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by the perpendicular walls of the Gemmi； which rise on all sides； except the south； on an average of two thousand feet above it。 There is a nest of brown houses； clustered together like bee…hives； into which the few inhabitants creep to hibernate in the long winters； and several shops； grand hotels； and bathing…houses open for the season。 Innumerable springs issue out of this green； sloping meadow among the mountains； some of them icy cold； but over twenty of them hot； and seasoned with a great many disagreeable sulphates； carbonates； and oxides； and varying in temperature from ninety…five to one hundred and twenty…three degrees Fahrenheit。 Italians； French； and Swiss resort here in great numbers to take the baths； which are supposed to be very efficacious for rheumatism and cutaneous affections。 Doubtless many of them do up their bathing for the year while here； and they may need no more after scalding and soaking in this water for a couple of months。
Before we reached the hotel； we turned aside into one of the bath…houses。 We stood inhaling a sickly steam in a large； close hall； which was wholly occupied by a huge vat； across which low partitions； with bridges； ran； dividing it into four compartments。 When we entered； we were assailed with yells in many languages； and howls in the common tongue； as if all the fiends of the pit had broken loose。 We took off our hats in obedience to the demand； but the clamor did not wholly subside； and was mingled with singing and horrible laughter。 Floating about in each vat； we at first saw twenty or thirty human heads。 The women could be distinguished from the men by the manner of dressing the hair。 Each wore a loose woolen gown。 Each had a little table floating before him or her； which he or she pushed about at pleasure。 One wore a hideous mask； another kept diving in the opaque pool and coming up to blow； like the hippopotamus in the Zoological Gardens； some were taking a lunch from their tables； others playing chess； some sitting on the benches round the edges； with only heads out of water； as doleful as owls； while others roamed about； engaged in the game of spattering with their comrades； and sang and shouted at the top of their voices。 The people in this bath were said to be second class； but they looked as well and behaved better than those of the first class； whom we saw in the establishment at our hotel afterward。
It may be a valuable scientific fact； that the water in these vats； in which people of all sexes； all diseases； and all nations spend so many hours of the twenty…four； is changed once a day。 The temperature at which the bath is given is ninety…eight。 The water is let in at night； and allowed to cool。 At five in the morning； the bathers enter it； and remain until ten o'clock；five hours； having breakfast served to them on the floating tables； 〃as they sail； as they sail。〃 They then have a respite till two； and go in till five。 Eight hours in hot water！ Nothing can be more disgusting than the sight of these baths。 Gustave Dore must have learned here how to make those ghostly pictures of the lost floating about in the Stygian pools； in his illustrations of the Inferno； and the rocks and cavernous precipices may have enabled him to complete the picture。 On what principle cures are effected in these filthy vats； I could not learn。 I have a theory； that； where so many diseases meet and mingle in one swashing fluid； they neutralize each other。 It may be that the action is that happily explained by one of the Hibernian bathmen in an American water…cure establishment。 〃You see； sir；〃 said he； 〃that the shock of the water unites with the electricity of the system； and explodes the disease。〃 I should think that the shock to one's feeling of decency and cleanliness； at these baths； would explode any disease in Europe。 But； whatever the result may be； I am not sorry to see so many French and Italians soak themselves once a year。
Out of the bath these people seem to enjoy life。 There is a long promenade； shaded and picturesque； which they take at evening； sometimes as far as the Ladders； eight of which are fastened； in a shackling manner； to the perpendicular rocks；a high and somewhat dangerous ascent to the village of Albinen； but undertaken constantly by peasants with baskets on their backs。 It is in winter the only mode Leukerbad has of communicating with the world； and in summer it is the only way of reaching Albinen； except by a long journey down the Dala and up another valley and height。 The bathers were certainly very lively and social at table…d'hote； where we had the pleasure of meeting some hundred of them； dressed。 It was presumed that the baths were the subject of the entertaining conversation； for I read in a charming little work which sets forth the delights of Leuk； that La poussee forms the staple of most of the talk。 La poussee； or； as this book poetically calls it； 〃that daughter of the waters of Loeche；〃 〃that eruption of which we have already spoken； and which proves the action of the baths upon the skin；〃becomes the object； and often the end； of all conversation。 And it gives specimens of this pleasant converse； as：
