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been for that rogue； your sarvant； who came like a tief； and
stole away my property； and made her believe I was a taylor； and
that she was going to marry the ninth part of a man： but the
devil burn my soul； if ever I catch him on the mountains of
Tulloghobegly； if I don't shew him that I'm nine times as good a
man as he； or e'er a bug of his country。'
When he had rung out his first alarm； I told him I was sorry he
had allowed himself to be so jockied； but it was no business of
mine； and that the fellow who robbed him of his bride； had
likewise robbed me of my servant 'Didn't I tell you then （cried
he） that Rogue was his true Christian name。 Oh if I had but one
fair trust with him upon the sod； I'd give him lave to brag all
the rest of his life。'
My uncle hearing the noise； came in； and being informed of this
adventure； began to comfort Mr Oneale for the lady's elopement；
observing that he seemed to have had a lucky escape； that it was
better she should elope before； than after marriage The
Hibernian was of a very different opinion。 He said； 'If he had
been once married； she might have eloped as soon as she pleased；
he would have taken care that she should not have carried her
fortune along with her Ah （said he） she's a Judas Iscariot； and
has betrayed me with a kiss； and； like Judas； she carried the
bag； and has not left me money enough to bear my expences back to
London； and so I'm come to this pass； and the rogue that was the
occasion of it has left you without a sarvant； you may put me in
his place； and by Jasus； it is the best thing you can do。' I
begged to be excused； declaring I could put up with any
inconvenience； rather than treat as a footman the descendant of
Tir…Owen the Great。 I advised him to return to his friend； Mr
Cosgrave； and take his passage from Newcastle by sea； towards
which I made him a small present； and he retired； seemingly
resigned to his evil fortune。 I have taken upon trial a
Scotchman； called Archy M'Alpin； an old soldier； whose last
master； a colonel； lately died at Berwick。 The fellow is old and
withered； but he has been recommended to me for his fidelity； by
Mrs Humphreys； a very good sort of a woman； who keeps the inn at
Tweedmouth； and is much respected by all the travellers on this
road。
Clinker； without doubt； thinks himself happy in the removal of a
dangerous rival； and he is too good a Christian； to repine at
Dutton's success。 Even Mrs Jenkins will have reason to
congratulate herself upon this event； when she cooly reflects
upon the matter； for； howsoever she was forced from her poise for
a season； by snares laid for her vanity； Humphry is certainly the
north…star to which the needle of her affection would have
pointed at the long run。 At present； the same vanity is
exceedingly mortified； upon finding herself abandoned by her new
admirer； in favour of another inamorata。 She received the news
with a violent burst of laughter； which soon brought on a fit of
crying； and this gave the finishing blow to the patience of her
mistress； which had held out beyond all expectation。 She now
opened all those floodgates of reprehension； which had been shut
so long。 She not only reproached her with her levity and
indiscretion； but attacked her on the score of religion；
declaring roundly that she was in a state of apostacy and
reprobation； and finally； threatened to send her a packing at
this extremity of the kingdom。 All the family interceded for poor
Winifred； not even excepting her slighted swain； Mr Clinker； who；
on his knees； implored and obtained her pardon。
There was； however； another consideration that gave Mrs Tabitha
some disturbance。 At Newcastle； the servants had been informed by
some wag； that there was nothing to eat in Scotland； but oat…meal
and sheep's…heads； and lieutenant Lismahago being consulted； what
he said served rather to confirm than to refute the report。 Our
aunt being apprised of this circumstance； very gravely
advised her brother to provide a sumpter horse with store of
hams； tongues； bread； biscuit； and other articles for our
subsistence； in the course of our peregrination； and Mr Bramble
as gravely replied； that he would take the hint into
consideration： but； finding no such provision was made； she now
revived the proposal； observing that there was a tolerable market
at Berwick； where we might be supplied； and that my man's horse
would serve as a beast of burthen The 'squire； shrugging his
shoulders； eyed her askance with a look of ineffable contempt：
and； after some pause； 'Sister （said he）； I can hardly persuade
