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their own sex； and they and the female bathers have a dress of
flannel for the sea； nay； they are provided with other
conveniences for the support of decorum。 A certain number of the
machines are fitted with tilts； that project from the sea…ward
ends of them； so as to screen the bathers from the view of all
persons whatsoever The beach is admirably adapted for this
practice； the descent being gently gradual； and the sand soft as
velvet； but then the machines can be used only at a certain time
of the tide； which varies every day； so that sometimes the
bathers are obliged to rise very early in the morning For my
part； I love swimming as an exercise； and can enjoy it at all
times of the tide； without the formality of an apparatus You and
I have often plunged together into the Isis； but the sea is a
much more noble bath； for health as well as pleasure。 You cannot
conceive what a flow of spirits it gives； and how it braces every
sinew of the human frame。 Were I to enumerate half the diseases
which are every day cured by sea…bathing； you might justly say
you had received a treatise； instead of a letter； from
Your affectionate friend
and servant；
J。 MELFORD
SCARBOROUGH； July 1。
To Dr LEWIS。
I have not found all the benefit I expected at Scarborough； where
I have been these eight days From Harrigate we came hither by
the way of York； where we stayed only one day to visit the
Castle； the Minster and the Assembly…room。 The first； which was
heretofore a fortress； is now converted to a prison； and is the
best； in all respects； I ever saw； at home or abroad It stands
in a high situation； extremely well ventilated； and has a
spacious area within the walls； for the health and convenience of
all the prisoners except those whom it is necessary to secure in
close confinement。 Even these last have all the comforts that the
nature of their situation can admit。 Here the assizes are held；
in a range of buildings erected for that purpose。
As for the Minster； I know not how to distinguish it； except by
its great size and the height of its spire； from those other
ancient churches in different parts of the kingdom； which used to
be called monuments of Gothic architecture； but it is now agreed；
that this stile is Saracen rather than Gothic； and； I suppose； it
was first imported into England from Spain； great part of which
was under the dominion of the Moors。 Those British architects who
adopted this stile； don't seem to have considered the propriety
of their adoption。 The climate of the country； possessed by the
Moors or Saracens； both in Africa and Spain； was so exceedingly
hot and dry； that those who built places of worship for the
multitude； employed their talents in contriving edifices that
should be cool； and； for this purpose； nothing could be better
adopted than those buildings； vast； narrow； dark； and lofty；
impervious to the sun…beams； and having little communication with
the scorched external atmosphere； but ever affording a refreshing
coolness； like subterranean cellars in the heats of summer； or
natural caverns in the bowels of huge mountains。 But nothing
could be more preposterous； than to imitate such a mode of
architecture in a country like England； where the climate is
cold； and the air eternally loaded with vapours； and where； of
consequence； the builder's intention should be to keep the people
dry and warm For my part； I never entered the Abbey church at
Bath but once； and the moment I stept over the threshold； I found
myself chilled to the very marrow of my bones。 When we consider；
that in our churches； in general； we breathe a gross stagnated
air； surcharged with damps from vaults； tombs； and charnel…houses；
may we not term them so many magazines of rheums； created
for the benefit of the medical faculty？ and safely aver； that
more bodies are lost； than souls saved； by going to church； in
the winter especially； which may be said to engross eight months
in the year。 I should be glad to know； what offence it would give
to tender consciences； if the house of God was made more
comfortable； or less dangerous to the health of valetudinarians；
and whether it would not be an encouragement to piety； as well as
the salvation of many lives； if the place of worship was well
floored； wainscotted； warmed； and ventilated； and its area kept
sacred from the pollution of the dead。 The practice of burying in
churches was the effect of ignorant superstition； influenced by
knavish priests； who pretended that the devil could have no power
over the defunct if he was interred in holy ground； and this
indeed； is the only reason that can be given for consecrating all
cemeteries； even at this day。
The external appearance of an old cathedral cannot be but
displeasing to the eye of every man； who has any idea of
propriety or proportion； even though he may be ignorant of
architecture as a science； and the long slender spire puts one in
mind of a criminal impaled with a sharp stake rising up through
his shoulder These towers； or steeples； were likewise borrowed
from the Mahometans； who； having no bells； used such minarets for
the purpose of calling the people to prayers They may be of
further use； however； for making observations and signals； but I
would vote for their being distinct from the body of the church；
because they serve only to make the pile more barbarous； or
Saracenical。
There is nothing of this Arabic architecture in the Assembly
Room； which seems to me to have been built upon a design of
Palladio； and might be converted into an elegant place of
worship； but it is indifferently contrived for that sort of
idolatry which is performed in it at present： the grandeur of the
fane gives a diminutive effect to the little painted divinities
that are adorned in it； and the company； on a ball…night； must
look like an assembly of fantastic fairies； revelling by
moonlight among the columns of a Grecian temple。
Scarborough seems to be falling off； in point of reputation。 All
these places （Bath excepted） have their vogue； and then the
fashion changes。 I am persuaded； there are fifty spaws in England
as efficacious and salutary as that of Scarborough； though they
have not yet risen to fame； and； perhaps； never will； unless some
medical encomiast should find an interest in displaying their
virtues to the public view Be that as it may； recourse will
always be had to this place for the convenience of sea bathing；
while this practice prevails； but it were to be wished； they
would make the beach more accessible to invalids。
I have here met with my old acquaintance； H＇ewet＇t； whom you have
often heard me mention as one of the most original characters
upon earth I first knew him at Venice； and afterwards saw him in
different parts of Italy； where he was well known by the nick…name
of Cavallo Bianco； from his appearing always mounted on a
pale horse； like Death in the Revelations。 You must remember the
account I once gave you of a curious dispute he had at
Constantinople； with a couple of Turks； in defence of the
Christian religion； a dispute from which he acquired the epithet
of Demonstrator The truth is； H owns no religion but that of
nature； but； on this occasion； he was stimulated to shew his
parts； for the honour of his country Some years ago； being in
the Campidoglio at Rome； he made up to the bust of Jupiter； and；
bowing very low； exclaimed in the Italian language； 'I hope； sir；
if ever you get your head above water again； you will remember
that I paid my respects to you in your adversity。' This sally was
reported to the cardinal Camerlengo； and by him laid before pope
Benedict XIV； who could not help laughing at the extravagance of
the address； and said to the cardinal； 'Those English heretics
think they have a right to go to the devil in their own way。'
Indeed H was the only Englishman I ever knew； who had
resolution enough to live in his own way； in the midst of
foreigners； for； neither in dress； diet； customs； or
conversation； did he deviate one tittle from the manner in which
he had been brought up。 About twelve years ago； he began a Giro
or circuit； which he thus performed At Naples； where he fixed
his headquarters； he embarked for Marseilles； from whence he
travelled with a Voiturin to Antibes There he took his passage
to Genoa and Lerici； from which last place he proceeded； by the
way of Cambratina； to Pisa and Florence After having halted some
time in this metropolis； he set out with a Vetturino for Rome；
where he reposed himself a few weeks； and then continued his
route for Naples； in order to wait for the next opportunity of
embarkation After having twelve times described this circle； he
lately flew off at a tangent to visit some trees at his country…house
in England； which he had planted above twenty years ago；
after the plan of the double colonnade in the piazza of St
Peter's at Rome He came hither to Scarborough； to pay his
respects to his noble friend and former pupil； the M of G；
and； forgetting that he is now turned of seventy； sacrificed so
liberally to Bacchus； that next day he was seized with a fit of
the apoplexy； which has a little impaired his memory； but he
retains al