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ty old carvings； that gives one at all the sort of feeling that it is supposed a church should give。 The court chapel interior is boastingly said to resemble St。 Mark's； in Venice。
You see how far imitation of the classic and Italian is carried here in Munich； so； as I said； the buildings need the southern sunlight。 Fortunately； they get the right quality much of the time。 The Glyptothek； a Grecian structure of one story； erected to hold the treasures of classic sculpture that King Ludwig collected； has a beautiful Ionic porch and pediment。 On the outside are niches filled with statues。 In the pure sunshine and under a deep blue sky； its white marble glows with an almost ethereal beauty。 Opposite stands another successful imitation of the Grecian style of architecture；a building with a Corinthian porch； also of white marble。 These； with the Propylaeum； before mentioned； come out wonderfully against a blue sky。 A few squares distant is the Pinakothek； with its treasures of old pictures； and beyond it the New Pinakothek； containing works of modern artists。 Its exterior is decorated with frescoes； from designs by Kaulbach： these certainly appear best in a sparkling light； though I am bound to say that no light can make very much of them。
Yet Munich is not all imitation。 Its finest street； the Maximilian； built by the late king of that name； is of a novel and wholly modern style of architecture； not an imitation； though it may remind some of the new portions of Paris。 It runs for three quarters of a mile； beginning with the postoffice and its colonnades； with frescoes on one side； and the Hof Theater； with its pediment frescoes； the largest opera…house in Germany； I believe； with stately buildings adorned with statues； and elegant shops； down to the swift…flowing Isar； which is spanned by a handsome bridge； or rather by two bridges； for the Isar is partly turned from its bed above； and made to turn wheels； and drive machinery。 At the lower end the street expands into a handsome platz； with young shade trees； plats of grass； and gay beds of flowers。 I look out on it as I write； and I see across the Isar the college building begun by Maximilian for the education of government officers； and I see that it is still unfinished； indeed； a staring mass of brick； with unsightly scaffolding and gaping windows。 Money was left to complete it； but the young king； who does not care for architecture； keeps only a mason or two on the brick…work； and an artist on the exterior frescoes。 At this rate； the Cologne Cathedral will be finished and decay before this is built。 On either side of it； on the elevated bank of the river； stretch beautiful grounds； with green lawns； fine trees； and well…kept walks。
Not to mention the English Garden； in speaking of the outside aspects of the city； would be a great oversight。 It was laid out originally by the munificent American； Count Rumford； and is called English； I suppose； because it is not in the artificial Continental style。 Paris has nothing to compare with it for natural beauty；Paris； which cannot let a tree grow； but must clip it down to suit French taste。 It is a noble park four miles in length； and perhaps a quarter of that in width；a park of splendid old trees； grand； sweeping avenues； open glades of free…growing grass； with delicious； shady walks； charming drives and rivers of water。 For the Isar is trained to flow through it in two rapid streams； under bridges and over rapids； and by willow…hung banks。 There is not wanting even a lake； and there is； I am sorry to say； a temple on a mound； quite in the classic style； from which one can see the sun set behind the many spires of Munich。 At the Chinese Tower two military bands play every Saturday evening in the summer； and thither the carriages drive； and the promenaders assemble there； between five and six o'clock； and while the bands play； the Germans drink beer； and smoke cigars； and the fashionably attired young men walk round and round the； circle； and the smart young soldiers exhibit their handsome uniforms； and stride about with clanking swords。
We felicitated ourselves that we should have no lack of music when we came to Munich。 I think we have not； though the opera has only just begun； and it is the vacation of the Conservatoire。 There are first the military bands： there is continually a parade somewhere； and the streets are full of military music； and finely executed too。 Then of beer…gardens there is literally no end； and there are nightly concerts in them。 There are two brothers Hunn； each with his band； who； like the ancient Huns； have taken the city； and its gardens are given over to their unending waltzes； polkas； and opera medleys。 Then there is the church music on Sundays and holidays； which is largely of a military character； at least； has the aid of drums and trumpets； and the whole band of brass。 For the first few days of our stay here we had rooms near the Maximilian Platz and the Karl's Thor。 I think there was some sort of a yearly fair in progress； for the great platz was filled with temporary booths： a circus had set itself up there； and there were innumerable side…shows and lottery…stands； and I believe that each little shanty and puppet…show had its band or fraction of a band； for there was never heard such a tooting and blowing and scraping； such a pounding and dinning and slang…whanging； since the day of stopping work on the Tower of Babel。 The circus band confined itself mostly to one tune； and as it went all day long； and late into the night； we got to know it quite well； at least； the bass notes of it； for the lighter tones came to us indistinctly。 You know that blurt； blurt； thump； thump； dissolute sort of caravan tune。 That was it。
The English Caf？ was not far off； and there the Hunns and others also made night melodious。 The whole air was one throb and thrump。 The only refuge from it was to go into one of the gardens； and give yourself over to one band。 And so it was possible to have delightful music； and see the honest Germans drink beer； and gossip in friendly fellowship and with occasional hilarity。 But music we had； early and late。 We expected quiet in our present quarters。 The first morning； at six o'clock； we were startled by the resonant notes of a military band； that set the echoes flying between the houses； and a regiment of cavalry went clanking down the street。 But that is a not unwelcome morning serenade and reveille。 Not so agreeable is the young man next door； who gives hilarious concerts to his friends； and sings and bangs his piano all day Sunday； nor the screaming young woman opposite。 Yet it is something to be in an atmosphere of music。
THE MILITARY LIFE OF MUNICH
This morning I was awakened early by the strains of a military band。 It was a clear； sparkling morning； the air full of life； and yet the sun showing its warm； southern side。 As the mounted musicians went by； the square was quite filled with the clang of drum and trumpet； which became fainter and fainter； and at length was lost on the ear beyond the Isar； but preserved the perfection of time and the precision of execution for which the military bands of the city are remarkable。 After the band came a brave array of officers in bright uniform； upon horses that pranced and curveted in the sunshine； and the regiment of cavalry followed； rank on rank of splendidly mounted men； who ride as if born to the saddle。 The clatter of hoofs on the pavement； the jangle of bit and saber； the occasional word of command； the onward sweep of the well…trained cavalcade； continued for a long time； as if the lovely morning had brought all the cavalry in the city out of barracks。 But this is an almost daily sight in Munich。 One regiment after another goes over the river to the drill…ground。 In the hot mornings I used quite to pity the troopers who rode away in the glare in scorching brazen helmets and breastplates。 But only a portion of the regiments dress in that absurd manner。 The most wear a simple uniform； and look very soldierly。 The horses are almost invariably fine animals； and I have not seen such riders in Europe。 Indeed； everybody in Munich who rides at all rides well。 Either most of the horsemen have served in the cavalry； or horsemanship； that noble art 〃to witch the world；〃 is in high repute here。
Speaking of soldiers； Munich is full of them。 There are huge caserns in every part of the city； crowded with troops。 This little kingdom of Bavaria has a hundred and twenty thousand troops of the line。 Every man is obliged to serve in the army continuously three years； and every man between the ages of twenty…one and forty…five must go with his regiment into camp or barrack several weeks in each year； no matter if the harvest rots in the field； or the customers desert the uncared…for shop。 The service takes three of the best years of a young man's life。 Most of the soldiers in Munich are young one meets hundreds of mere boys in the uniform of officers。 I think every seventh man you meet is a soldier。 There must be between fifteen and twenty thousand troops quartered in the city now。 The young officers are everywhere； lounging in the cafes； smoking and sipping coffee； on all the public pr