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letters on sweden, norway, and denmark-第24章

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This work is carried on by a company; who employ daily nine hundred men; five years was the time mentioned in the proposals addressed to the public as necessary for the completion。  A much more considerable sum than the plan requires has been subscribed; for which there is every reason to suppose the promoters will receive ample interest。

The Danes survey the progress of this work with a jealous eye; as it is principally undertaken to get clear of the Sound duty。

Arrived at Trolhaettae; I must own that the first view of the cascade disappointed me; and the sight of the works; as they advanced; though a grand proof of human industry; was not calculated to warm the fancy。  I; however; wandered about; and at last coming to the conflux of the various cataracts rushing from different falls; struggling with the huge masses of rock; and rebounding from the profound cavities; I immediately retracted; acknowledging that it was indeed a grand object。  A little island stood in the midst; covered with firs; which; by dividing the torrent; rendered it more picturesque; one half appearing to issue from a dark cavern; that fancy might easily imagine a vast fountain throwing up its waters from the very centre of the earth。

I gazed I know not how long; stunned with the noise; and growing giddy with only looking at the never…ceasing tumultuous motion; I listened; scarcely conscious where I was; when I observed a boy; half obscured by the sparkling foam; fishing under the impending rock on the other side。  How he had descended I could not perceive; nothing like human footsteps appeared; and the horrific crags seemed to bid defiance even to the goat's activity。  It looked like an abode only fit for the eagle; though in its crevices some pines darted up their spiral heads; but they only grew near the cascade; everywhere else sterility itself reigned with dreary grandeur; for the huge grey massy rocks; which probably had been torn asunder by some dreadful convulsion of nature; had not even their first covering of a little cleaving moss。  There were so many appearances to excite the idea of chaos; that; instead of admiring the canal and the works; great as they are termed; and little as they appear; I could not help regretting that such a noble scene had not been left in all its solitary sublimity。  Amidst the awful roaring of the impetuous torrents; the noise of human instruments and the bustle of workmen; even the blowing up of the rocks when grand masses trembled in the darkened air; only resembled the insignificant sport of children。

One fall of water; partly made by art; when they were attempting to construct sluices; had an uncommonly grand effect; the water precipitated itself with immense velocity down a perpendicular; at least fifty or sixty yards; into a gulf; so concealed by the foam as to give full play to the fancy。  There was a continual uproar。  I stood on a rock to observe it; a kind of bridge formed by nature; nearly on a level with the commencement of the fall。  After musing by it a long time I turned towards the other side; and saw a gentle stream stray calmly out。  I should have concluded that it had no communication with the torrent had I not seen a huge log that fell headlong down the cascade steal peacefully into the purling stream。

I retired from these wild scenes with regret to a miserable inn; and next morning returned to Gothenburg; to prepare for my journey to Copenhagen。

I was sorry to leave Gothenburg without travelling farther into Sweden; yet I imagine I should only have seen a romantic country thinly inhabited; and these inhabitants struggling with poverty。 The Norwegian peasantry; mostly independent; have a rough kind of frankness in their manner; but the Swedish; rendered more abject by misery; have a degree of politeness in their address which; though it may sometimes border on insincerity; is oftener the effect of a broken spirit; rather softened than degraded by wretchedness。

In Norway there are no notes in circulation of less value than a Swedish rix…dollar。  A small silver coin; commonly not worth more than a penny; and never more than twopence; serves for change; but in Sweden they have notes as low as sixpence。  I never saw any silver pieces there; and could not without difficulty; and giving a premium; obtain the value of a rix…dollar in a large copper coin to give away on the road to the poor who open the gates。

As another proof of the poverty of Sweden; I ought to mention that foreign merchants who have acquired a fortune there are obliged to deposit the sixth part when they leave the kingdom。  This law; you may suppose; is frequently evaded。

In fact; the laws here; as well as in Norway; are so relaxed that they rather favour than restrain knavery。

Whilst I was at Gothenburg; a man who had been confined for breaking open his master's desk and running away with five or six thousand rix…dollars; was only sentenced to forty days' confinement on bread and water; and this slight punishment his relations rendered nugatory by supplying him with more savoury food。

The Swedes are in general attached to their families; yet a divorce may be obtained by either party on proving the infidelity of the other or acknowledging it themselves。  The women do not often recur to this equal privilege; for they either retaliate on their husbands by following their own devices or sink into the merest domestic drudges; worn down by tyranny to servile submission。  Do not term me severe if I add; that after youth is flown the husband becomes a sot; and the wife amuses herself by scolding her servants。  In fact; what is to be expected in any country where taste and cultivation of mind do not supply the place of youthful beauty and animal spirits? Affection requires a firmer foundation than sympathy; and few people have a principle of action sufficiently stable to produce rectitude of feeling; for in spite of all the arguments I have heard to justify deviations from duty; I am persuaded that even the most spontaneous sensations are more under the direction of principle than weak people are willing to allow。

But adieu to moralising。  I have been writing these last sheets at an inn in Elsineur; where I am waiting for horses; and as they are not yet ready; I will give you a short account of my journey from Gothenburg; for I set out the morning after I returned from Trolhaettae。

The country during the first day's journey presented a most barren appearance; as rocky; yet not so picturesque as Norway; because on a diminutive scale。  We stopped to sleep at a tolerable inn in Falckersberg; a decent little town。

The next day beeches and oaks began to grace the prospects; the sea every now and then appearing to give them dignity。  I could not avoid observing also; that even in this part of Sweden; one of the most sterile; as I was informed; there was more ground under cultivation than in Norway。  Plains of varied crops stretched out to a considerable extent; and sloped down to the shore; no longer terrific。  And; as far as I could judge; from glancing my eye over the country as we drove along; agriculture was in a more advanced state; though in the habitations a greater appearance of poverty still remained。  The cottages; indeed; often looked most uncomfortable; but never so miserable as those I had remarked on the road to Stromstad; and the towns were equal; if not superior; to many of the little towns in Wales; or some I have passed through in my way from Calais to Paris。

The inns as we advanced were not to be complained of; unless I had always thought of England。  The people were civil; and much more moderate in their demands than the Norwegians; particularly to the westward; where they boldly charge for what you never had; and seem to consider you; as they do a wreck; if not as lawful prey; yet as a lucky chance; which they ought not to neglect to seize。

The prospect of Elsineur; as we passed the Sound; was pleasant。  I gave three rix…dollars for my boat; including something to drink。  I mention the sum; because they impose on strangers。

Adieu! till I arrive at Copenhagen。



LETTER XVIII。COPENHAGEN。



The distance from Elsineur to Copenhagen is twenty…two miles; the road is very good; over a flat country diversified with wood; mostly beech; and decent mansions。  There appeared to be a great quantity of corn land; and the soil looked much more fertile than it is in general so near the sea。  The rising grounds; indeed; were very few; and around Copenhagen it is a perfect plain; of course has nothing to recommend it but cultivation; not decorations。  If I say that the houses did not disgust me; I tell you all I remember of them; for I cannot recollect any pleasurable sensations they excited; or that any object; produced by nature or art; took me out of myself。  The view of the city; as we drew near; was rather grand; but without any striking feature to interest the imagination; excepting the trees which shade the footpaths。

Just before I reached Copenhagen I saw a number of tents on a wide plain; and supposed that the rage for encampments had reached this city; but I soon discovered that they were the asylum of many of the poor families who had been driven out of their habitations by the lat
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