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hich； so far as it is an intelligent force in modern affairs； is the Romish clergy； and nothing more； hears with aversion any hint of German unity； listens with dread to the needle…guns at Sadowa； hates Prussia in proportion as it fears her； and just now does not draw either with the Austrian Government； whose liberal tendencies are exceedingly distasteful。 It relies upon that great unenlightened mass of Catholic people in Southern Germany and in Austria proper； one of whose sins is certainly not skepticism。 The practical fight now in Bavaria is on the question of education； the priests being resolved to keep the schools of the people in their own control； and the liberal parties seeking to widen educational facilities and admit laymen to a share in the management of institutions of learning。 Now the school visitors must all be ecclesiastics； and although their power is not to be dreaded in the cities； where teachers； like other citizens； are apt to be liberal； it gives them immense power in the rural districts。 The election of the Lower House of the Bavarian parliament； whose members have a six years' tenure of office； which takes place next spring； excites uncommon interest； for the leading issue will be that of education。 The little local newspapersand every city has a small swarm of them； which are remarkable for the absence of news and an abundance of advertisementshave broken out into a style of personal controversy； which； to put it mildly； makes me； an American； feel quite at home。 Both parties are very much in earnest； and both speak with a freedom that is； in itself； a very hopeful sign。
The pretensions of the ultramontane clergy are； indeed； remarkable enough to attract the attention of others besides the liberals of Bavaria。 They assume an influence and an importance in the ecclesiastical profession； or rather an authority； equal to that ever asserted by the Church in its strongest days。 Perhaps you will get an idea of the height of this pretension if I translate a passage which the liberal journal here takes from a sermon preached in the parish church of Ebersburg； in Ober…Dorfen； by a priest； Herr Kooperator Anton Hiring； no longer ago than August 16； 1868。 It reads： 〃With the power of absolution； Christ has endued the priesthood with a might which is terrible to hell； and against which Lucifer himself cannot stand；…a might which； indeed； reaches over into eternity； where all other earthly powers find their limit and end；a might； I say； which is able to break the fetters which； for an eternity； were forged through the commission of heavy sin。 Yes； further； this Power of the forgiveness of sins makes the priest； in a certain measure； a second God； for God alone naturally can forgive sins。 And yet this is not the highest reach of the priestly might： his power reaches still higher； he compels God himself to serve him。 How so？ When the priest approaches the altar； in order to bring there the holy mass…offering； there； at that moment； lifts himself up Jesus Christ； who sits at the right hand of the Father； upon his throne； in order to be ready for the beck of his priests upon earth。 And scarcely does the priest begin the words of consecration； than there Christ already hovers； surrounded by the heavenly host； come down from heaven to earth； and to the altar of sacrifice； and changes； upon the words of the priest； the bread and wine into his holy flesh and blood； and permits himself then to be taken up and to lie in the hands of the priest； even though the priest is the most sinful and the most unworthy。 Further； his power surpasses that of the highest archangels； and of the Queen of Heaven。 Right did the holy Franciscus say； 'If I should meet a priest and an angel at the same time； I should salute the priest first； and then the angel； because the priest is possessed of far higher might and holiness than the angel。'〃
The radical journal calls this 〃ultramontane blasphemy；〃 and； the day after quoting it； adds a charge that must be still more annoying to the Herr Kooperator Hiring than that of blasphemy： it accuses him of plagiarism； and； to substantiate the charge； quotes almost the very same language from a sermon preached in 1785In this it is boldly claimed that 〃in heaven； on earth； or under the earth； there is nothing mightier than a priest； except God； and； to be exact； God himself must obey the priest in the mass。〃 And then； in words which I do not care to translate； the priest is made greater than the Virgin Mary； because Christ was only born of the Virgin once； while the priest 〃with five words； as often and wherever he will；〃 can 〃bring forth the Saviour of the world。〃 So to…day keeps firm hold of the traditions of a hundred years ago； and ultramontanism wisely defends the last citadel where the Middle Age superstition makes a stand；the popular veneration for the clergy。
And the clergy take good care to keep up the pomps and shows even here in skeptical Munich。 It was my inestimable privilege the other morningit was All…Saints' Dayto see the archbishop in the old Frauenkirche； the ancient cathedral； where hang tattered banners that were captured from the Turks three centuries ago；to see him seated in the choir； overlooked by saints and apostles carved in wood by some forgotten artist of the fifteenth century。 I supposed he was at least an archbishop； from the retinue of priests who attended and served him； and also from his great size。 When he sat down； it required a dignitary of considerable rank to put on his hat； and when he arose to speak a few precious words； the effect was visible a good many yards from where he stood。 At the close of the service he went in great state down the center aisle； preceded by the gorgeous beadlea character that is always awe…inspiring to me in these churches； being a cross between a magnificent drum…major and a verger and two persons in livery； and followed by a train of splendidly attired priests； six of whom bore up his long train of purple silk。 The whole cortege was resplendent in embroidery and ermine； and as the great man swept out of my sight； and was carried on a priestly wave into his shining carriage； and the noble footman jumped up behind； and he rolled away to his dinner； I stood leaning against a pillar； and reflected if it could be possible that that religion could be anything but genuine which had so much genuine ermine。 And the organ…notes； rolling down the arches； seemed to me to have a very ultramontane sound。
CHANGING QUARTERS
Perhaps it may not interest you to know how we moved； that is； changed our apartments。 I did not see it mentioned in the cable dispatches； and it may not be generally known； even in Germany； but then； the cable is so occupied with relating how his Serenity this； and his Highness that； and her Loftiness the other one； went outdoors and came in again； owing to a slight superfluity of the liquid element in the atmosphere； that it has no time to notice the real movements of the people。 And yet； so dry are some of these little German newspapers of news； that it is refreshing to read； now and then； that the king； on Sunday； walked out with the Duke of Hesse after dinner （one would like to know if they also had sauerkraut and sausage）； and that his prospective mother…in…law； the Empress of Russia； who was here the other day； on her way home from Como； where she was nearly drowned out by the inundation； sat for an hour on Sunday night； after the opera； in the winter garden of the palace； enjoying the most easy family intercourse。
But about moving。 Let me tell you that to change quarters in the face of a Munich winter； which arrives here the 1st of November； is like changing front to the enemy just before a battle； and if we had perished in the attempt； it might have been put upon our monuments； as it is upon the out…of…cannon…cast obelisk in the Karolina Platz； erected to the memory of the thirty thousand Bavarian soldiers who fell in the disastrous Russian winter campaign of Napoleon； fighting against all the interests of Germany；〃they； too； died for their Fatherland。〃 Bavaria happened also to fight on the wrong side at Sadowa and I suppose that those who fell there also died for Fatherland： it is a way the Germans have of doing； and they mean nothing serious by it。 But； as I was saying； to change quarters here as late as November is a little difficult； for the wise ones seek to get housed for the winter by October： they select the sunny apartments； get on the double windows； and store up wood。 The plants are tied up in the gardens； the fountains are covered over； and the inhabitants go about in furs and the heaviest winter clothing long before we should think of doing so at home。 And they are wise： the snow comes early； and； besides； a cruel fog； cold as the grave and penetrating as remorse； comes down out of the near Tyrol。 One morning early in November； I looked out of the window to find snow falling； and the ground covered with it。 There was dampness and frost enough in the air to make it cling to all the tree…twigs； and to take fantastic shapes on all the queer roofs and the slenderest pinnacles and most delicate architectural ornamentations。 The city spires had a mysterious appearance in the gray