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rter may be dealt with； preferably by making him talk about himself； which is a subject far more interesting to him than you are； or he may be persuaded to tell you about the last person or subject upon which he has had to report。 Thus； on a subsequent occasion； a reporter came on board the ship to see me before she reached her berth。 Early as it was in the morning； he had already been about his paper’s business； attending the electrocution of two men in a prison！ The sight had impressed even his hardy nerves sufficiently to make him talk a great deal about it； describing all its details。 Therefore I was called upon to furnish him with but little information about myself； though probably this was not a fact that weighed on him when it came to the writing of the interview。
Another man； who caught me in a railway train； grew so interested in talking of his own affairs that he never noticed that the train had started till it iles an hour。 Then with a yell he rushed down the carriage and leapt out into the night。 I have always wondered whether he was killed or only broke his leg。
There is nothing that an American reporter will not do to attain his ends。 For instance； I have known them to break into my room at midnight when I was in bed。
Once； when I was in America as a missioner； the reporter of a great paper did his best to make me express opinions on some important matter connected with the internal policy of the United States。 Naturally I declined； but this did not prevent my alleged vie appearing everywhere。 Then followed leading articles in some of the best papers gravely lecturing me and pointing out how improper it was that one who had been received with so much courtesy； and who occupied a diplomatic position； should publicly intervene in the domestic affairs of the country to which he had been sent by his Government。 A famous ic journal； also； published a cartoon of me in a pulpit engaged in lecturing the American people。
Needless to say； I was extremely annoyed； but of redress I could obtain none。 Contradiction where the country is so vast and newspapers are so many is hopeless。 However； when I was leaving New York another representative of the same great paper came to interview me on the steamer； and to him I expressed my feelings。 He listened； then replied； with a somewhat sickly smile； “Very annoying； Mr。 Haggard； but I guess it would be scarcely loyal of me to give our man away； would it？”
Nothing could exceed the kindness with which we were received in the United States — even the reporters were kind till it came to cold print。 Really I think that Americans are the most hospitable people in the world。 I will go further and say that nobody is so nice or sympathetic or broad…minded or desirous of all good as a really first…class American； man or woman。 I remember that on the occasion of this visit we were quite glad to escape from New York； where literally we were being killed with kindness。 To feast with some hospitable host at every meal； from breakfast till a midnight supper； after a week or so bees more than the human frame can bear。
From New York we went to the beautiful city of New Orleans； where also we were widely entertained。 One dinner…party I shall never forget。 Upon each napkin lay a little poem anent something I had written。 For instance； here is one which evidently refers to “The World’s Desire”：
Upon thy breast the “bleeding Star” of love；
？Etherealised； and freed from serpent taint；
Is all afire； O burnished dove！
？For whom men fail and faint！
Moreover in the middle of dinner someone — I think it was our hostess — rose and read a poem at me。 Though very kindly meant； it was really most embarrassing； especially as I had no poem ready with which to reply。
In New Orleans； amongst other places of much interest； I was shown a park in which duels used to be fought in the early days； and a graveyard where； because of the water in the soil； the dead are buried in niches in the surrounding walls。
Leaving that most hospitable city； we travelled on to El Paso； then quite a small town on the Mexican border。 I remember that on the train I fell into conversation with a gentleman who； much to my astonishment； informed me that in the future we should telegraph through the air without the use of any connecting wires； and furnished me with the details of how this would be done。 At the time I confess it occurred to me that he was amusing himself by gammoning a stranger who was known to write romances。 Now； however； I see that at the mencement of the year 1891 there was at any rate one person who was very well acquainted with the system of wireless telegraphy which is now identified with the name of Mr。 Marconi； then a lad of sixteen years of age。
There were at this time two railway lines running from the States to Mexico City； and I recollect that we hesitated long by which of them we should travel。 Our choice was fortunate； since the train which left on the same day by the other line met with many adventures。 Amongst other things it was twice thrown off the rails by intelligent Mexicans actuated either by spite or the hope of plunder； and some of its occupants were killed。 Mexico； even in those days； was a wonderful city of almost Parisian appearance； but I confess that what interested me more than its tramways and fine modern buildings were such relics of old Mexico as could be seen in the museum and elsewhere； and the mighty volcano of Popocatepetl； which the Aztecs feared and worshipped； towering to the skies。 The cathedral also； built by the early Spanish conquerors； is a remarkable church； though； owing to the rarity of the air at that height above sea…level； I should not remend any visitor who has doubts as to the condition of his heart to follow our example and climb to the top of its tower。
I think I mentioned that the original cause of my visit to Mexico was the tale of a certain treasure which appealed to all my romantic instincts。 This was the story so far as I can recollect it。
In Mexico Mr。 Jebb knew a certain Cuban named Don Anselmo。 This man； who was a geologist； was prying about on the farther shore of Lake Tezcuco； when a Mexican emerged from some bushes and remarked that he saw that Anselmo knew the secret which he thought belonged to himself alone。 Anselmo； being no fool； pumped him； and out came the story。 It appears than an aged cacique confided to the Mexican the plans and inventory of that portion of the treasure of the Aztecs which was recaptured from the Spaniards in the disaster of the Noche triste。 This inventory set out a list of eighteen large jars of gold； either in the form of ornaments or dust； several jars full of precious stones； much arms and armour； also of gold； and lastly a great golden head more than life…size； being a portrait of the Emperor Montezuma。 The plan showed where and how all this wealth had been disposed of in a pit sixty feet deep； at the bottom of which was a great rock covered with Aztec writing。 The mouth of this pit was on the land where Anselmo was pursuing his geological researches； and marked by two ancient trees planted near to it by the Aztecs when they buried the treasure。
The only stipulation made by the old cacique when he revealed the secret； which came straight down to him from his forefather who had helped Guatemoc to bury the treasure； was that it should never be given up to Government or to any Spaniard。
Needless to say； the Mexican and Don Anselmo entered into a partnership。 Anselmo tried to raise funds to buy the property。 Failing in this； he got the leave of the proprietor to prospect for sulphur； and； with some others； began to dig at the spot indicated on the plan。 All went well。 The Mexican kept away native loungers by announcing that devils dwelt in the hole。 The pit was cleared out； and at the depth of sixty feet was found the great stone； on which was cut an owl； the crest or totem mark of Guatemoc。 Unfortunately； just at this time the excavators were advised that the property had been sold to a new owner； who was ing to inspect it。 All night long they worked furiously at the stone； which at last they destroyed with dynamite。 A tunnel was revealed beyond； running at right angles into the side of the hill； till some steps were reached that mounted upwards。 On one of these steps lay the copper head of a spear。 At the top of them； however； was a very solid wall of some hard material which had been fused by heat。
The excavators retreated； baffled by the lack of time and this imperable wall。 They filled in the shaft； hurling down it the boles of the two trees that Guatemoc had planted； and ran before the new owner arrived； announcing that they had found no sulphur。
Ultimately Anselmo approached Mr。 Jebb； who was known to have influence with the member； or ex…member； of the Government who had acquired the property。 From him Jebb obtained permission to dig for antiquities on his estate。 I remember the arrival of the formal letter of leave； but not what stipulations were made as to the disposal of any articles that might be found。 Full of hope that it would fall to our lot to discover the golden head of Montezuma and the jars of treasure and of jewels； with the help of Senor Anselmo we were making our preparations once more to clear