〃Comment va votre poussee？〃
〃Avez…vous la poussee？〃
〃Je suis en pleine poussee〃
〃Ma poussee s'est fort bien passee！〃
Indeed says this entertaining tract； sans poussee； one would not be able to hold； at table or in the salon； with a neighbor of either sex； the least conversation。 Further； it is by grace a la poussee that one arrives at those intimacies which are the characteristics of the baths。 Blessed； then； be La poussee； which renders possible such a high society and such select and entertaining conversation！ Long may the bathers of Leuk live to soak and converse！ In the morning； when we departed for the ascent of the Gemmi； we passed one of the bathing…houses。 I fancied that a hot steam issued out of the crevices； from within came a discord of singing and caterwauling； and； as a door swung open； I saw that the heads floating about on the turbid tide were eating breakfast from the swimming tables。
OVER THE GEMMI
I spent some time； the evening before； studying the face of the cliff we were to ascend； to discover the path； but I could only trace its zigzag beginning。 When we came to the base of the rock； we found a way cut； a narrow path； most of the distance hewn out of the rock； winding upward along the face of the precipice。 The view； as one rises； is of the break…neck description。 The way is really safe enough； even on mule…back； ascending； but one would be foolhardy to ride down。 We met a lady on the summit who was about to be carried down on a chair； and she seemed quite to like the mode of conveyance： she had harnessed her husband in temporarily for one of the bearers； which made it still more jolly for her。 When we started； a cloud of mist hung over the edge of the rocks。 As we rose； it descended to meet us； and sunk below； hiding the valley and its houses； which had looked like Swiss toys from our height。 When we reached the summit； the mist came boiling up after us； rising like a thick wall to the sky； and hiding all that great mountain range； the Vallais Alps； from which we had come； and which we hoped to see from this point。 Fortunately； there were no clouds on the other side； and we looked down into a magnificent rocky basin； encircled by broken and overtopping crags and snow…fields； at the bottom of which was a green lake。 It is one of the wildest of scenes。
An hour from the summit； we came to a green Alp； where a herd of cows were feeding； and in the midst of it were three or four dirty chalets； where pigs； chickens； cattle； and animals constructed very much like human beings； lived； yet I have nothing to say against these chalets； for we had excellent cream there。 We had； on the way down； fine views of the snowy Altels； the Rinderhorn； the Finster… Aarhorn； a deep valley which enormous precipices guard； but which avalanches nevertheless invade； and； farther on； of the Blumlisalp； with its summit of crystalline whiteness。 The descent to Kandersteg is very rapid； and in a rain slippery。 This village is a resort for artists for its splendid views of the range we had crossed： it stands at the gate of the mountains。 From there to the Lake of Thun is a delightful drive；a rich country； with handsome cottages and a charming landscape； even if the pyramidal Niesen did not lift up its seven thousand feet on the edge of the lake。 So； through a smiling land； and in the sunshine after the rain； we come to Spiez； and find ourselves at a little hotel on the slope； overlooking town and lake and mountains。
Spiez is not large： indeed； its few houses are nearly all picturesquely grouped upon a narrow rib of land which is thrust into the lake on purpose to make the loveliest picture in the world。 There is the old castle； with its many slim spires and its square… peaked roofed tower； the slender…steepled church； a fringe of old houses below on the lake； one overhanging towards the point； and the promontory； finished by a willo drooping to the water。 Beyond； in hazy light； over the lucid green of the lake； are mountains whose masses of rock seem soft and sculptured。 To the right；