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； if you will allow me to give that name to shivering rocks； to ascertain the fact。
But rain coming on； and the night growing dark； the pilot declared that it would be dangerous for us to attempt to go to the place of our destinationEast Rusoera Norwegian mile and a half further； and we determined to stop for the night at a little haven； some half dozen houses scattered under the curve of a rock。 Though it became darker and darker； our pilot avoided the blind rocks with great dexterity。
It was about ten o'clock when we arrived； and the old hostess quickly prepared me a comfortable beda little too soft or so； but I was weary； and opening the window to admit the sweetest of breezes to fan me to sleep； I sunk into the most luxurious rest： it was more than refreshing。 The hospitable sprites of the grots surely hovered round my pillow； and； if I awoke； it was to listen to the melodious whispering of the wind amongst them； or to feel the mild breath of morn。 Light slumbers produced dreams； where Paradise was before me。 My little cherub was again hiding her face in my bosom。 I heard her sweet cooing beat on my heart from the cliffs； and saw her tiny footsteps on the sands。 New…born hopes seemed； like the rainbow； to appear in the clouds of sorrow； faint； yet sufficient to amuse away despair。
Some refreshing but heavy showers have detained us； and here I am writing quite alonesomething more than gay； for which I want a name。
I could almost fancy myself in Nootka Sound； or on some of the islands on the north…west coast of America。 We entered by a narrow pass through the rocks； which from this abode appear more romantic than you can well imagine； and seal…skins hanging at the door to dry add to the illusion。
It is indeed a corner of the world； but you would be surprised to see the cleanliness and comfort of the dwelling。 The shelves are not only shining with pewter and queen's ware； but some articles in silver； more ponderous； it is true； than elegant。 The linen is good； as well as white。 All the females spin； and there is a loom in the kitchen。 A sort of individual taste appeared in the arrangement of the furniture （this is not the place for imitation） and a kindness in their desire to oblige。 How superior to the apish politeness of the towns！ where the people； affecting to be well bred； fatigue with their endless ceremony。
The mistress is a widow； her daughter is married to a pilot； and has three cows。 They have a little patch of land at about the distance of two English miles； where they make hay for the winter； which they bring home in a boat。 They live here very cheap； getting money from the vessels which stress of weather； or other causes； bring into their harbour。 I suspect； by their furniture； that they smuggle a little。 I can now credit the account of the other houses； which I last night thought exaggerated。
I have been conversing with one of my companions respecting the laws and regulations of Norway。 He is a man within great portion of common sense and heartyes； a warm heart。 This is not the first time I have remarked heart without sentiment； they are distinct。 The former depends on the rectitude of the feelings； on truth of sympathy； these characters have more tenderness than passion； the latter has a higher sourcecall it imagination； genius； or what you will； it is something very different。 I have been laughing with these simple worthy folkto give you one of my half…score Danish wordsand letting as much of my heart flow out in sympathy as they can take。 Adieu！ I must trip up the rocks。 The rain is ever。 Let me catch pleasure on the wingI may be melancholy to…morrow。 Now all my nerves keep time with the melody of nature。 Ah！ let me be happy whilst I can。 The tear starts as I think of it。 I must flee from thought； and find refuge from sorrow in a strong imagination the only solace for a feeling heart。 Phantoms of bliss！ ideal forms of excellence！ again enclose me in your magic circle； and wipe clear from my remembrance the disappointments that reader the sympathy painful； which experience rather increases than damps； by giving the indulgence of feeling the sanction of reason。
Once more farewell！
LETTER XI。
I left Portoer； the little haven I mentioned； soon after I finished my last letter。 The sea was rough； and I perceived that our pilot was right not to venture farther during a hazy night。 We had agreed to pay four dollars for a boat from Helgeraac。 I mention the sum； because they would demand twice as much from a stranger。 I was obliged to pay fifteen for the one I hired at Stromstad。 When we were ready to set out； our boatman offered to return a dollar and let us go in one of the boats of the place； the pilot who lived there being better acquainted with the coast。 He only demanded a dollar and a half； which was reasonable。 I found him a civil and rather intelligent man； he was in the American service several years； during the Revolution。
I soon perceived that an experienced mariner was necessary to guide us； for we were continually obliged to tack about； to avoid the rocks； which； scarcely reaching to the surface of the water； could only be discovered by the breaking of the waves over them。
The view of this wild coast； as we sailed along it； afforded me a continual subject for meditation。 I anticipated the future improvement of the world； and observed how much man has still to do to obtain of the earth all it could yield。 I even carried my speculations so far as to advance a million or two of years to the moment when the earth would perhaps be so perfectly cultivated； and so completely peopled； as to render it necessary to inhabit every spotyes； these bleak shores。 Imagination went still farther； and pictured the state of man when the earth could no longer support him。 Whither was he to flee from universal famine？ Do not smile； I really became distressed for these fellow creatures yet unborn。 The images fastened on me； and the world appeared a vast prison。 I was soon to be in a smaller onefor no other name can I give to Rusoer。 It would be difficult to form an idea of the place； if you have never seen one of these rocky coasts。
We were a considerable time entering amongst the islands； before we saw about two hundred houses crowded together under a very high rockstill higher appearing above。 Talk not of Bastilles！ To be born here was to be bastilled by natureshut out from all that opens the understanding； or enlarges the heart。 Huddled one behind another； not more than a quarter of the dwellings even had a prospect of the sea。 A few planks formed passages from house to house； which you must often scale； mounting steps like a ladder to enter。
The only road across the rocks leads to a habitation sterile enough； you may suppose； when I tell you that the little earth on the adjacent ones was carried there by the late inhabitant。 A path； almost impracticable for a horse； goes on to Arendall； still further to the westward。
I inquired for a walk； and； mounting near two hundred steps made round a rock； walked up and down for about a hundred yards viewing the sea； to which I quickly descended by steps that cheated the declivity。 The ocean and these tremendous bulwarks enclosed me on every side。 I felt the confinement； and wished for wings to reach still loftier cliffs； whose slippery sides no foot was so hardy as to tread。 Yet what was it to see？only a boundless waste of water… …not a glimpse of smiling naturenot a patch of lively green to relieve the aching sight； or vary the objects of meditation。
I felt my breath oppressed； though nothing could be clearer than the atmosphere。 Wandering there alone； I found the solitude desirable； my mind was stored with ideas； which this new scene associated with astonishing rapidity。 But I shuddered at the thought of receiving existence； and remaining here； in the solitude of ignorance； till forced to leave a world of which I had seen so little； for the character of the inhabitants is as uncultivated； if not as picturesquely wild； as their abode。
Having no employment but traffic； of which a contraband trade makes the basis of their profit； the coarsest feelings of honesty are quickly blunted。 You may suppose that I speak in general terms； and that； with all the disadvantages of nature and circumstances； there are still some respectable exceptions； the more praiseworthy； as tricking is a very contagious mental disease； that dries up all the generous juices of the heart。 Nothing genial； in fact； appears around this place； or within the circle of its rocks。 And； now I recollect； it seems to me that the most genial and humane characters I have met with in life were most alive to the sentiments inspired by tranquil country scenes。 What； indeed； is to humanise these beings； who rest shut up （for they seldom even open their windows）； smoking； drinking brandy； and driving bargains？ I have been almost stifled by these smokers。 They begin in the morning； and are rarely without their pipe till they go to bed。 Nothing can be more disgusting than the rooms and men towards the eveningbreath； teeth； clothes； and furniture； all are spoilt。 It is well that the women are not very delicate； or they would only