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ensibility wounded almost to madness。 But enough of this； we will discuss the subject in another state of existence； where truth and justice will reign。 How cruel are the injuries which make us quarrel with human nature！ At present black melancholy hovers round my footsteps； and sorrow sheds a mildew over all the future prospects； which hope no longer gilds。
A rainy morning prevented my enjoying the pleasure the view of a picturesque country would have afforded me； for though this road passed through a country a greater extent of which was under cultivation than I had usually seen here； it nevertheless retained all the wild charms of Norway。 Rocks still enclosed the valleys； the great sides of which enlivened their verdure。 Lakes appeared like branches of the sea； and branches of the sea assumed the appearance of tranquil lakes； whilst streamlets prattled amongst the pebbles and the broken mass of stone which had rolled into them； giving fantastic turns to the trees； the roots of which they bared。
It is not； in fact； surprising that the pine should be often undermined； it shoots its fibres in such a horizontal direction； merely on the surface of the earth； requiring only enough to cover those that cling to the crags。 Nothing proves to me so clearly that it is the air which principally nourishes trees and plants as the flourishing appearance of these pines。 The firs； demanding a deeper soil； are seldom seen in equal health； or so numerous on the barren cliffs。 They take shelter in the crevices； or where； after some revolving ages； the pines have prepared them a footing。
Approaching； or rather descending； to Christiania； though the weather continued a little cloudy； my eyes were charmed with the view of an extensive undulated valley； stretching out under the shelter of a noble amphitheatre of pine…covered mountains。 Farm houses scattered about animated； nay； graced a scene which still retained so much of its native wildness； that the art which appeared seemed so necessary； it was scarcely perceived。 Cattle were grazing in the shaven meadows； and the lively green on their swelling sides contrasted with the ripening corn and rye。 The corn that grew on the slopes had not； indeed； the laughing luxuriance of plenty； which I have seen in more genial climes。 A fresh breeze swept across the grain； parting its slender stalks； but the wheat did not wave its head with its wonted careless dignity； as if nature had crowned it the king of plants。
The view； immediately on the left； as we drove down the mountain； was almost spoilt by the depredations committed on the rocks to make alum。 I do not know the process。 I only saw that the rocks looked red after they had been burnt； and regretted that the operation should leave a quantity of rubbish to introduce an image of human industry in the shape of destruction。 The situation of Christiania is certainly uncommonly fine； and I never saw a bay that so forcibly gave me an idea of a place of safety from the storms of the ocean； all the surrounding objects were beautiful and even grand。 But neither the rocky mountains； nor the woods that graced them； could be compared with the sublime prospects I had seen to the westward； and as for the hills； 〃capped with ETERNAL snow；〃 Mr。 Coxe's description led me to look for them； but they had flown； for I looked vainly around for this noble background。
A few months ago the people of Christiania rose； exasperated by the scarcity and consequent high price of grain。 The immediate cause was the shipping of some； said to be for Moss； but which they suspected was only a pretext to send it out of the country； and I am not sure that they were wrong in their conjecture。 Such are the tricks of trade。 They threw stones at Mr。 Anker； the owner of it； as he rode out of town to escape from their fury； they assembled about his house； and the people demanded afterwards； with so much impetuosity； the liberty of those who were taken up in consequence of the tumult； that the Grand Bailiff thought it prudent to release them without further altercation。
You may think me too severe on commerce； but from the manner it is at present carried on little can be advanced in favour of a pursuit that wears out the most sacred principles of humanity and rectitude。 What is speculation but a species of gambling； I might have said fraud； in which address generally gains the prize？ I was led into these reflections when I heard of some tricks practised by merchants； miscalled reputable； and certainly men of property； during the present war； in which common honesty was violated： damaged goods and provision having been shipped for the express purpose of falling into the hands of the English； who had pledged themselves to reimburse neutral nations for the cargoes they seized； cannon also； sent back as unfit for service； have been shipped as a good speculation； the captain receiving orders to cruise about till he fell in with an English frigate。 Many individuals I believe have suffered by the seizures of their vessels； still I am persuaded that the English Government has been very much imposed upon in the charges made by merchants who contrived to get their ships taken。 This censure is not confined to the Danes。 Adieu； for the present； I must take advantage of a moment of fine weather to walk out and see the town。
At Christiania I met with that polite reception； which rather characterises the progress of manners in the world； than of any particular portion of it。 The first evening of my arrival I supped with some of the most fashionable people of the place； and almost imagined myself in a circle of English ladies； so much did they resemble them in manners； dress； and even in beauty； for the fairest of my countrywomen would not have been sorry to rank with the Grand Bailiff's lady。 There were several pretty girls present； but she outshone them all； and； what interested me still more； I could not avoid observing that in acquiring the easy politeness which distinguishes people of quality； she had preserved her Norwegian simplicity。 There was； in fact； a graceful timidity in her address； inexpressibly charming。 This surprised me a little； because her husband was quite a Frenchman of the ancien regime； or rather a courtier； the same kind of animal in every country。
Here I saw the cloven foot of despotism。 I boasted to you that they had no viceroy in Norway； but these Grand Bailiffs； particularly the superior one； who resides at Christiania； are political monsters of the same species。 Needy sycophants are provided for by their relations and connections at Copenhagen as at other courts。 And though the Norwegians are not in the abject state of the Irish； yet this second…hand government is still felt by their being deprived of several natural advantages to benefit the domineering state。
The Grand Bailiffs are mostly noblemen from Copenhagen； who act as men of common minds will always act in such situationsaping a degree of courtly parade which clashes with the independent character of a magistrate。 Besides； they have a degree of power over the country judges； which some of them； who exercise a jurisdiction truly patriarchal most painfully feel。 I can scarcely say why； my friend； but in this city thoughtfulness seemed to be sliding into melancholy or rather dulness。 The fire of fancy； which had been kept alive in the country； was almost extinguished by reflections on the ills that harass such a large portion of mankind。 I felt like a bird fluttering on the ground unable to mount； yet unwilling to crawl tranquilly like a reptile； whilst still conscious it had wings。
1 walked out； for the open air is always my remedy when an aching head proceeds from an oppressed heart。 Chance directed my steps towards the fortress； and the sight of the slaves； working with chains on their legs； only served to embitter me still more against the regulations of society； which treated knaves in such a different manner； especially as there was a degree of energy in some of their countenances which unavoidably excited my attention； and almost created respect。
I wished to have seen； through an iron grate； the face of a man who has been confined six years for having induced the farmers to revolt against some impositions of the Government。 I could not obtain a clear account of the affair； yet； as the complaint was against some farmers of taxes； I am inclined to believe that it was not totally without foundation。 He must have possessed some eloquence； or have had truth on his side； for the farmers rose by hundreds to support him； and were very much exasperated at his imprisonment； which will probably last for life； though he has sent several very spirited remonstrances to the upper court； which makes the judges so averse to giving a sentence which may be cavilled at； that they take advantage of the glorious uncertainty of the law； to protract a decision which is only to be regulated by reasons of state。
The greater number of the slaves I saw here were not confined for life。 Their labour is not hard； and they work in the open air； which prevents their constitutions from suffering by imprisonment。 Still； as they are allowed to associate together； and boast of their dexterity； not onl