everybody； I say； goes up Vesuvius； and nearly every one writes impressions and descriptions of the performance。 If you believe the tales of travelers； it is an undertaking of great hazard； an experience of frightful emotions。 How unsafe it is； especially for ladies； I heard twenty times in Naples before I had been there a day。 Why； there was a lady thrown from her horse and nearly killed； only a week ago； and she still lay ill at the next hotel； a witness of the truth of the story。 I imagined her plunged down a precipice of lava； or pitched over the lip of the crater； and only rescued by the devotion of a gallant guide； who threatened to let go of her if she didn't pay him twenty francs instantly。 This story； which will live and grow for years in this region； a waxing and never…waning peril of the volcano； I found； subsequently； had the foundation I have mentioned above。 The lady did go to Resina in order to make the ascent of Vesuvius； mounted a horse there； fell off； being utterly unhorsewomanly； and hurt herself； but her injury had no more to do with Vesuvius than it had with the entrance of Victor Emanuel into Naples； which took place a couple of weeks after。 Well； as I was saying； it is the fashion to write descriptions of Vesuvius； and you might as well have mine； which I shall give to you in rough outline。
There came a day when the Tramontane ceased to blow down on us the cold air of the snowy Apennines； and the white cap of Vesuvius； which is； by the way； worn generally like the caps of the Neapolitans； drifted inland instead of toward the sea。 Warmer weather had come to make the bright sunshine no longer a mockery。 For some days I had been getting the gauge of the mountain。 With its white plume it is a constant quantity in the landscape： one sees it from every point of view； and we had been scarcely anywhere that volcanic remains； or signs of such action；a thin crust shaking under our feet； as at Solfatara； where blasts of sulphurous steam drove in our faces；did not remind us that the whole ground is uncertain； and undermined by the subterranean fires that have Vesuvius for a chimney。 All the coast of the bay； within recent historic periods； in different spots at different times； has risen and sunk and risen again； in simple obedience to the pulsations of the great fiery monster below。 It puffs up or sinks； like the crust of a baking apple…pie。 This region is evidently not done； and I think it not unlikely it may have to be turned over again before it is。 We had seen where Herculaneum lies under the lava and under the town of Resina； we had walked those clean and narrow streets of Pompeii； and seen the workmen picking away at the imbedded gravel； sand； and ashes which still cover nearly two thirds of the nice little； tight little Roman city； we had looked at the black gashes on the mountain…sides； where the lava streams had gushed and rolled and twisted over vineyards and villas and villages； and we decided to take a nearer look at the immediate cause of all this abnormal state of things。
In the morning when I awoke the sun was just rising behind Vesuvius； and there was a mighty display of gold and crimson in that quarter； as if the curtain was about to be lifted on a grand performance； say a ballet at San Carlo； which is the only thing the Neapolitans think worth looking at。 Straight up in the air； out of the mountain； rose a white pillar； spreading out at the top like a palm…tree； or； to compare it to something I have seen； to the Italian pines； that come so picturesquely into all these Naples pictures。 If you will believe me； that pillar of steam was like a column of fire； from the sun shining on and through it； and perhaps from the reflection of the background of crimson clouds and blue and gold sky； spread out there and hung there in royal and extravagant profusion； to make a highway and a regal gateway； through which I could just then see coming the horses and the chariot of a southern perfect day。 They said that the tree…shaped cloud was the sign of an eruption； but the hotel…keepers here are always predicting that。 The eruption is usually about two or three weeks distant； and the hotel proprietors get this information from experienced guides； who observe the action of the water in the wells； so that there can be no mistake about it。
We took carriages at nine o'clock to Resina； a drive of four miles； and one of exceeding interest； if you wish to see Naples life。 The way is round the curving bay by the sea； but so continuously built up is it； and so inclosed with high walls of villas； through the open gates of which the golden oranges gleam； that you seem never to leave the city。 The streets and quays swarm with the most vociferous； dirty； multitudinous life。 It is a drive through Rag Fair。 The tall； whitey…yellow houses fronting the water； six； seven； eight stories high； are full as beehives； people are at all the open windows； garments hang from the balconies and from poles thrust out； up every narrow； gloomy； ascending street are crowds of struggling human shapes； and you see how like herrings in a box are packed the over half a million people of Naples。 In front of the houses are the markets in the open air；fish； vegetables； carts of oranges； in the sun sit women spinning from distaffs or weaving fishing…nets； and rows of children who were never washed and never clothed but once； and whose garments have nearly wasted away； beggars； fishermen in red caps； sailors； priests； donkeys； fruit…venders； street…musicians； carriages； carts； two…wheeled break…down vehicles；the whole t