myself you are serious。' She was so little acquainted with the
geography of the island； that she imagined we could not go to
Scotland but by sea； and； after we had passed through the town of
Berwick； when he told her we were upon Scottish ground； she could
hardly believe the assertion If the truth must be told； the
South Britons in general are woefully ignorant in this
particular。 What； between want of curiosity； and traditional
sarcasms； the effect of ancient animosity； the people at the
other end of the island know as little of Scotland as of Japan。
If I had never been in Wales； I should have been more struck with
the manifest difference in appearance betwixt the peasants and
commonalty on different sides of the Tweed。 The boors of
Northumberland are lusty fellows； fresh complexioned； cleanly；
and well cloathed； but the labourers in Scotland are generally
lank； lean； hard…featured； sallow； soiled； and shabby； and their
little pinched blue caps have a beggarly effect。 The cattle are
much in the same stile with their drivers； meagre； stunted； and
ill equipt。 When I talked to my uncle on this subject； he said；
'Though all the Scottish hinds would not bear to be compared with
those of the rich counties of South Britain； they would stand
very well in competition with the peasants of France； Italy； and
Savoy not to mention the mountaineers of Wales； and the red…shanks
of Ireland。'
We entered Scotland by a frightful moor of sixteen miles； which
promises very little for the interior parts of the kingdom； but
the prospect mended as we advanced。 Passing through Dunbar； which
is a neat little town； situated on the sea…side； we lay at a
country inn； where our entertainment far exceeded our
expectation； but for this we cannot give the Scots credit； as the
landlord is a native of England。 Yesterday we dined at
Haddington； which has been a place of some consideration； but is
now gone to decay； and in the evening arrived at this metropolis；
of which I can say very little。 It is very romantic； from its
situation on the declivity of a hill； having a fortified castle
at the top； and a royal palace at the bottom。 The first thing
that strikes the nose of a stranger； shall be nameless； but what
first strikes the eye； is the unconscionable height of the
houses； which generally rise to five； six； seven； and eight
stories； and； in some places （as I am assured）； to twelve。 This
manner of building； attended with numberless inconveniences； must
have been originally owing to want of room。 Certain it is； the
town seems to be full of people： but their looks； their language；
and their customs； are so different from ours； that I can hardly
believe myself in Great…Britain。
The inn at which we put up （if it may be so called） was so filthy
and disagreeable in all respects； that my uncle began to fret；
and his gouty symptoms to recur Recollecting； however； that he
had a letter of recommendation to one Mr Mitchelson； a lawyer； he
sent it by his servant； with a compliment； importing that we
would wait upon him next day in person； but that gentleman
visited us immediately； and insisted upon our going to his own
house； until he could provide lodgings for our accommodation。 We
gladly accepted； of his invitation； and repaired to his house；
where we were treated with equal elegance and hospitality； to the
utter confusion of our aunt； whose prejudices； though beginning
to give way； were not yet entirely removed。 To…day； by the
assistance of our friend； we are settled in convenient lodgings；
up four pair of stairs； in the High…street； the fourth story
being； in this city； reckoned more genteel than the first。 The
air is； in all probability； the better； but it requires good
lungs to breathe it at this distance above the surface of the
earth。 While I do remain above it； whether higher or lower；
provided I breathe at all；
I shall ever be；
Dear Phillips； yours；
J。 MELFORD
July 18。
To Dr LEWIS。
DEAR LEWIS；
That part of Scotland contiguous to Berwick； nature seems to have
intended as a barrier between two hostile nations。 It is a brown
desert of considerable extent； that produces nothing but heath
and fern； and what rendered it the more dreary when we passed；
there was a thick fog that hindered us from seeing above twenty
yards from the carriage My sister began to make wry faces； and
use her smelling…bottle； Liddy looked blank； and Mrs Jenkins
dejected； but in a few hours these clouds were dissipated； the
sea appeared upon our right； and on the left the mountains
retired a little； leaving an agreeable plain betwixt them and the
beach； bu